2000 XLT (AWD) grinding with new front axles. ( I searched but... read)

[burnsl]

I did i really did...

I know many POSSIBLE reasons now..
Wheel bearings, transfer case problem, (Which im unsure)...

I bought this truck without any axels in the front.
The ends were installed to keep leaks and bad bearings from happening.

I JUST installed NEW complete CV axels.

I began to roll out of the garage and I was all excited to go driving, but..
NOOOoOooOoOoooooo..

I cant do this.
It's too loud.

SOMETHINGS wrong.

In the searches, i read that...
The CV joints are dry..
It cant be the axels are "dry" they were pre-assembled, ready to go.

Also I heard that the transfer case shouldn't be run without axels becuase that will slip the case so bad that it will grind itself to a pulp.

Okay, is that TRUE for a 2000 Explorer XLT?!!

What about a Range Shifter?
(I dont have controls for 4WD, its AWD)

Does this still apply?

I would LOVE to SPEAK with a knowledgeable person tonight.
I can give my number or you can give me yours in a PM.

Can anyone help me before i jsut revert this to axel ends and give up?

I can and will put in a transfer case if i must.

i Just need to know what to do....

 

[IZwack]

A few basic questions to start off with so that we're all on the same page here:

1) Which engine do you have? (v6 or v8)
2) When you purchased this new front axle, did you make sure its the same gear ratio as the rear axle?

 

[burnsl]

Oops,
sorry, freshman move there.


It's a V8.

I bought TWO front CV joints.
They are the ones the exit the transfer case and go to the wheels.

There was only one kind listed and those were the ones I bought.

Does that clear up things correctly?

Also it's worth noting that I own the Factory service manuals.
(I wouldnt have a car without them)

Does it hurt to run a 2000 V8 AWD XLT without front axels like wsa done before i bouthg it?

Is that what has damaged things?

What could be the cause of my grinding.

I am jacking this truck back into the air to remove them again.
I have no choice if i am to have a car.

(Unless someone want o let me call them and have a conversation faster than a series of forum posts.)

Which i invite.
I will call, to save LD charges.

 

[burnsl]

I know i said i searched....

Everywhere EXCEPT UNDER THE TRUCK!!!!!!!!

Okay heres the deal.

I have NO fron drive shaft.
I have a WHOLLY SCREWED Front Differential.
...its all messed up inside.

I need:
A front drive shaft.
A new / replacement front diff.

I live in Lawrenceville GA.
I would LOVE to get these things in the next 24 hours.

If I can, I will leave the truck intact.
If not, I will remove the cv joints in a couple hours.

If someone can help me get this together, then that would be perfect.

I dont need a transfer case, so i guess thats good...

 

[MountaineerGreen]

The front diff is cake to replace- you need a 3.73 front differential, driveshaft and save those cv's. However, the odds of coming up with that locally on a weekend are slim to none. Click the "my writeups" link in my signature- I've done how to's on the whole front end of these.

 

[burnsl]

axels are out....

i will check your links!!!!!

 

[burnsl]

What year "Carriers" (as car-part.com calls them) are compatible?

1999?

earlier? later?

what year range should I be looking for?

 

[IZwack]

Okay well I'm confused. I think we need to go over exactly what is what.

This is the front "axle center section". When people say the "front axle", they commonly refer to this part:

This is an "axle shaft" with CV joints on them:

This is a "carrier":

Now, did you swap in a new axle center section? Or axle shafts?

If you swapped in a new axle, it must be the same gear ratio as the rear axle or else the drivetrain will destroy itself with every rotation. And no you can not just swap in a new carrier because gears have to be "set" and swapping a "loaded" carrier (with the "ring" gear) into another axle housing will not work. You can however swap in a new "loaded" (with the internals like the ring and pinion gears) "axle center section" of the same gear ratio.

 

[burnsl]

Okay, well, i put in front axel shafts.

I need a replacement "front axle center section".

I also need the driveshaft that connects that to the transfer case, AND the bolts that bolt it to the front axel section and the transfer case.

 

[Turdle]

I was calling the "front axle center section" a front diffy.

You need one. Used should be fine, as long as you replace the seals

You need the 6 small torx headed screws and 3 metal " brackets" for the front drive shaft to transfer case flange

you need 4 bolts and 2 u joint clamps for the front yoke ( these can be from a v6 or v8 model)

You need a front drive shaft

the front drive shaft should be from a 99 up AWD v8
as should all hardware. The v6 4wd uses different hardware.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

^^ What he said. I'd call a salvage yard, but you'll likely need a "new" driveshaft from a parts store, AWD driveshafts are in short supply on the used end.

We have a vendor that can help with the driveshaft- http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213226

 

[burnsl]

I sent him an email and have sent emails off to various vendors on car-part.com.


So, to verify, i need 1999 or newer parts.

Anything above 1999 for the shaft? Diff?

 

[IZwack]

If you're ABSOLUTELY sure you need a front axle center section (as in you're 100% sure its not the transfer case), then first find out what gear ratio you need before you start shopping.

If you're not sure its the front axle center section, then drop the front axle center section and inspect the internals (remove the differential cover). I'd just hate to see you to throw hundreds of dollars into a new front axle section and find out its actually the transfer case thats causing the headaches.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I suspect that if he put the cv axles in as he said with no front driveshaft, the front differential is indeed a gonner.

If the rest of the truck is unchanged- the factory ratio is 3.73 in all AWD's.

There is no guarantee that once the front diff is replaced the case won't be bad. You need to be prepared for this.

The front diff should work from most any 97+ truck, the driveshaft is the only thing unique 99 and up. 3.73 is a common ratio, jtsmith or I usually have a spare laying around, but we recently sold them all.

 

[gijoecam]

If you're ABSOLUTELY sure you need a front axle center section (as in you're 100% sure its not the transfer case), then first find out what gear ratio you need before you start shopping.

If you're not sure its the front axle center section, then drop the front axle center section and inspect the internals (remove the differential cover). I'd just hate to see you to throw hundreds of dollars into a new front axle section and find out its actually the transfer case thats causing the headaches.

Without the front driveshaft, I doubt it was the t-case causing the noise. It sounds like the previous owner stripped the front drivetrain after the front diff went bad.

I suspect that if he put the cv axles in as he said with no front driveshaft, the front differential is indeed a gonner.

If the rest of the truck is unchanged- the factory ratio is 3.73 in all AWD's.

There is no guarantee that once the front diff is replaced the case won't be bad. You need to be prepared for this.

The front diff should work from most any 97+ truck, the driveshaft is the only thing unique 99 and up. 3.73 is a common ratio, jtsmith or I usually have a spare laying around, but we recently sold them all.

Ditto.... You'll need a new front axle, front driveshaft (from an AWD V-8... V-6 front shaft is different), and possible a replacement transfer case before it's all over and done. Depending on how long the t-case ran without the front driveshaft, it may have locked itself. If the truck doesn't creep downhill when it's parked on an incline, I'd wager to say that the viscous coupling inside the transfer case is shot too. (It'll buck when turning a tight corner due to the driveline binding). If it corners smooth in a parking lot, it may have survived.

Good luck!

 

[IZwack]

I suspect that if he put the cv axles in as he said with no front driveshaft, the front differential is indeed a gonner.

Woops! I missed that part.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Not be all commercial and hijack the thread, but I have a 3.73 front center section for sale, PM me your zipcode and I could get you a quote...It'd be cheap... I want it gone!

 

[burnsl]

I sent you my zip.

Okay, so, what i'm gathering here is that the transfer case could be shot too EVEN THOUGH i'm driving it every day?

I did slide back to the case and try to rotate the output flange.
It moved VERY little.

I was trying to do an impromptu inspection of it for functionality per an erlier post.

I got about 1/16th - 1/8th inch rotation out of it.
I was checking for a slack drive chain (Per the earlier post).

Here the latest poster suggested that the viscous coupling slipped all the time.
Does that mean there is no chain drive?

How can i conclusively check this transfer case with the minimum of effort?

 

[gijoecam]

I sent you my zip.

Okay, so, what i'm gathering here is that the transfer case could be shot too EVEN THOUGH i'm driving it every day?

I did slide back to the case and try to rotate the output flange.
It moved VERY little.

I was trying to do an impromptu inspection of it for functionality per an erlier post.

I got about 1/16th - 1/8th inch rotation out of it.
I was checking for a slack drive chain (Per the earlier post).

Here the latest poster suggested that the viscous coupling slipped all the time.
Does that mean there is no chain drive?

How can i conclusively check this transfer case with the minimum of effort?

There is a chain drive... From the VC hub to the front output.

The VC fits into the system between the front and rear outputs, essentially. The quick and dirty test would be to park it on an incline, wait 10-15 minutes, and see if it creeps down the hill. If it doesn't creep, it's locked. Forcing it to slip by reinstalling the front drivetrain components may have it working again, or it may be too far gone to survive. There's no easy way to know ahead of time.

There may be some more analytical test to check the VC function, but I'm not aware of it.

For more info on the setup, with some good pics, check out this thread:
Link

-Joe

 

[burnsl]

Okay, I'll check this.

Now, if I still install all this, and then try to drive, if the T.C. -IS- locked, could I destroy my ability to put the truck back in service by removing the front driveshaft to isolate the front again?

i.e. Would it destroy the Transfer Case and make the car undrivable?