Just replaced the Blend Door Actuator on my Gen IV

[ctmsports]

No Problem,

Part number on ford invoice listed as 1L2Z*19E616*CA

Fordparts.com has it listed as 19E616 (YH-1744) $81.69

Good Luck
Rich

 

[rgoltsch]

To all who have posted about this issue before, thank you. I followed the instructions on my wife's 2006 Explorer and replaced her blend door actuator today. It took me about 45 minutes.

Heat now works. I got rid of two noises with this one repair.....the click, click, click sound from the car, and the whining from my wife and daughter that the truck is cold.

For anyone interested, I bought my part on Amazon. It was just $46.23 plus shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A2D4NY

Thanks again......
Ron

 

[beauj2000]

blend door actuator

FYI:

Just replaced the Blend Door actuator on my 2007 Explorer XLT! This was a very simple Job. Can't thank the forum enough for all the info before attempting. Bought the OEM part for $80.00. Removed Left lower panel cover, panel cover and bracket below steering wheel assy, 3 screws, one plug and done. 1/2 hour to 45 minutes, Done!

Thanks
Rich

I have no heat but I also do not hear any clicking noises from the actuator when I go from cold to hot on the control knobs. Do I have a different issue altogether for not getting heat? Both heater core hoses run hot so I must be getting coolant to the heater core.
Thanks
Jack

 

[beauj2000]

blend door actuator

FYI:

Just replaced the Blend Door actuator on my 2007 Explorer XLT! This was a very simple Job. Can't thank the forum enough for all the info before attempting. Bought the OEM part for $80.00. Removed Left lower panel cover, panel cover and bracket below steering wheel assy, 3 screws, one plug and done. 1/2 hour to 45 minutes, Done!

Thanks
Rich

I have no heat but I also do not hear any clicking noises from the actuator when I go from cold to hot on the control knobs. Do I have a different issue altogether for not getting heat? Both heater core hoses run hot so I must be getting coolant to the heater core.
Thanks
Jack

 

[Melodys]

I'm a teacher, not a mechanic, but I've taught several mechanics! This forum encouraged me to replace the actuator myself. Photos, and the fact that I wasn't about to pay $55 an hour for someone to keep my truck 2 days for a 1 or 2-hour job, also had a lot to do with my decision! My mechanic brother wouldn't even touch the job. My '05 Explorer was easier to work on than the instructione/photos indicated, as it turned out; but I wouldn't want to do it every month! So thank you for your assistance in my first experience with the actuator, and for your encouragement to do it myself! NOW--WHY DON'T I HAVE HEAT? What I did discover during the process of locating the actuator before I got on this forum may be the problem. I took the stereo out and saw something silver to the left and almost up against the dash/windshield. It's about a half-inch wide, really thin, 3 inches long, apparently a piece that connects to something else; local parts stores are of no help. When I reached back there and put my finger on the part, a black plastic part fell out of it. I have that piece, but the silver metal piece is still in there; the parts store said it appeared to have broken off of something else. What's up in the dash that fits this description? I just know it's related to the problem of no heat in my '05 XLT Explorer. It's gettin' cold, y'all, and I need help ASAP. THANKS!!! You're GREAT!

 

[edwx]

Are you confident that you put the correct blend door in? There are lots of choices, stock and aftermarket. I would verify that first.

 

[caferacer]

No Problem,

Part number on ford invoice listed as 1L2Z*19E616*CA

Fordparts.com has it listed as 19E616 (YH-1744) $81.69

Good Luck
Rich

Now I'm really confused because fordparts.com lists this as manual a/c but not overhead aux. They have two listed for overhead aux. One with a "d" shaped shaft and one with a cross shaped shaft. These are all listed for my vin.

Robey in Brooklyn

 

[beauj2000]

I have no heat but I also do not hear any clicking noises from the actuator when I go from cold to hot on the control knobs. Do I have a different issue altogether for not getting heat? Both heater core hoses run hot so I must be getting coolant to the heater core.
Thanks
Jack

Well its fixed. I unbolted the actuator but left it plugged in. I tried turning the cold/hot control knob and got no movement or sound from the actuator. I took it apart and tested the motor and it was dead. I couldn't find the exact same motor so I bought a new motorcraft actuator for $57 with no taxes and free shipping. Iplugged it in, turned the knob and voila, movement. Made sure the settings were right and bolted it in, buttoned it up and now I have heat, sweet!

 

[edwx]

caferacer.............one thing you can do is remove the actuator and look at the shape of the shaft.

 

[Melodys]

I replaced the actuator--learning time: 4 hours; job time: 1 hour! THANKS to the excellent photos Rhondo posted in the forum--no doubt, an article for the books! NOW, I have a really loud click, and the actuator seems to be the problem. It sounds as if it's "hung" and can't move the door inside. Any advice anybody? ...it's getting cold outside, still no heat!

 

[Melodys]

In fact, I took the part back to O'Reilly, as it WAS the wrong one. According to their computer it was right; not so. The kid helping me took a guess and pulled out the right one--with a different number, listed for a Ranger in a different year. It was an exact match. (The first one had a little short shaft on it, as well as other issues.) I will keep the box for future reference.... BTW, the guy before me reinstalled with only the bottom 2 screws; I think he did me a favor by making it easier for me this time, as it worked fine for just over 2 years with only 2 screws, longer than the factory actuator did.

 

[caferacer]

Heat glorious heat! Thank you to everyone. Followed the instructions above, then removed the old actuator to determine it was the "cross" type post, part #19E616A. Premier Ford in Brooklyn had just gotten them in this morning as they are in demand this time of year. They charged me $88 for it but I'm not complaining.

If you never work on your car, every tool you need, 7MM and 8MM sockets, 6" extender, 1/4" and 3/8" drives, and adaptor are all available in a $30 set of cheap tools that Pep Boys is selling as Christmas gifts. I had the tools already but others might not. The best part is that the a-holes at Manhattan Ford who completely screwed me last year did not get a dime of my money. Actually, the best part is that my wife is so impressed and happy to have heat that she said she might sex me up tonight!

One last trick, wedge the screw with a sliver of paper in the socket at the end of the extender to keep it from falling out when replacing the top screw.

 

[edwx]

Way to go! DIY car repair with perks!!

 

[rgoltsch]

As a followup to my post a month or so ago.....The wife's Explorer is still putting out glorious heat every morning. No clicks or anything. Thanks for everyone's help.

Now I need to research the damn ABS, Wrench and Anti-Skid light triple play.......

 

[edwx]

rgoltsch......the 3 lights together probably indicate a cracked ABS tone ring!! I let the dealer fix mine.........about 3 bills.

 

[pjw73nh]

Ok, anyone familiar with what part I should get? I have an 06 limited with the dual zone. Rock auto is giving me 3 options, damper door switch (vacuum selector) part YH1522, blend door actuator with automatic temperature control part YH1759, and blend door actuator with Aux A/C & heater; air distribution mode door; with cross-shaped shaft

I am guessing I would jut order the 1st one which is the damper door switch since the door is the problem, not the actuator, but that's just a guess

Seannydeez, nice to see a fellow New-Englander here. Did you by any chance ever find out the deal with the Dual Zone actuator replacement?

I've got an 08 LTD with both Dual zone AND Rear controls. I haven't had the clicking yet, but after reading the Gen 3 posts I was dreading it. Now to find that they have re-engineered the heater box for easier access, I am somewhat relieved.

My questions are: Is this procedure just as easy with my dual and rear control unit as with the other gen 4's?

Thanks.

p..../NH

 

[EX-SV]

My dealer heard some squeaking for my blend doors on 07 Eddie Bauer and smelled money. They quoted me a price of $500, I declined.

Other than some squeaking sometimes on very cold mornings, climate control/dual controls works great. Should I consider these symtoms as impending doom....?

 

[edwx]

No need to dread anything....it's an easy fix. If something breaks, you want it to be this. I'd put one in every 6 months if I knew it would keep anything else from going wrong.

 

[jdc28va]

Glad I found this thread, and I appreciate the details everyone has provided.

I started getting this popping sound this morning when I tried to put my heat on (it's chillier this morning than it has been in the past few days). Once I get the temp selector past about 3 o'clock toward full heat, the popping starts, about 2 pops per second. Sounds like the actuator? Glad I caught it in the spring and not in the middle of winter!

Looks pretty straight forward, and I've had my dash and console apart multiple times (remote start, two new radios, mobile HAM radio), so hopefully it will be an easy job (assuming I narrow it down to the correct part!)

 

[rgoltsch]

Glad I found this thread, and I appreciate the details everyone has provided.

I started getting this popping sound this morning when I tried to put my heat on (it's chillier this morning than it has been in the past few days). Once I get the temp selector past about 3 o'clock toward full heat, the popping starts, about 2 pops per second. Sounds like the actuator? Glad I caught it in the spring and not in the middle of winter!

Looks pretty straight forward, and I've had my dash and console apart multiple times (remote start, two new radios, mobile HAM radio), so hopefully it will be an easy job (assuming I narrow it down to the correct part!)

When it first started on my wife's truck, this is what it sounded like. When it first started, I found that if we turned the temp control all the way to cold, waited a few seconds, then went all the way to hot, it would sometimes catch and work, bringing heat back to the cabin. After a while, even this trick stopped working.

I followed the steps other people laid out in this thread and fixed it back last fall. It didn't take that long; it just took some fine motor skills on my part getting all the screws back in place.

My wife's only complaint this winter is that the heat in her Explorer is too damn hot after a while and she has to turn it down. If that's her only complaint, I am happy.

And lastly, on an unrelated repair....EDWX, good call on the tone ring. That was exactly what it was. My nephew is a mechanic and he took care of that for me. He actually diagnosed it as a bad sensor......I asked him, before he bought the $95 sensor, to check the tone ring. He did, and sure enough, it was cracked. Great call EDWX.