Completed Project Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread

Hello everybody! It's time to start the SAS on my Explorer. It will be an awesome project and the first project of this type and size that I have ever undertaken. Up to this point the sliders where the hardest thing that I have made myself. I am open to any suggestions and or insights from anyone as the project gets underway. I have bought every last part for the build minus the hard brake lines (axles, and from master to the frame) and the flexible lines that go down to the axles. Those are all easy to make so I am not worried about it for now until I get the axles put together and can see what i want to do with those.

Now for a list of things I will be doing with the project:
1995 F-150 8.8 - I bought this used rear axle that I will strip, lock with a Detroit, convert to Explorer Disc brakes, and mount to the truck. Factory rear sway bar will be used. I will be doing a spring over conversion and will also be remaking the rear V8 anti axle wrap bars to help the leaf springs out with the leverage and TQ the V8 37's and 5.13's will put on them.
1976 F-150 HP Dana 44 - I bought this used axle and will be stripping it of the Ford factory wedges, trussing, and building custom glorified radius arms. Like DB_1 runs and like Rubicon Expresses makes. Front will also have a Detroit Truetrac LSD in it as well. This Dana 44 has 1/2" thick axle tubes.
Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs - I will be building shock hoops for these coil-overs, bracing them, and tying them together across the top of the engine with removable double lock tube clamps.
1995 F-150 Steering box - This will be mounted inside the frame rail and used with the factory PS pump and will build a custom steering link from the box to the column. I picked this 1 to keep it ALL Ford and 2 because they are fairly cheap and easy and can be tapped for hydro assist at some point if I want or need it. In order to fit this steering gear I also have to remote mount my oil filter so that it has room. I will be getting rid of the factory oil cooler and have a Trans Dapt remote filter relocation kit.

Project Parts Section:
-37X13.50 R17 Interco M-16's
-Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs with Eibach Springs.
-Detroit Locker for the 8.8
-Detroit Truetrac for the Dana 44
-Yukon 5.13 gears for both front and rear.
-Both axles will receive ALL new bearings races and seals u-joints etc.
-All wheel studs front and rear and spindle studs have been replaced for safety reasons. To cheap not to.
-Already had EBC brakes on it so those pads on rear will be reused and new EBC 7000 series pads for the front have been purchased.
-New front rotors wheel bearings and new Spicer ball joints, going to reuse the warn locking hubs as they work great and are in good order and easily changed later if i wanted.
-1978 Ford T-Bird calipers have been bought in place of the factory F-150 ones. They are 17% bigger in piston size so will give me a little more brake up front to help stop those 37's.
-Trans Dapt Oil filter relocation Kit and addition mount to hook to the block at a 90*.
-Currie Johnny Joints and Rubicon Express Clevite bushings for the all the link ends.
-GM 1 ton tre's for the steering with a high angle tre at the pitman arm.
-Front axle truss. (wasn't impressed with it at all so will be making some changes)
-Extending current Expedition rear drive shaft and will have a custom double cardon one made for the front.
-Metal used: 2"X.250 wall DOM for lower links, 1 1/2"X.250 wall DOM used for upper links, 1 1/2"X.375 wall DOM used for trac bar, and ALL tabs and brackets will be made out of 1/4" Flat plate by me.
-Double lock tube clamps for the shock hoop cross brace that uses 2 3/8" bolts on each. These are so It can be removed.
-All Grade 8 hardware will be used.
-All flexible brake lines will be braided stainless steel Teflon lined hoses.

I like to follow others projects and often find myself wanting more pictures so bare with me there will be A LOT of pictures of the build. I hope you enjoy lots of pictures as much as I do.


First some pictures of what the truck was! Then onto some parts pictures. Build will start shortly.
1998 XLT Explorer. 5.0L with the 4R70W trans. I have the 4406 T-Case. 3.73 gears with rear LSD. Goodyear 31's. Rock sliders and front skid plate. Links to those builds are in my signature.

And here is some video links! There are a few videos of me wheeling in CO with nssj2!

 

[turboexplorer]

Still haven't driven the truck since I replaced the tail housing bushing. Been busy being out of town and trying to sell my Duramax. Hopefully it will be gone this weekend.

So in the meantime I have been slowly working on the truck with something I know works I have most of the truck done with the clay bar just a few panels left. Then time to give the whole rig a very good and careful wax. It also needs a few touch ups like the wiper arms need to be refinished and the cowling plastic needs to be dyed black again showing a small bit of sun. Few small cosmetic things that will really finish out the rig.

This is just with the clay bar, will look even better when its waxed and finished. Check out that reflection.

Also when it is done I will have a co worker get the whole truck fully PDR'd. (paintless dent repair) He does it for my work and does amazing work. Truck only has about a half dozen very small dings and they are all easily fixed. Will be nice to have the exterior almost perfect which is awesome since it is 17yrs old and gets wheeled

 

[turboexplorer]

Still vibrates, ran it on jack stands again and still think its the rear shaft.

Ordering a new Tom Woods rear drive shaft tomorrow. Wish me luck,



Also starting a new project, can't wait will be awesome. Converting my tent trailer to a toy hauler. Will be able to carry 2 quads and gear and still have the tent trailer. Easily still pulled by the Explorer. New trailer loaded should weight in at 3,000-3,200lbs. Will have a 3,500lb single axle with electric brakes and a removable section for 2nd quad so if just the trailer is used to head up the mountains it will be 4 feet shorter. Fun cheap fab project. Now I will be able to take the family and the 4 wheelers camping!

Also the current 1,500lb axle under tent trailer (trailer weights 1,700 ) Will be made into a very very light 2 place, easily pulled for quick day trips to the dunes.

 

[gmanpaint]

Well, hopefully it is just the drive shaft balance/angles causing the vibrations. (crosses fingers)

If not, might want to think about the transmission/TC being the cause. I can see a bad valve body, solenoid, pump, or broken TC causing a hydro pressure pulse, being the culprit. Even a loose flywheel or TC bolt. Something to think about if the shaft isn't the issue.

Best of luck with the new shaft!

 

[turboexplorer]

Well, hopefully it is just the drive shaft balance/angles causing the vibrations. (crosses fingers)

Best of luck with the new shaft!

Me to! I described this whole retarded sequence of events that has taken up far to many months to Tom Woods drive lines and they also think it may be a CV problem. They said it is possible that on a balancer at 0 working angle that it checks fine but is not true under a working angle. Since you have to cut the tube and redo it all to replace the CV I just bought a full new shaft. That way worst case is I have a spare shaft that I can drive out of a trail on or drive home on.

Anyways the new rear drive shaft will be here tomorrow! Not bad called them on Tuesday @ noon and will be here Thursday. Didn't realize that they are based in Ogden UT. They also said that if by some freak thing it still does it I can get the whole truck up to them and they can take a look at it. So far been very good customer service and very fast. Really excited for it, cant wait to have this issue done and be back to building and working on fun parts of the truck. (still have a curved 50" light light bar to mount and a currie antirock bar to install )

 

[sirhk100]

(still have a curved 50" light light bar to mount )

I installed a light bar on my tow rig yesterday. LOL

 

[turboexplorer]

That's awesome!!!

 

[turboexplorer]

So today we took the truck out wheeling for the first time in forever. Was fun, however it still vibrates with the new shaft . But didn't care still went wheeling.

On the trip I did find a few things that leads me to believe that it is in the rear diff. First remember when I said that it popped nasty down in Southern Utah? Thought it was in the front diff, It may have been the rear diff the whole time. On the drive home from that trip to Southern Utah I told my wife that it feels like it is vibrating or transferring noise a bit. Thought with all the wheeling that it was the transfer case rubbing on the gas tank support bracket. Anyways turns out that may have been the start of this vibrating.

So on the trip out today it had a few times where the rear felt 100% locked when driving through the trail. This normally doesn't happen with the Detroit since the outer tire over runs and disengages itself. So that was a bit different. Then after wheeling up the trail we usually take a different one down and haul down the trail putting the FOX shocks to work. (still need bumps) Every time that I took a right turn at speed I got a nasty clatter, metal on metal clatter. At this point I am thinking it feels like the front diff and my wife disagreed and thinks its in the rear. I was in 2WD but still had the hubs in. So I pulled off and then my brother pulls up and I tell him something isn't right. So we talk about what it was doing, then I unlocked the hubs and went back up the trail, turned around, then hauled back down to hit the same turn it had just done it on and it did it very bad. My brother and wife where standing by his truck and said it was VERY loud and was nasty. It is for sure a drive train issue and the only thing that changes in turns is the diff. I can throw it hard the other direction and nothing. It did this on every right turn the whole why down. So we did a few other tests while we where there, power braked it up in drive and reverse and both tires spin both directions and no popping from gears or locker so not sure what its doing. So next step is pulling the diff and going through it. Hope the nasty popping at times, nasty clatter at speed on turns, and vibration are all the same issue. For all I know I bent the rear housing on that Southern Utah trip. It did the clatter once on the drive home where I took a right turn harder than I normally would.

So will see what happens with all that. At least I have a direction to start looking in. Only took taking it wheeling to find it.

Anyways onto some pictures of today with [MENTION=137709]sector9[/MENTION] Man don't those headlights make it look a whole lot better?

 

[gmanpaint]

Driveline binds are hard to track down sometimes.

It could be the Detroit locker. They don't like it when you break an axle shaft.

Check the pinion teeth if you can, while your in there. The pinion gear was my initial guess way back when you first posted about the vibration.

 

[turboexplorer]

Driveline binds are hard to track down sometimes.

It could be the Detroit locker. They don't like it when you break an axle shaft.

Check the pinion teeth if you can, while your in there. The pinion gear was my initial guess way back when you first posted about the vibration.

Its not really a bind, its hard to describe. Similar to like a old school tranny where you try to go down into granny gear before you came to a complete stop. But its defiantly not in the trans or T-Case, for sure in the rear diff. Its the ratchet type clatter.

And didn't know the Detroits may have issues if a shaft is broken. Can't imagine the whip the locker would feel when a shaft lets go.

And yeah likely will require removing the whole diff to look inside and can properly inspect the gears as well. My 5.13's only have 7 teeth on the pinion so it really only contacts 1 tooth at a time really well. Taller gears contact multiple teeth at once and are generally a little stronger. So into the diff I go but will have to wait for a few weeks. We are headed to Denver to pick up my wife's new car this weekend! Super excited for her, she got to pick anything she wanted and she got a fully loaded 2015 4WD 2.0L Escape. So will have to wait for a few weekends. But if I did toast the axle in some way I think I may look into a Tera60, Currie 60, or Dynatrac 60. Go to a full float and be done with it. Also a selectable locker would be nice for pulling my trailers as it will push with both axles like a normal diff. Currently pulled up a steep winding canyon it only pushes with the inside tire on the turn. So a bit better for as few things as well as a whole ton stronger. But will see, don't really have the funds for it.

 

[gmanpaint]

It's always the last thing you look at. :

The detroits tend to break, even grenade when an axle shaft is snapped. There are 2 members I know of (and wheeled with) that has happened to, with them.

Knowing that the 5:13 pinions are the weak point, is why I suggested to inspect it. If a tooth is cracked, it could bind, and when it lets loose, you hear the noise. Same goes for the detroit internals.

I would Swipe a magnet in the diff valley after you take the cover off, and see if anything is loose in there. Never know, might tell the story real fast.


Oh.... The pics are awesome!

 

[turboexplorer]

Very true I will do that, how sad is it that I am hoping for failed parts. But don't care as long as I find something, I hope everything is related and it all makes sense.

And always is the last place you look. But the vibration is weird and I swore it was the driveline, really didn't think it was in the diff. Lol, just took wheeling again to figure it out. Could have done that months ago. Again hoping I find something and everything makes sense.

 

[Kirby N.]

I have a killed a Detroit or two from shock load due to a shaft breaking. Usually the clutch teeth chunk off. You can get parts from eaton fairly reasonable and fix it.

I think if you went to a arb your problems would be resolved with the 8.8. You are close to Tera though so maybe you just need an excuse to install one of thier assemblies. Scratch and dent?

 

[turboexplorer]

Interesting, I didn't know that. I would have gone into the Detroit when I broke it if I would have known. But even if that part of the locker has failed wonder how that would cause a vibration at 55+mph.

I am still paranoid about breaking axles though so at times makes wheeling more stressful, like when I drive 300 miles to wheel to drive back. And yes an ARB would make a few things nicer, towing, daily driving, and not ad much slop in the difference so it rolls 6" forward after you put it in park.

And yes my neighbor from Tera is looking into pricing for me, think Rick is running a Tera60 isn't he?

 

[BKennedy]

I think Rick has a Rock Jock 60, if that's by Terra.

I always wondered why my Explorer rolls so much after I put it in park. I never thought it was the locker. Makes since now that someone else wrote it down. I have had front ARB's and now have a Eaton E-Locker. I like them both. The ARB had some lock and unlock issues, and I have several friends who have had seal issues. The Eaton has been flawless, quiet and smooth, but its still what I would consider new so time will tell. I like the fact that with the e-locker, there is one less thing to go wrong; compressed air.

 

[sirhk100]

Detroit in the rear of my 8.8 and it definitely will roll a bit when put in park... Always been told it's normal and just a normal side affect of the locker.

 

[turboexplorer]

Yeah its done that since new and my brothers does the same. Was just mentioning a small thing that would improve if I went with a ARB in a new 60! Wish I had the cash then I would just order one right now Always paranoid of breaking a shafts after I broke that first one.

 

[turboexplorer]

I think Rick has a Rock Jock 60, if that's by Terra.

I always wondered why my Explorer rolls so much after I put it in park. I never thought it was the locker. Makes since now that someone else wrote it down. I have had front ARB's and now have a Eaton E-Locker. I like them both. The ARB had some lock and unlock issues, and I have several friends who have had seal issues. The Eaton has been flawless, quiet and smooth, but its still what I would consider new so time will tell. I like the fact that with the e-locker, there is one less thing to go wrong; compressed air.

Lol missed this post, if its the Rock Jock that axle is from Currie Enterprises. There is the 3 main ones, the RockJock (Currie), ProRock (Dynatrac), Tera (Teraflex). And thats funny on the locker, I felt the same way when I first started top drive it, what is that? Then had to do a little looking and found the play inside the locker. Its more exaggerated with big tires as the same degree of slope translates to a further distance as the tire size increases.

Either way I have emailed all 3 companies and not a single one has replied. I must have bad luck with asking questions and mentioning I want to purchase a $4,000 axle they must not need the extra 4K or they flat don't care about anything other than their off the shelf jeep replacement axles. Will see, same issue I had in trying to get rear Deaver Leafs springs contacted several times and never a single response so went elsewhere.

Well I sold my 04' Taurus last night that has served us flawlessly for 7 years and 100K, and we drove 500miles to pick up our new 2015 Escape in Denver at a fantastic Ford Dealership, well worth the drive. Anyways more on that later, but that does mean that with all that done this weekend is free to tear down the rear diff and take a look. That will hopefully tell a tail that explains this all. If so then I will pursue a custom 60 harder. Will post pictures of the new Escape for the wife later, absolutely love it so far! Lol, already have 800miles on it in 5 days.

 

[Kirby N.]

I am still impressed you broke a 8.8 shaft. With all the stress I put on mine with a Detroit, 37s and a doubler it never even stressed the splines. I have a buddy with a full size bronco- same axle. 37s and beats on it. No issue with the rear. If you are that worried about it you could add a set of chromo shafts.

4k is a lot for an axle. Yours already has disks with a functioning e brake and has the strength.

 

[Kirby N.]

Buy and atlas and chromoly shafts and still be ahead.

 

[gmanpaint]

Or install the Super88 kit for $500