Cant get Fuel pump Out | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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artgod33

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96 Eddie Bauer
Finally bit the bullet and decided to drop the tank and pull out the fuel pump yesterday. 96 5.0 awd

After struggling to get the tank down a few inches I found the clips connecting the fuel line to the top of the fuel pump the "special tool" I had was too big (thats what she said ;0)~) so I had to hit the store for a new set of plastic fuel line / A.C. disconnectors.

Found the right size... pulled... nothing!

tried the other line... a little but still not off.

Struggled for HOURS and couldn't get it.

One shift a bout a half inch back and forth without releasing off completely and the other can spin but will not release at all.

I gave up for the night and am heading back over t my buddies garage now. Any suggestion on how to get this lose?

BTW- I changed the fuel filter to make sure I was using the tool correctly and made sure it fit correctly. I was and it did.

HELP!!!!!!!
 



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Try spraying the fittings with PB Blaster and letting 'em soak. Hose it down really well to try and remove any debris from the fitting. Because it's under the vehicle, they can get grunged up and cause them to jam.
 






Those fittings are terrible in some cases. I've seen pros struggle and swear with them. You have to keep trying, PB, motor oil, wd 40, prayers .. you get the idea.. Sometimes you have to try both the plastic and metal tools.
 






The fuel fittings are hit and miss.. One line came out fine for me, while the other tested my patients over an entire weekend.. I got so fed up I pressed the tool in as hard as I could and yanked the crap out of the lines.. I ended up breaking off one of the garter fingers (which didn't affect the re-installation).

Read through the info and pics in the Fuel filter replacement thread the one below shows exactly how the tool must release the inner garter springs fingers..

fuelfilter8.jpg
 






Yeah I was having some problems with mine. The thing gets crammed in there so tight. I used WD40 to try and loosen it up and just jammed the disconnect in there and it eventually worked itself out.
 






Use the next larger disconnect tool than it looks like it needs... The shoulder is often a bit larger than the 'correct' size tool will release. (In fact, many of the packages state that for Fords, use the XXXXX colored one)

-Joe
 






Finally got them off.

I'd say added up after about 4 hours of trying.

One finally just clicked and came off... the other I used a small screwdriver and pried two of the prongs out and the line sliipped off.

deifnitely going to need to change those when i put it back together...

thats right its not back together... but thats another story!
 






I had problems with these things too -- the plastic sleeve tool doodad just wasnt thick enough so I rolled/shimed it with some thick paper. By itself, the tool wasnt pushing the "springs" out far enough to clear the other half and let it slip out.
 






The PB blaster trick mentioned above does the trick for me, Any time I have to take those apart I hit them with PB about a half hour before I even attempt to disconnect them.

Good luck with the Inlet and the vent connections on the back of the tank. Those were my biggest headaches when I last dropped my tank.
 






The PB blaster trick mentioned above does the trick for me, Any time I have to take those apart I hit them with PB about a half hour before I even attempt to disconnect them.

Good luck with the Inlet and the vent connections on the back of the tank. Those were my biggest headaches when I last dropped my tank.

Those came out fine once I understood how the clip worked... I used channel locks (lightly) to get a decent grip and used them as leverage against the tank to pull the clips off the stems.

Once started a little they popped right off.
 






Here's a picture of those clips for any who's intersted once I pulled them out of the hose

ry%3D400.jpg
 






I had problems with these things too -- the plastic sleeve tool doodad just wasnt thick enough so I rolled/shimed it with some thick paper. By itself, the tool wasnt pushing the "springs" out far enough to clear the other half and let it slip out.

I can't believe they call them "quick disconnects." Almost like Ford doublespeak.

The ones on the air conditioning with garter springs are much easier. I believe there are some fuel lines under the hood with the springs.

I much prefer the plastic clip arrangement. It is tricky the first time but it can always release.

Another thing that helps is putting some duct tape on the tool halves that go into the spring to get a bit more leverage.
 






I've never had an issue with them myself... Usually, if I have, it's only due to using the wrong size tool on the fitting... The right tool always makes the job easier.

-Joe
 






OK so I got everything out.

Got all the parts I needed.

Outt he tank back together.

Put the tnak back up.

Hooked up the lines.

Bolted everythign down.

Hooked up the power.

Turned the key to run the fuel pump.

Runs strong...

GAS LEAK!!!

the larger of the two line fromt he fuel pump is leaking. The metal clips (I bought new ones) aren't holding. Well the smalelr one is.

When I was putting in the larger one it was coming out very easily. And I had a difficult time gettting it to attach onto the fuel line form the pump. What I think happened is the lip that holds the clip in got bent out when I was tryignt o get the old clips off and now when you addd pressure to the line it makes the line slip right off.

I called it a night last night but am going to need to go take everything down againt o gain access to the line and clips. I am hoping I can bend that lip back into shape (not alot of play in that line) so it holds the clip.

I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions.

Possibly even a way to change that out somehow.

I don't know why they dont use simple screw in "turnbuckle" style screws to connect the lines anymore.

these "quick clips" are nothing but trouble!

(I decided to make this its own post too incase this thread doesn't get any more attention)
 






Wait, what did you bend? The truck side of the connection or the tank side?
 






Wait, what did you bend? The truck side of the connection or the tank side?

truck side

the metal "funnel" that holds the clips, holds them in to by using a little lip.

A part of the lip straightened out and doesn't seem to be holding the clip in
 






Here is a pretty simplistic picture trying to explain

ry%3D400.jpg
 






That is not the part that seals, try pushing it on a little more, mine took some gunting to get back together.
 






you can buy new metal clips at many auto parts stores, the part that goes back into the line, if yours are now FUBAR

Also next time, instead of spending 4 hours (been there done that on these Gen II's) get yourself a sharpie marker, remove the cap, cut the tip off, slit it down the side so you can get it over the metal line, and try that. Start small and keep cutting the tip off until it works perfect, about 1/4" dia I would guess

Throw it in your tool box when you are done

The plastic tools, the metal tools, pliers, lubes, etc are not as fast as using the sharpie cap on the stubborn lines

I cant take credit for this either, I learned it from my buddy Joe Deitz, he used a chapstick tube to get his fuel line off years ago...

You have two threads going :)
 



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