Torque Monster Headers Install Write-up and Review

[mounty71]

Links to the socks that you stock cable guys used? The ones in the link bullnerd posted say they can lay up against the header, which sounds good to me.

 

[Cobraguy]

The socks are well worth it. You don't need 8 of them, but there are a few that will benefit.

 

[celly]

I've had the worst luck with wires and the headers and I've been pretty creative in the past with non-standard routing, socks and custom wires.

I now use 6X Aurora wires with socks (assorted boots) and 2X Ford OEM wires (on those really tight ones on the passenger side). I'm using the 2 wires with the metal heat shields.

I plan to go the ceramic route in due course.

 

[Cobraguy]

I use the stock wires. I also use the factory heat shields that snap in. Then, I use three socks...maybe four...can't remember for sure. I have 45,000 miles on that set up without a single wire failure.

 

[bullnerd]

Got my headers yesterday (Friday).Just as everyone else has stated many times,they look great and were packaged very well.I was going to ask where to get new collector bolts,but they came with them.Sweet.

I have to get wires(going to try stock with the socks) and I think I'm going to replace the egr valve so I can just unbolt it from the plenum and forget about messing with the tube.I got the modded tube for the 1" spacer from Bob.

I have already loosened all the manifold bolts through the fenderwell with a long extension and lots of PB blaster.

My biggest problem is going to be the collector bolts.My car is from the east coast and you cannot even see threads on the bolts because they are so rusted.Does anyone know for sure if they can just be cut?Zip wheel?

As soon as my POS garage gets above freezing I'll give it a shot.

BTW,when you guys say stock wires ,you mean autolite brand with the metal boots or ?
Anyone use AC stuff?My other car is a turbo buick and I've always had good luck with AC parts.

 

[Trolling]

never had any problems with taylor wires. i do have protective thermal boots on all 8 plugs but the wires are long enough to be routed around and away the headers.

 

[66427]

My biggest problem is going to be the collector bolts.My car is from the east coast and you cannot even see threads on the bolts because they are so rusted.Does anyone know for sure if they can just be cut?Zip wheel?

If I had a set of torches things would have been different but...
Drivers side threads looked good so I soaked with PB and went to the passenger side. Swore a bunch and then some more. Ended up buying one of those new vibrating multi purpose cutters to get the rear bolt, sawzall and a 12" blade for the front bolt but only after removing the starter.

Back to the drivers side and more PB, I then said scew it and cut the rear bolt off with my dremel. The front bolt I soaked more and then broke three sockets (Craftsman 6 point, two 3/8 drive and one 1/2 drive) and one 3/8 ratchet (Crftsman). I finally reverted to chasing down some roady heavy equipment mechanic to let me use his torches.

Sorry...made a short story long...if you can use or get torches. And the proper shade 5 goggles or face sheild, gloves, apron, fire extinguisher.

 

[Cobraguy]

East coast? Never been removed? I'll bet you are cutting bolts whether you want to or not. At least there is room with this design to do that if you can find the right tools.

 

[bullnerd]

Maybe I'll get lucky and just rip the heads off with an impact gun.

 

[bullnerd]

Well,I got the TMs installed.What a *****!But I'll start my own thread for my rant.

The problem is I now have a rough idle/backfire issue.I did the intake spacer as well and I assume this is where my problem is.

The only other thing I changed from a previously good running truck is the plugs(from AC to auto plat.) and EGR valve.

I dont have a scanner but will borrow one soon.

Can a vacuum leak produce the backfire?It started right up,no CEL,let it idle for a couple min. while I checked for fires and melting stuff,then when I tried to rev a little backfire through the ex I think ,hard to tell from inside.

Need help big time!

 

[bullnerd]

Well ,I did some searching and it definately sounds like a vacuum leak is my problem.I didnt have time to work on it today.

 

[nrschaaf]

This is a great thread, very informative. I did have 2 questions though. I've heard that headers can be a problem with the plug location on the GT-40P heads. It looks like those are what you have, do you have any issues with this? And is it true that the all wheel drive vehicles park through the front axle? I was thinking about doing manual hubs on my front axle and eventualy a 4406 swap. But I don't wanna do the hub swap if I'll lose park.

 

[Cobraguy]

TM headers fit fine. You'll need some heat sleeves, but that's it.

You can't use hubs and the AWD transfer case. Switch the hubs and transfer case at the same time.

You going to try and retro a Ranger hub? I don't know of any other possibility out there...and I don't believe anyone has ever tried the Ranger set up...but I looked into it and think it may be possible. Good luck!

 

[nrschaaf]

Yeah I was planning on the ranger hubs. There's a thread on here about the swap. I still haven't completely made up my mind. But thanks for the info about the t case. Guess I will do that first then. Gives me more time to think over the hubs anyway.

 

[mounty71]

Bumping again. I got the driver's side header on last night, and will be doing the passenger's side today. I just read through this thread again and have one question...

Did you guys need to bend the oil dipstick or is it okay resting directly on the header? I started the truck up for a minute after getting the driver's header on and something started smoking but I couldn't find what it was. The dipstick is the only thing that was touching the header. If it's not that, I'm guessing the smoke was just grease and crap on the headers from installation. These are used headers by the way.

 

[mounty71]

Holy cow, this is not a job for the timid! I worked on the passenger side for about 12 hours today and it's still not finished! Whoever says they did the entire install in 4 hours has to be lying, there's just no way.

I don't remember reading about this, but I have almost zero clearance between the passenger side header and the A/C box thing on the firewall. I barely managed to sandwich the tin-foil insulation stuff in between the header and that box, and they are in direct contact. Will that be a problem with heat from the header? There's nothing I can really do about it though.

And I'd still like to hear opinions on the oil dipstick resting against the driver's side header.

 

[Trolling]

The problem is I now have a rough idle/backfire issue.I did the intake spacer as well and I assume this is where my problem is.

Can a vacuum leak produce the backfire?It started right up,no CEL,let it idle for a couple min. while I checked for fires and melting stuff,then when I tried to rev a little backfire through the ex I think ,hard to tell from inside.

Need help big time!

One bad spark plug. same thing happened to me after header installation. when i installed the phenolic spacer, i misaligned the gasket but that instantly stalled the engine after starting it up and did not produce any backfiring.

So my best guess would be;
backfiring = bad plug/spark plug wire
engine stalling - misaligned upper intake gasket

Did you guys need to bend the oil dipstick or is it okay resting directly on the header? I started the truck up for a minute after getting the driver's header on and something started smoking but I couldn't find what it was. The dipstick is the only thing that was touching the header. If it's not that, I'm guessing the smoke was just grease and crap on the headers from installation. These are used headers by the way.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Holy cow, this is not a job for the timid! I worked on the passenger side for about 12 hours today and it's still not finished! Whoever says they did the entire install in 4 hours has to be lying, there's just no way.

I don't remember reading about this, but I have almost zero clearance between the passenger side header and the A/C box thing on the firewall. I barely managed to sandwich the tin-foil insulation stuff in between the header and that box, and they are in direct contact. Will that be a problem with heat from the header? There's nothing I can really do about it though.

And I'd still like to hear opinions on the oil dipstick resting against the driver's side header.

smoke is from the headers. mine smoked for about 10 minutes at first start up.

the dipstick is metal zip tied to the header.

I installed mine in about 6 hours with meal breaks, not bad for a rusty truck that has been in the east for more than a decade.

That tin foil insulation needs to be removed then reinstalled later and it gives the installer just enough room to squeeze the passenger header in.

 

[nrschaaf]

I don't think the almost zero clearance between the air box insulation and the header will be an issue. It hasnt been for me, but then I've only had them on the truck for about 400 miles.

As for the dipstick, I don't see why it would be a problem. Theres nothing plastic involved aside from the handle and that's far enough away to not be a problem. After all, the dipstick shares a bolt with the header. It's gotta get hot there as it is. Might start vibrating after awhile though.

6 hours is impressive, it took me that long to get the passenger side header on. I think there may have been something wrong with mine though, it took alot convincing with a 6 foot pry bar to line up the #4 bolts.

I'd love to know how people managed to tighted the motor mount nuts after the install, I couldn'e even see mine, let alone be able to try get a wrench on there. I decided to unbolt the two from underneath, where the plate mounts to the engine. Much easier in my opinion, and you could still get a torque wrench on there to be sure you've got it where it should be.

 

[mounty71]

Ok thanks guys. I'll just run it how it is and hope for the best. At this point it's not going to change. My hands and back are so sore from 2 days working on this, I hope it doesn't take much more to finish up today.

The passenger side took so long because of, of course, the inside collector bolt, and because the header was getting stuck between the motor mount bolts, the A/C box, the front alignment cam for the A arm, and the alternator/accessory mount on the front of the engine. I trimmed the motor mount bolts, unbolted the bottom one and lifted the engine, unbolted the inner side of the A/C box, loosened the alternator, and turned the alignment cam, and with a deadblow to the front of the header it finally slid into place. The EGR tube was easy to bend into shape, but it took about 40 minutes of tedious crescent wrench work to get it bolted back up. The coating on the headers is not so pretty in some places anymore, but oh well. These things better be damn worth it!

[/rant]

 

[nrschaaf]

I'd have to say it is. I did mine while installing a crate engine that I've read mixed reviews on. Some say it's the same as stock, some sat it's about 20% more powerfull. If it is stock, which seams to be the more popular conclusion, then it's a night and day difference. It did add some troatiness to the exhaust which was a pleasant plus. I havent towed with them yet, but from what I read further back in the forum they really help.