Rear Sway Bar Quick Disconnects - By CBoug76

Parts used:

2 3/16" Lynch Pins
Dia (A) (B)
3/16" 1 9/16" 1 1/4"

2 3/8-16 1/2" Dia Shoulder Screws

4 1/2" Stainless Steel Washers .132" thick

I just made some Quick Disconnects for my rear sway bar. They were easy to make. I found
at my work some Shoulder screws, they just happen to have a 1/2" diamerter should and be
about 2.5" long, and on the end they had about 1/2 more of 3/8" thread.
Here is what I did:

1) I took out the stock bolts. (some force will be needed.)
2) Drilled out the sway bar holes with a 1/2" drill bit.(the hole is not a perfect hole,
almost like they made the hole when they cast the sway bar.)
3) Test fitted the bolts, with a little grease they went thru the sway bar and bushing with
no problem. You should have 1 washer on the bolt before you put it thru the sway bar, and
then put the 2nd washer on the bolt after it is thru the sway bar.
4) Next, I had to drill a hole in the bolt so that I could put the Lynch Pinn in it. Mark
the bolt with a marker of a pencil where the Lynch pin would go thru the bolt while it
is up against the washer. I used a 3/16" Drill bit, making sure to go Straight thru the
bolt.
5) Now you can stop here or if you want you can round over the end of the shoulder screw so
that it helps to line everything up as it is inserted in the hole. You also might want to
do this to the Lynch Pins too.

Rounded End Pin

The First picture had a pointed end, the second picture has a square end, this is how they come when you purchase them.

Threaded End Pin

Here is the Quick Disconnect with all its parts put together. (Shown is the Pin with Threaded on the end)

In this picture you see a Wing Nut and a Plate on the Threaded portion of the pin, If Some wanted a "Back-up" for the Lynch Pin, This is what you could do.

Here is The Driver's Side Quick Disconnect Pin before I rounded the end off, The Pass. Side is Identical, with the obvious exception that everything is mirrored.


I Noticed that when I go to put the quick disconnects back in, it is easier to insert the
Pass Side before the Drivers Side.


Any Questions, just e-mail me or post here.

 

[CBoug76]

I found the Shoulder Screws at a previous job.

Maybe your Local Home store will have them, but if not you can always go to an Industrial Supply Store such as McMaster Carr, or MSC. both are on the web.

www.mcmaster.com
Part Number 90298A722
1-4 Each $6.29 Each. 5 or more $5.32 Each
plus Shipping.

www.mscdirect.com
Dead Link Removed
The Minumium you can buy is 25 @ $33.80 plus Shipping.

If someone wanted they could find 12 other people and get in together, or 1 guy can get them and sell them......

 

[Charlie's_93EB]

time for a add on. So now you know how to do a Quick Dico of the rear, i say just take off the small bars and let that be that. But what ever.


Time to learn would to front. Home Depot sell clevis pins, more or less they are a bolt with a row of some holes drilled in. I used two 7/16" x 2-1/2", and at HD two trays down they sell lynch pins, two 3/16" is what i used. cost about $5. Washers i had on hand.

in the first you see the pins, and the 2nd you see where they will go.

 

[Charlie's_93EB]

now to get the old bolts out i used a 3/4 air wrench on the nut and a 3/4 box wrench to hole the bolt.

i turned the wheels to the left to do the left side and right to do the right.

I drilled a 3/16" hold in the 2nd to the last hole in the clevis pins.

then put one washer on then slip the pin in, this can be little hard, because it may not line up. Just work on it you will get it.

lastly put the 2nd washer in then the lynch pin. As a added saftly measure you can use a zip tie to hold down the lynch pin if you feel you need it.

good luck,

Charlie

 

[nissanboy]

guys guys your making this too diffiuclt... i just drilled a hole to slide a lynch pin in on the stud coming off the sway bar link. When you want to disconnect it you pull the pin and jek the link out.

 

[Spas]

Have any of you guys had any problems (breaking, bending, etc) since you all used your individual variations on this idea?

 

[410Fortune]

My pins have not bent at all Spas, the ones I made are almost identical to these, except I use a small spring around the pin with an additional washer before putting in the cotter pin.

This keeps the pin in there TIGHT, no rattles.
However even w/o the springs this is the pefect quick disco setup and the same thing can be used on the rear swaybar as well.

Long/large zip ties hold the bar and doglegs up out of the way, you can also use bunjee or straps or whatever. I carry a large plastic jar with me on the trial to keep the bushings and hardware in when the bars are disco'd

 

[Spas]

Thanks 410

I'm wondering if Nissanboy might have the even cheaper answer by just drilling holes in the factory bolts? -->cheap@$$ on an extremely limited budget here<-- I'm just too lazy to drill the hole out, especially since I don't have a 1/2" bit. But I take it the factory bolts probably won't slide in or out as easily as aftermarket lynch pins?

 

[410Fortune]

the pins are the perfect size.
I did all 4 coreners for about $15 at a local Ace Hardware that has everything..

 

[Charlie's_93EB]

well i ended up cutting up a old bike inner tube, to make rubber waskers b/c it rattled.

 

[dkchrist]

I like all the ideas now i just have to pick one for myself