Tired Leaf Springs

[MountaineerGreen]

After further review, I can't possibly use my longer shocks. There is no way to mount the tabs low enough to use extended length shocks without sacrificing ground clearance.

I guess stock length shocks work OK and don't limit travel?

 

[Hokie]

You can also just use the Superlift kit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...1&part=SLF-1160&N=700+400416+115&autoview=sku

They get mixed reviews as its not welded to the axle tube.

Here are a couple pics of someone that installed them.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I saw those in pictures, they are pretty slick because they allow the shocks to mount and the bolt on. The bolt on is a double edged sword: Its nice that I can remove them, but would I risk them coming loose on me?

What if I got those and some big ole u bolts and 3/8" thick plates to make it more secure?

And, the "footprint" of the adapter is small, that could contribute to spring wrap.



Could I use those and my longer shocks???

If I could, it would be beneficial cost wise to buy the Superlift kit, u bolts and spring plates.

 

[Hokie]

Thanks Hokie, I am looking locally to see if I can find some, but I am having a hard time. I hate to ask you to go over and get em, box em and mail em to me.

Mine were $24 with tax

They come in a box and grinding ain't that big of an issue as I'd just hit it with the plasma cutter. Of course, you can get some that are made to fit for probably $35 to your door, so thats your best bet.

 

[Hokie]

Could I use those and my longer shocks???

If I could, it would be beneficial cost wise to buy the Superlift kit, u bolts and spring plates.

Call Superlift. Tell them about your front kit and that your springs are sagging so you want to go SOA to match the front. Ask them which shocks they recommend with their kit.

 

[FROADER]

I have the Superlift bolt ons and beat the crap out of mine. They won't come loose any more than they would without the kit.
You could bolt the shocks to the sway bar wholes.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I have the Superlift bolt ons and beat the crap out of mine. They won't come loose any more than they would without the kit.
You could bolt the shocks to the sway bar wholes.

That's good to hear- sounds like what I am going to do. I don't have a welder at my shop, no power to run one.

I have longer shocks that I bought when I installed my lift, I sold my regular shocks after I took them off. I doubt that my longer shocks will work, I'll bet they will be bottomed out at ride height if on the sway bar bracket.

 

[carlover]

Not trying to hijack your thread or anything evan, but do you guys know what stroke shock would work best with an SOA and the shock mounting relocated? i was thinking a 12" but that might be way to long. I really have no clue and dont wanna buy something thats to long.

 

[FROADER]

I'll bet they will be bottomed out at ride height if on the sway bar bracket.

What about if bolted to the bottom hole there? That's at least 2" lower.


carlover - do you mean relocating the upper or lower mount?

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I think if the shocks went straight down, they wouldn't clear my 33" spare. They already almost touch at an angle.

From what I can tell, the Superlift brackets want to reuse the stock shocks. I may just try to find some cheapies.

 

[FROADER]

Yeah, they use the stock shocks.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Carlover- the stock shocks have 10" of travel if that helps any. 12" may not be too much depending on where and how you mount them. If you plan heavy duty use, you may want to consider alternative mounting for the top.

 

[Hokie]

I think if the shocks went straight down, they wouldn't clear my 33" spare. They already almost touch at an angle.

Your 33" spare fits under the truck? I would've never figured that there would be enough room

 

[Maniak]

I also have a 33" spare under the truck.. Its a '92 4 door with 33x12.50 BFG At's on 8" rims. I keep 10psi of air in the tire to make it fit. I have found that if I compress the rear suspension far enough that the tire does rub on the diff cover.

I'm also looking into an SOA with stock springs to replace my tired OME-36 springs with WAR-153 shackles.

~Mark

 

[mounty71]

Have you considered the shock towers made by McNeil that mount the shocks outside of the frame rails? Fat Cat has them on his SOA ex. Here is a link that is in his SAS registy: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138090

 

[Hokie]

Have you considered the shock towers made by McNeil that mount the shocks outside of the frame rails? Fat Cat has them on his SOA ex. Here is a link that is in his SAS registy: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138090

Theoretically, that will help with stability and handling. Ford advertised moving the shocks outside of the frame rail when they redesigned the F-150 in '02.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I could never use outboard shocks unless I went full width axles. My tires rub my inner fenders like a sommbitch now, shocks wouldn't make it unless angled pretty severely.

 

[carlover]

im talking to the guy building my front end about putting the shocks on the outside of the frame. I gotta get under there and see what might rub and what i might have to do to make it work.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I wonder how much of an angle shocks can be used at and they still be effective?

I have my factory traction bar tabs on my axle, if I could figure out how to mount them to the frame so they would clear the tire, it may work.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I looked at CG's outboard shocks. They don't rub, but he also has $300 custom hoops and wheel spacers, as well as tabs welded to the axle tube.

I am going to go flex my rear as much as possible, crawl under there and see what I can figure out. I don't have any money for $300 shock hoops though.