Something w/ rabbits. 72.5 pages of BS

So seeing as spring is just around the corner, I thought I'd start a thread on the future undertaking of swapping in the Dana 60.

The axle is from a 1986 "Fawwd" F-threee "fitty", sporting some kingpins and a whole lot of rust. I took this axle apart a few months ago (except stupid me didnt remove the pinion nut before breakdown ) and had it hot tanked. I wanted it sandblasted, but the machine shop owner smirked and said "naaah yo, that junx is too big for my blasting cabinet" .. okay except he didn't really say that cauz he's old and a really cool guy. ANyways *twirls blonde hair*, this is my plaannn:

- WMS-WMS this axle is just a bit over 69" wide so I'm going to cut the passenger's side down a few inches to match 'ye ol General Motors 14-bolt axle. So this is going to require custom axle shafts and I think I'm going to go Chromos and 35-spline outers off the bat from the most awesome guys at Complete Off Road.

- Drive flange or lockouts? They are about the same in price and its a dedicated trail rig so I'm leaning towards the drive flanges. Right now, the cheapest flanges I found are the Teraflexes at $180 for a pair. If anyone knows of a better deal, please let me know !!

- High-steer arms and a double-ended hydroponics goodness ("cylinder").

- Opposite-ended panhard bar! The idea is to mount the chassis end of the panhard on the passenger's side frame rail and the axle end on the driver's side. Doing so should allow a more simple and cleaner design since the axle-mount can be mounted on top of or near the differential housing, instead of a tower on the passenger's side (like in my current D44 setup). I also plan to boost the panhard as far up as possible to increase the roll center of the front suspension. Yeah the concept is a little strange but I'm hoping it'll work and won't have any issues (no drag-link to factor into the design). But if anyone knows of any problem running this config, please chime in!

*EDIT*
- Detoit Locker for the carrier. I'm please with how the Detroit in the 14-bolt has performed so I figured I'd run the same in the front. Of course 5.13s to match the 14-bolt.


So here's the little guy, he's been in this position for the past few months just collecting dust:

 

[IZwack]

Tell me more about that HF winch? That to pull the rear down right? I have thinking about this on mine, Would be coolto rig one of those up front and rear, then control in the cab for climbing and desending. and for $100 bucks no less

its advertised for 2k pull max. I can't really say much about it for now since I havent used it but a few people on PBB are using the same winch.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92860

 

[IZwack]

Fin driver's side engine mount:

Bushing used is the same bushing I'm using on the chassis end of the axle links.


Remote fuel filter header with JIC fittings -- had to go remote to make way for passenger's side engine mount.

 

[410Fortune]

nice engine cradle
Looking amazing

 

[jwrezz]

Bushing used is the same bushing I'm using on the chassis end of the axle links.


Remote fuel filter header with JIC fittings -- had to go remote to make way for passenger's side engine mount.

You mean oil filter, right?

 

[IZwack]

Ahaha you're so right -- oil filter, not fuel filter.

 

[wood1]

I love your welds. My OCD side really seems impressed with them.

 

[Nick26]

How come you made the tube that holds the motor mount unboltable? I would have thought you'd want those solid and if you ever had to pull the engine you would always pull it up anyway.

 

[techieman33]

 

[IZwack]

Hehe thanks guys.

How come you made the tube that holds the motor mount unboltable? I would have thought you'd want those solid and if you ever had to pull the engine you would always pull it up anyway.

Its unboltable so that the entire engine/trans can be lowered from under the vehicle by removing 6 bolts (4 for engine, 2 for trans). It can't be pulled up because the bar (cage) that goes under the "windshield" will pretty much lock it in from the top.

 

[IZwack]

Passenger's side engine mount.

 

[BKennedy]

Very Nice Welds! I go out to the shed every so often to look at that Dana-44 sitting out there, waiting.........waiting.......and then I look at your stuff. You are getting a lot done in a short amount of time. Keep it up.

 

[jwrezz]

Fin driver's side engine mount:

Bushing used is the same bushing I'm using on the chassis end of the axle links.


Remote fuel filter header with JIC fittings -- had to go remote to make way for passenger's side engine mount.

How come the first two pics look so diff? There's a bar missing in the first one, but it doesn't look removable from what the second pic shows.

 

[IZwack]

I go out to the shed every so often to look at that Dana-44 sitting out there, waiting.........waiting.......and then I look at your stuff. You are getting a lot done in a short amount of time. Keep it up.

I'm way behind schedule, but I guess I gave up on caring about schedules . But one day you'll get that D44 under your truck. Hey bring everything out to T-haven and we can all partake in a 1 day axle swap (and then run the rig the following day!)

How come the first two pics look so diff? There's a bar missing in the first one, but it doesn't look removable from what the second pic shows.

Hopefully these pictures do a better job explaining the mess I have going on under there:

That non-removable bar is out of the way and is angled in such that:
1) It clears the rear corner of the engine block/head/valve cover if the engine is ever to be removed (from the bottom) and
2) Give the driver room to fit two feet and two pedals.

This bar mounts to a triangular doodad that protrudes from the chassis.

The removable bar (which is what the engine bolts to) is bolted to the back of the non-remobable bar .

There is one more non-removable bar that need to be welded in (is not in the pics) that distributes the load from the top of the cage (front of the roof on a roll over) to the triangular doodad. The same bar will also be added to the passenger's side. And then one more bar that goes from the triangular doodad to the bars in front of the engine to help protect the engine in case the axle/panhard wants to move back. But these wont be added until the headers are done or else they'd just get in the way during fitting.

 

[jwrezz]

Ok, I was just seeing it wrong. I get it now, that non removable bar looked as if it went as far forward as the engine mount bar. Thanx for the clarification, and again, great work, and good luck w/ the rest of it!

 

[BKennedy]

I'm way behind schedule, but I guess I gave up on caring about schedules . But one day you'll get that D44 under your truck. Hey bring everything out to T-haven and we can all partake in a 1 day axle swap (and then run the rig the following day!).

What a great idea!
Schedules are only guidelines to get you moving. They usually never happen.....at least that is what the contractor said who remodeled the inside of our house....:

 

[IZwack]

Opened up the front for easier welding. I've also started to remove unnecessary internal body structure with the goal of having just the outer sheet metal left.

 

[410Fortune]

sweetness we all dream of doing this you are the man of action

 

[IZwack]

"woman of action" ... get it right

 

[BKennedy]

Now I am starting to get a little nervous about you coming out camping in October.

 

[94 Crawler]

IZ you are a sick man, and that conclusion came befor the woman coment.

It looks good . And yes life dose tend to screw up schedules but hay thats LIFE.