Completed Project Kirby's Navajo Next Level

[94 Crawler]

If you are going to weld on a tank you need to run a pipe from the exhaust of a running vehicle to the sender hole on thetank and let it exhaust fron the filler neck. Let it run like that for an hour or two. When I was working at the independant shop this is what we did to repair a tank in an El Camino that we could not get a raplacament for. We brazed it with an oxy/accet rig. Still kind of scarry tho.
here are som pics of my shifters

go to off road design's web site they have some good pics of there doubler with shifter I just built mine to resemble they sell.

 

[FireZapper]

Kirby, your going to need to reduce the "E" shifter housing as well.

This is before I did some grinding on it.

I didn't want to grind any more because I wasn't sure of the thickness but.

Passenger side heat shield trimming needed. Mine is not clocked so not sure of the trimming needed for clocked one.

I scored the tank xmember with a grinder then beat the crap out of it with a 5 lb mini sledge. Also notice the uopper edge is completely removed.

Also what I didn't post about is one of the tabs/case bolts hits the floor under the drivers seat. I just cut the floor and put a piece of rubber innertube over it.

 

[Kirby N.]

Thanks Ed. That helps. I slept on it and I think the stocker tank has to be moved back 1-2". No way around it. After looking at it this morning for a while I think I can move the center strap for the nk back 1-2" by moving the frame mount triangle shaped deal back. I ground off the two rivets that are easy to get to that mount the leaf spring front mount. I am going to go get my buddies air chisel and then try to get the inside ones out. I think If I move that back then the tank should slide inside the skid and I can trim the skid back to match.

 

[Kirby N.]

Whew. I decided the whole crossmember needed to go back 1.5-2". Of course it is riveted on in 12 places. Ugh. I got 10 off tonight and decided the gas tank needs to come out for the last 2. Just too close for comfort. I was working with it pulled off the frame and suspended under there. I need to go get a 3/8" quick disconnect tool tomorrow. I only have the 5/16. I am also going to see what a fuel pump costs. Might be worth not having to do this again! Tommorrow hopefully I will get the new holes drilled for the crossmember and get the tank in it's final resting place. It looks like there is 2 holes (one per side) that I can use- so that is 2 less I have to drill.

RIVETS SUCK so much. I can't get to both sides so I have been grinding the heads off, drilling with a 5/16 bit down the center, and eventually the air hammer will take them out.

 

[410Fortune]

FYI Checker, sells the carter pump for $37

I have never had to drill a rivet?? Grind the head flat with frame until you see a circle (this is key) center punch and BFH = rivet on the floor

Of course this would be with the weight of whatever I am removing supported LOL otherwise they dont want to just pop out

I wrenched all day yesterday! I got nowhere on two trucks and ended up spending $20 in gear lube! Sweet! Sunday was not a good wrench day but the garage is clean!

 

[Kirby N.]

FYI Checker, sells the carter pump for $37

I have never had to drill a rivet?? Grind the head flat with frame until you see a circle (this is key) center punch and BFH = rivet on the floor

Of course this would be with the weight of whatever I am removing supported LOL otherwise they dont want to just pop out

I wrenched all day yesterday! I got nowhere on two trucks and ended up spending $20 in gear lube! Sweet! Sunday was not a good wrench day but the garage is clean!

I wish my garage was clean! Good info on the pump. I priced them at autozone and it was like $100, so I decided I can drop it again for that. for $37 it would be worth it.

Totally works with rivets if you can get a good swing with a bfh and you can support the back of it. Infortunately my sliders, the exhaust and eveything else prevented this. Most of them I can't get to both sides either, which I have found to make all the difference- to grind both sides. Anyway, more to do tonight!! I ended up working on a friends heep all night last night and didn't get anything on mine done.

 

[Kirby N.]

My checker says carter is $77:thumbdwn:

 

[Kirby N.]

I smell like gas!

Crossmember on the floor finally:

The one bracket I had to make to keep the skid plate mount in the same location when the crossmember was relocated:

 

[Kirby N.]

And she is moved back 1.5"

I think the fuel lines will reach from my measurements, but I didn't get it up there yet to verify. May be going to the junk yard for some 4 door lines in the next few days! I have been trying to talk myself into that new fuel pump...

 

[410Fortune]

nice!

 

[Kirby N.]

Linkage

So Here is the rough in of the linkage. Someone asked for measurements, but I don't really know what to measure so?????

The inside shifter is off a 1350. I just unbolted the handle and cut off the end. The outside one is out of a 1354- same drill. The 1354 shifters are bent out and that gave me enough clearance to run them on top of eachother. The pivot tube on both were like 1.5", so I cut them down to just under .75".

2x4:

4x4 Doubled:

On the tcases, the doubler has a 1350 lever and the rear case has a 1354. Both levers had to be bent out a bit for clearance. I also clocked both shift levers to point up when I had the cases apart

I am going to weld a tab on the rear case pivot to prevent the doubler from being shifted into low before the rear case as a safety precaution. I will show more details when I get that figured out.

On a side note: I got the rear main replaced, new flywheel mounted and I I will be installing the centerforce after lunch. Hopefully I can get some help and get the tranny in tomorrow!! Woo Hoo!

Still have to bench bleed the master cylinder and install the aerostar speedo today to prepare for the tranny. Then when the tranny gets in I can redo the driveshafts and build a crossmember. I can kinda see the end in sight!

 

[RockRanger]

looks good I like the shifters. What size heims did you use?

 

[slammer67]

that linkage came out sweet

 

[RockRanger]

Could you pull a tape on your setup to see how long it is from the bellhousing to the center of the rear ujoint? that is if you havent installed it yet.

 

[Kirby N.]

looks good I like the shifters. What size heims did you use?

3/8". The threads are 3/8 x 24. The total length is 48.5"

 

[BKennedy]

Great work!

 

[Kirby N.]

ITS IN!!!

The floor mods turned out to be more involved than I expected:: A little persuasion

Here is how it fits. I had a tough time getting room to fit the speedo cable/ sensor, but it worked out eventually when I trimmed the body support.

Fits easily with the relocated tank! The tranny did have to be dropped down (while still bolted to the engine) when we installed the cases, then we lifted the whole thing up into place.

Nice and flat underbelly! (somewhat!!)

I still need to fab a crossmember. Tomorrow I am getting the driveshafts lengthened/ shortened. I am going dirtbiking in Moab thursday through sunday, so I will have a week between that and the easter jeep weekend to finish it all up!!

Let me know what you think!

 

[Kirby N.]

Driveshafts lengthened/ shortened today. $187! Boo. The rear needed a u joint too. I think I have a plan on the skid/ tranny mount maybe. Need to find some material. Maybe 1x2" tubing or some 1"x1". Not sure yet. I am going to try to get the exhaust and rear driveshaft hooked up. Maybe the shifter levers too. I have to get my wifes bike buttoned up too, so we will see.

 

[RockRanger]

Looking good. Once you use it all the work will be worth it.

 

[Kirby N.]

I am so ready to use it!

I didn't get to anything on it tonight. I had too much other stuff to do on the dirtbikes and I cleaned the garage.

What is the consensus on the tranny mounting thingy bushing? My stock one is toast so I tried to order a poly one today. Looks like no one makes one for us? I ordered one from ford. Wonder if it will last...