Completed Project Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up

[Kirby N.]

Ok! Will check. Was hopefully not for a snow day but only got a delay here.

The ground for the fuse box looks really suspect.

 

[Turdle]

Flaky relay connections can be eliminated by tightening the lugs in fuse box, slight twist at relay male lug makes it bite in tighter.

While running engine, you might try a fuse box wiggle test to see if engine stumbles while disturbing fuse box, and relays

 

[Kirby N.]

It’s actually a power wire. I did the wiggle this morning and nothing happened. We got about 6” of snow last night so the junk yard conditions are not ideal.

 

[Kirby N.]

TPS reads middle wire .99-4.75 when running. When off .96-4.72

 

[Kirby N.]

New tps when not running is .81 to 4.67

 

[Kirby N.]

When running .90 to 4.65

 

[Kirby N.]

But it idles at 1k rpm with the new tps

 

[Kirby N.]

I turned the idle screw until I got .96 and then I think the computer adjusted the idle back to 750 rpm. Because it idled up then went back down.

 

[Kirby N.]

Ok- I am making some progress. I was running a used tps for the last few months because I couldn’t get over the high idle with the new tps. So I adjusted the idle screw down to compensate and I think I may have had a bad new iac so the computer couldn’t compensate because the idle screw was down so low. So now I have a new tps and a used iac. It still settles with the idle at like 900, but it seems to be doing its thing and the truck runs smoother. I will drive it for a few days and report back.

On the starting. If I understand correctly, the computer advances timing after the engine starts to help it start better. So when it is cranking it is at base timing- like 10 degrees. After it starts it goes to 18 or whatever. I a wondering if mine is living at 18 all the time. When cranking it does cough sometimes, backfire and almost stop cranking like it is out of time. This would explain a lot. I tried to borrow a timing light but I couldn’t find a rental I’ll get one from harbor freight in the coming days.

I did check spark on cylinder 4 when starting and it has spark. I also checked that the coil is firing- disconnected all the wires one at a time while running and it was strong on each.

I also replaced the wire for the fuse box. It didn’t make a difference but it needed it so it felt good. Even though it was miserable cold today and snowing in the junk yard. Here is the one I pulled:

And the two new used ones I got today at the yard for $5

It got the one in the best shape. I also did some work on the toolbox. Getting close to paint and install.

I love snow days. Maybe I’ll get one tomorrow too.

 

[Kirby N.]

Almost forgot- on the starting- I replaced the icm with one from a friend. However, I left it loose in the engine compartment so I didn’t have to take the battery out to get the other one out. I am reading now that the icm needs a ground from one of the mounting bolts. Wondering if the current one is bad and the replacement I tried didn’t work because no ground???

 

[410Fortune]

Interesting about the power lead (can’t believe you found good ones!!) and about the ignition module Ground through mounting
Bolt??

When testing tps you are doing a sweep test and looking for a dead spot as it goes from .96 to 3.5 are there any dead spots when it drops to zero….thats how most tps fail

 

[Kirby N.]

Yeah is ground through mounting bolt a thing? I read about it on trs but it was for a 4 cylinder.

 

[410Fortune]

Not sure… I know the coil pack grounds through a mounting bolt to its metal mount base

Take a look at the loose ignition module, any metal contacts in the plastic mounting ears?

 

[Kirby N.]

There is a metal tab that slides into the stock mount and secures with one screw. On the one I am running, I cut off that tab and used two screws.

So I mounted the spare solid last night and it made no difference.

I also got a timing light and tested the timing. It seems to be behaving properly with the spout connected and disconnected. Advancing correctly and stuff.

So then I started thinking about the cks crankshaft position sensor. I cleaned the dampener pulley ridges to ensure that wasn’t an issue. Then started testing it with milla volts. I was getting a reading from it that fluctuated from .1 to 1.4. With amps I wasn’t getting anything.

I did a bunch of reading on it and I couldn’t get a clear understanding of whether I was looking for milla volts or volts, but either way it didn’t seem like it was reading enough so I decided to order a new one from ford this morning. Should have it by Wednesday.

It’s weird because it dies immediately when I pull the plug on the sensor- so that makes me think it’s doing its job, but maybe it’s just really weak???

I looked for a missing or loose ground and couldn’t find one.

 

[Kirby N.]

I am waiting on the crankshaft position sensor. So I got some things done on the toolbox.

Cut a hole in the lid for the high lift hook.

Got all the latches ready to go and mounted. All the lids are ready to go too. I cut the top last.

I got it all painted and drying now. I hope to have it installed and put it to work this week.

The snow arrived last week. It wasn’t awesome because I didn’t have a lot of my gear because I got sick of loading and unloading it out of my truck.

I made it out with a little work from a shovel.

I am going hunting soon, so I hope I can get the starting sorted.

 

[410Fortune]

look at that light fluffy stuff
the definition of snow has changed for me
Idaho snow is not like Colorado snow HAHAHA

 

[Turdle]

Will like all posts from now on for deer jerky.

Fingers crossed the new crank sensor has you hunting.

 

[Kirby N.]

Thanks! I’ll try to get some elk meat in the freezer- you’ll have to swing by and have a steak with me.

 

[Kirby N.]

look at that light fluffy stuff
the definition of snow has changed for me
Idaho snow is not like Colorado snow HAHAHA

Is this the stuff that guys in Toyotas with 44s on them aired down to 5psi drive on top of?

 

[Kirby N.]

I got the toolbox all mounted tonight. It turned out good. Flat or satin black would have hidden imperfections better, but gloss was what I had and maybe it will be more durable.

I also replaced the door hinges on the drivers side. That took way to long.

Finally, I replaced the crankshaft position sensor with the new ford unit. It made no difference.

I also replaced the o ring on the fuel pump. The last time I had it out, the oring swelled up so bad I couldn’t get it back together without cutting out a small section. So I did, but then I would smell gas because it didn’t seal. So I got one at the dealer for $2. I am really fast at changing fuel pumps now. I can get it done in about 30 minutes flat.

So I still have this hard start issue. The idle is still a little wierd. I am not sure what to do. Probably nothing before my trip. However, some ideas maybe:

1. The wiring to the fuel pump. I can buy a whole wiring harness for that section new old stock. I might just do that so I don’t have to worry.

2. The engine harness. There isn’t much there, but I may just find a junkyard unit and swap it. I cleaned it up and check it over when I did the swap, but maybe theee is something in there not right.

3. I never checked compression. Maybe I still should to that. The passenger side is a pain in the neck.