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supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

Torque specs

That's why my next house is going to be a garage with living quarters. I hate it when I have to stop what I am doing and go into the house to get something.
I think I will move into a garage and just set my furniture up around the bays.
Could you imagine waking up and opening your eyes to see a lift right in front of you. I can.
 



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That's why my next house is going to be a garage with living quarters. I hate it when I have to stop what I am doing and go into the house to get something.
I think I will move into a garage and just set my furniture up around the bays.
Could you imagine waking up and opening your eyes to see a lift right in front of you. I can.

If I was fortunate enough to have a lift, that is exactly what i'd do :D
 






That's why my next house is going to be a garage with living quarters. I hate it when I have to stop what I am doing and go into the house to get something.
I think I will move into a garage and just set my furniture up around the bays.
Could you imagine waking up and opening your eyes to see a lift right in front of you. I can.

Funny, and I got a lift and put it at my friend's garage, outside. You can come and lay under it with lawn chairs, nap etc. We just finished rebuilding the cylinders, and tested it today by lifting my Crown Vic. It is nice to have for many things, like the body swap I did(which paid for it).;)


Tim, do you have any gas there for your work space? Can you buy a vent-less heater and install it there? I just bought one that I plan to use in my home garage, when I get to doing a new gas line. It's 30k BTU and was about $200 at Northern.
 






no gas, and no place to put it. also the shed is part tent in a way because there is a canvas roof and side in the other part of it.

so i picked up a oil pump today. i walked outside at around 6ish tonight and wanted to get everything done. it takes around a hour or so depending how cold it is outside to fully heat the shed (hot enough to make you sweat even) and everything in it. so i figured if i can get it all done, i dont have the reheat it again tomorrow and wait for the block to thaw out as well. i came close.

i also smarten up tonight and brought my laptop out with me that way i have the torque specs, and patterns right there. the down side is i use it so little (lately for if i go on a road trip or data logging) that when i start it, there are a zillion updates that it wants to download and takes sometimes 10 mins to start it



set the valves. for once i looked at the instructions and didnt know that you are NOT suppose to soak the lifters in oil so they will be pumped up. or at least roller lifters. i even called comp cams to make sure. they also told me with the type of rockers, you set the lash at zero, then crank them 1/2 turn. its been awhile since i have fully put together a motor (and i dont count the 302 thats in evil right now either).



moved onto the timing chain cover and water pump.



want a little tip (if you dont know it already)? when ever you have to pull bolts out of something, grab a chunk of card board and trace the gasket onto it. then when you pull your bolts out, you stick them into the hole on the cardboard. that way you dont put any in the wrong place and disaster happens. ask me how i learned that.....



BTW, don, those are yours. don and i are replacing every bolt we can with stainless. there are a few we cant avoid however.

i forgot to take a pic of how much the lower intake is ported. trust me, lots.



i also ended up re-torquing the lower intake probably 5 or 6 times. i would let it sit for a few mins, and i am guessing it would settle and throw it out. i even went over the heads to make sure, but they were good.
i took a look down one of the runners and it is spot on with the heads. or maybe even bigger. if i would have known that, i might have dug into the heads and did a little porting, but not today, and tomorrow isnt looking any better either.

and lastly where i called it for tonight



i did get the oil filter adapter on as well. jon, i had to do what you were saying and use silicon on it. thats another thing don and i have been trying to find is the correct o rings for that. the one that comes in the gasket kit wont work (and they dont have one for the bolt either). also if you look i have the ferris wheel for a crank pulley on it, and WOW! that thing is massive. there will be just enough room to get the belt on, and i mean JUST! i figured i would put it on now, and when i pull the 302 out, i can put the supercharger mount, and supercharger on as well as all the accessorys and brackets on and hope i can find a belt that fits it rather then fighting with it all in the truck.
tomorrow i will go back out to the gas chamber, dump some oil into it and prime it. re check all the bolts. and if all is well, tape all the openings, put the plates that i got made to cover over the exhaust ports, and seal it all up until its ready to stab into the truck, which i am hoping will be in about 2 weeks depending if my buddy lets me in his shop. he to has a lift in it :D
 






Sounds good man. Glad you got it all worked out.
 






Engine

Looks like an engine again! Friggin awesome!!!!
 












Thanks Tim, I'm learning quite a bit here. Don't soak the lifters? internet lore says everywhere that you need to. Thanks for those stainless waterpump/timing bolts. I'll be able to get that much more completed on my new block before taking my truck out of service for the swap.

It blows that the o-rings are no longer available for the oil pump adapters. I guess the lack of parts is only going to get worse.

Your moving fast on this!
 






Hopefully these are not anything you have to put a torque wrench too.

....why....????:confused: and yes they are. lower intake, as well as i put them on the timing chain cover, water pump and will be using them to put the supercharger mount on. or is it that they snap easy? if thats the case i will pull them all out. i had one break on me in the fall when i put the mount on and that ended in disaster.

Thanks Tim, I'm learning quite a bit here. Don't soak the lifters? internet lore says everywhere that you need to.

im used to doing that to. it kinda threw me off a bit when i looked at the instructions. comp cams tech line even said the same thing.
 












Stainless is brittle and weakened by heat. It is not meant to stretch. Normal bolts can be stretched as that is what your doing to them when you apply torque. I wouldn't use stainless on anything that is stressed or in a hot environment. Your call, but you can find all kinds of info on this subject on the webs.
 






Stainless is brittle and weakened by heat. It is not meant to stretch. Normal bolts can be stretched as that is what your doing to them when you apply torque. I wouldn't use stainless on anything that is stressed or in a hot environment. Your call, but you can find all kinds of info on this subject on the webs.

awh crap.....well it looks like the intake bolts are coming out then....thanks for letting me know that greg. would rather battle this on the stand and not in the truck.
 












End Play

Did you check the crankshaft end play now that you have the engine back, It might be good to have that measurement (done by yourself) for future reference. That way you could periodically check the end play and see that it is still right where it was when you last tested it. Just a thought.

I have two programs called Drag Sim 5 and Dyno Sim 5. They are about 100.00 each. You can build an engine and a vehicle and import the engine into the vehicle program and see what it would run in a quarter mile etc. I just started screwing around with these programs and they seem pretty accurate.
I came up with low 12's for your truck (If you can get traction) with 347 and boost. I would like to enter more information into the programs, Do you know what the part numbers were off the cylinder heads? How about the rockers, are they 1.6's or 1.5's?


Edited, found cam part number in previous post.
 






Did you check the crankshaft end play now that you have the engine back, It might be good to have that measurement (done by yourself) for future reference. That way you could periodically check the end play and see that it is still right where it was when you last tested it. Just a thought.

I have two programs called Drag Sim 5 and Dyno Sim 5. They are about 100.00 each. You can build an engine and a vehicle and import the engine into the vehicle program and see what it would run in a quarter mile etc. I just started screwing around with these programs and they seem pretty accurate.
I came up with low 12's for your truck (If you can get traction) with 347 and boost. I would like to enter more information into the programs, Do you know what the part numbers were off the cylinder heads? How about the rockers, are they 1.6's or 1.5's?


Edited, found cam part number in previous post.

cool, but i dont think low 12's for that will happen. first being stock suspension. sure i can lock it in, but that also takes away hp. i think boost wont be higher then 9 pounds. on the original build sheet they say they are TFS FAC Wedge (2.02, 1.60, 62cc). if you have to put a weight in, i weighed it 2 years ago and it was 4340 without me in it (lets not go there with me in it..) 1.6 rockers, TMH's size is everything but ideal (i think 1 1/2) with a 2 1/2 primary. oh, no cats either.

as for end play, i will be checking it before it goes in, and if i can after its in. i am also going to be looking over the oil real good for the first few changes.
BTW, thanks for the peer pressure on facebook! LOL if i somehow manage to come down there this summer i have a bad feeling everyone may now be egging me on to go to atco. i think tara (explorersport77) said she will be there doing her photo thing.

as for the motor, i went on ARP's site and they also have stainless bolt kits for the intakes. however, they also have a chart on what you should or should not torque stainless bolts to. i also talked to a few buddys of mine, and they have ran stainless on their stuff, getting them from the same place i get them (a industrial fastener place in town here) and have never had a problem. i also primed the motor last night at i think the cost of a brand new drill (she was smoking pretty good when i was done) then i ran out of propane. so once again, when i find some motivation, i will wander back out to the gas chamber and finish it, and seal up the motor.
 






Great progress, keep at it. I'm sure it will fly when it's done, plenty quick enough to be a blast to ride in.

I'd run the SS bolts too, and it's not an issue to worry about. Torque them right like any bolt good enough for the job, they should be fine. I've got most of the ARP kits myself, and I wish they made some of those odd sizes(plus the threaded end type), so we could do the whole engine with them. Lubricate or use anti-seize and thread sealant on the bolts which can take it. The head bolts you know need to be just oiled and get good torque results.
 






DONE!

10968035_10152659886722513_61419775_n.jpg


need to set the cam sensor, but otherwise its all buttoned up until i can start putting in the truck. now the even longer wait begins.....
 






I'll dig that cam sensor doohickey out for setting it. I really didn't think you would have that motor together in a matter of days.
 






I'll dig that cam sensor doohickey out for setting it. I really didn't think you would have that motor together in a matter of days.

yea, i was kinda slow doing it wasnt it i :D no rush, that is something that can be done when its in the truck.
 



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I used the stainless ARP kit for the intake bolts on my engine too. I can't remember but I don't think I did on the timing chain cover because so many of them are specialized for the supercharger kit, etc.. plus you can't see them at all once the engine is in the truck - same for the oil pan.

Tim, throughout this whole build I get a mixture of excitement and anxiety. It reminds me a lot of when I put mine together but the fact that your compression is higher than mine really makes me think you will make more power (it should anyhow). This is why I would even drive down to AFN a day earlier to go to the drag strip!
 






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