The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

The only good Varmint's, are DEAD Varmint's!!!

So the rig has been sitting for awhile, and about once a week, I let it run for a bit to keep the juices flowing. Today was another one of those days. I started it, and walked away for about 10 minutes or so. Came back to find a nice big puddle of raw fuel on the driveway! Looked under and seen the problem instantly.

In the last week or so, I'm guessing the Squirrel's decided that the top of the fuel tank was a good spot to sit around and have a snack. The 3" body lift creates plenty of room for them. They chewed threw the wire harness sleeve, but I don't think they broke a single wire, as it runs just fine.

I guess they decided that the rubber high pressure line was tastier, and managed to chew right into it. It squirts pretty hard when engine is running. SMDH!!

So, this line is under pressure, and I am assuming it is the feed line to the fuel rail. Since I have yet to drop this tank, and know how the lines are connected in the frame rail, I am not sure how to fix this. There has to be a pressure connector on the other end of this line that goes to the hard fuel line, right? I can't see it, and am afraid I have to drop the tank to find out, or to get my hands on it.

This is not a welcome repair, as I have other work to start on very soon. A week long wheeling trip is coming up in a month, a few states away, and I barely have time to get ready for that as is.

If I drop the tank for a new fuel line, the pump is getting replaced too. The pellet guns are at the ready, and any rodent I see, is getting blasted!!

 

[CDW6212R]

That fuel line runs to the fuel filter if it's the bigger line, I hope it's not the smaller return line. I had to replace mine a few years ago, the PO had really twisted the flexible part and I was lucky to get the connections off twice before.

I bought the new used line from Karl here. I told him to fold it in half and put it in a box half the length. He did a great job at rolling it in the middle and the box was about 1'x1'x3' long. I dropped the tank and carefully removed the old line from the clamps it's held in with. It took a good 30-45 minutes to R&R the line from the frame.

For a pump, consider the HFP brand, it's the quietest and has a lifetime warrantee, about $53 from Amazon for the HFP-382 unit, which is made for the Explorer(wiring adapter). Check the application, this one fits the 98's, I'm not sure if 1995-98 had no changes. I've read about odd tank assemblies.
https://www.amazon.com/HFP-382-Replacement-Fuel-Strainer-Installation/dp/B004MUI7OA

I was buying the higher output version yesterday, so I have called them and he gave me that number. I bought two of the HFP-342's, which is the 255ltr/hr version, those were $70 each.

 

[gmanpaint]

Well, I got the trap door cut out, and was able to have a closer look at the Varmint carnage. Removed the little line clamp, and pulled the tubing back, and yep, there it was.

Don, you are right, it is the larger line. The little bastage just had to chew at it, right next to the metal crimp. I looked into the frame rail, and I do not see another disconnect anywhere, and after reading what you said, it must be one continuous line to the filter. I would have to remove the slider to feed a new line, and I'm definitely not wanting to go thru that.

I think I am going to try to install a new disconnect end to the hose. I was told that there are barbed end / clamped disconnects I can buy at the parts stores.

While I have this apart, I am going to get a new pump assembly. The problem with mine is there are 3 different models for this rig. I have to remove the old one and see what it is, before ordering anything new. Thanks for the heads up on the brand!

Always something!!

The leak is where I am pointing at.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's right where mine was twisted badly, loose enough I was amazed it didn't leak.

How little space do you have between the frame pocket and the sliders, near the filter and the tank flexible lines? It wasn't bad to run it in there along the stock frame pocket, I'm not sure if you could do it with yours. If a new stock line could be installed, I would do that. Dealing with the plastic lines and installing barbed ends is hell. I had to do the four ends of the lines of an 86 Crown Vic, to install an EFI 302 instead of the OEM carb. I was able to use the stock plastic lines, but they had lower pressure hoses, so I swapped the end pieces from an EFI car. Using a hair dryer or heat gun is hard, the working space you have is important too. You only need to do one, so maybe that's not so bad. Be careful around those cut holes of the floorboard, I saw that thread and still don't think I want to go that route. I hate dropping a tank, but it's not a job you do very often.

 

[gmanpaint]

Sliders are 3 sandwich clamped mounts. and all are in the way. I was wondering what the lines are made of, and you just helped me there. I never did a barbed end repair disconnect on Nylon before, and would have to learn how. Ack.. This is getting more & more depressing.

I am going to take care around the cut metal. I have thick rubber repair tape that I am going to use on the edges to create a seal for the hinged door.

 

[CDW6212R]

The lines are steel for all but the maybe foot of flexible nylon/plastic at each end. You can bend it readily if needed and bend it back straight.

What do the replacement ends look like, and do they have directions to say a real heat gun is needed, or what temp? If you only have to do the one, maybe that won't be bad. You need to have a good leverage on the plastic line in one hand, and be able to hold the new barbed end strongly in the other. It takes quite a bit of effort to force the end into the hose, fully. The last 1/4" or so is the hardest part. With enough heat put into the hose, you have to move the heat away and really fast grab the barbed end and push it into the hose. It cools down quickly, waiting several seconds makes a difference.

 

[gmanpaint]

I ordered the Dorman 800-050 ford fuel line repair kit, and it should arrive in a couple days. It has the female end that connects to the metal tube on the sender, then has 18" of nylon line, trim to size needed. Comes with a double ended brass barb insert, to splice the old nylon line to it. I haven't seen any directions for it yet, and hopefully it comes with some. I have heat guns, and someone suggested using boiling water to soften the line to install the barbed splice connector. I will follow thru with this and post up when I do it.

I am removing the fuel pump tomorrow, and getting that part number off it. I want to order it, and get it changed asap. I have a rubber floor mat covering the hole I made, and hoping that dang Varmint, doesn't find it's way inside the rig. lol

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good. You have a real heat gun, so you should be able to quickly get the barbed end hot enough. Being what sounds like a good metal part, you can hopefully hold it with a Vice Grip pliers, and then you'll have very good control(in theory). It doesn't take long to heat the thing with a hot air source, so the boiling water idea never made much sense to me, that would take a while and it only gets it to 212* or so.

If you might like to try the HFP pumps, I can post their phone number so you could directly talk to them about the application. I've spoken to Shawn twice their, once weeks ago and then Friday. He confirmed the part I wanted was the right one with the proper wiring adapter, and he gave me the other replacement part number, which would be other 98-01 pumps. I should have the two I ordered Friday, today from Amazon.

 

[gmanpaint]

So, he sells threw Amazon I take it. I like that. I will most def take his info, and check into pricing/availability. Thanks!

I want to replace the entire assembly on this, as I am sure it is still stock, and closing in on 200K. I will keep the stock pump for a trail spare, as it still works. We all know it is just a matter of time before it dies, and I would rather do it now, instead of away on a trip somewhere.

I was thinking about this pump, and how it will confuse the counter people at my local parts stores. I decided I trust a 5 yr old, more then them. I was going to take the pump directly to My Ford parts counter guy, for an accurate pump ID, and his price. Then begin my shopping for price/availability.

 

[CDW6212R]

Do you mean you want to change the whole pickup assembly? I ask because a newer member here was posting about his in a 98 Mountaineer. He was pricing on Rock Auto, and he wants to go at the Motorcraft part($400+ from Ford), and RA has it for $250 or so.

I liked the other choices from under $100 to $150, brands are tough to pick when you don't know most of them. If you might get the whole assembly, I'd learn if the 95 pickup will swap with the next common version, the 98 is the standard for return type(99-01 are slightly different).

Unless something is much different inside the 95 tanks(the pocket at the bottom where the sock goes etc, then the 98 assembly could bolt right in. So if they do swap, get the 98 version, then you'll know what pump it takes for sure, for the future, and everybody carries it without seeing the old one. Just a thought if you had to get the whole set of parts anyway.

 

[CDW6212R]

The phone number for HFP(High Flow Fuel Com) is 1-818-574-3835. I think they have normal 9-5 kinds of hours.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yes, I want to replace the entire assembly, not just the pump and sock. I put this rig in remote destinations. Peace of mind thing for me.
Because there are 3 types used in this rig, I want to take it to Ford for P/N verification.

I always check RA for pricing & projects, but if I am in a hurry, I use Amazon Prime for faster delivery.

Thanks for the contact info!

 

[gmanpaint]

Alright, so after removing the pump assembly, the assembly is in perfect condition. That can stay. Sweet!

So I looked up the mentioned HFP pumps on Amazon, and it says this unit is a direct replacement for the 95.

https://www.amazon.com/HFP-A27-Repl...995:ford:explorer&keywords=fuel+pump+assembly

It looks like all I have to do is remove the stock pump housing, and replace it with this complete unit, and install the sock filter, instead of gutting the old housing for the pump motor. Just a simple bolt on, and 2 new wire connectors. Hopefully it comes with fuel resistant wire connectors. Price is great, made and shipped in the good Ole USA. Hard to beat that, considering my stock unit might be from Mexico, Canada, etc...

I will wait until it arrives, before I disassemble the stock assembly. Thanks for the product heads up Don!

 

[CDW6212R]

Cool, is that what yours looks like, interesting. I don't know if that one will come with the sock/strainer, but the HFP representative said the strainers they send with pumps, often several, work in some applications. So they seem to be trying to provide plenty of parts, but sometimes the OEM strainer is different than what they include. He just told me to compare the old strainer to the new ones. It's nice they send something, most pumps don't include anything but the hoses and clamps, and maybe a wiring adapter.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yes sir, looks just like that.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Hard to beat that, considering my stock unit might be from Mexico, Canada, etc...

hope for canada eh! we dont have time to drink tequila because we are on our dog sleds, or shovelling the driveway

 

[gmanpaint]

The new HFP Pump arrived today.

It came with zero, instructions, hardware, etc... for the pump itself. What it did include was instructions on how to go to Amazon and give them a good review to increase their business. Okay....Hmmm. Well, they did a good job on packaging. It did arrive fast as they said, but I used Prime 2 day shipping anyways. It isn't damaged, and looks to be a match, (except the sock is smaller then the one I removed). So.. they got that going for them. lol I never give feedback/reviews until I know it works, and only time will tell how well, and for how long it works.

It would have been nice to have a diagram, and basic instructions, from them included. I have to guess how the metal fuel lines come out and go back in the new pump & housing. I'm sure I can figure it out, but knowing I did it right by following instructions gives peace of mind, and reassurance. To me, if your selling retail to the general public, and not just wholesale to business, you probably shouldn't take it for granted, that everybody knows exactly how your product is supposed to work. The fuel resistant connectors & line gasket washers, is what I really wanted included. I need to go source them from a parts store. So that means another day before I can install it.

Ok, so the nit-picky cons are out of the way, and the pros are that they do include a lifetime warranty/free replacement, this unit supposedly runs quieter, and GPM output is better then stock. Not having to gut the old housing to reuse it, is a big bonus to me. This thing has been soaking in fuel for 23 years, and no telling what could happen when disassembling it. We all know how well Ford's clips, tabs, connectors hold up with age. lol

Here you can see the new pump/housing next to the old complete pump assembly. I can't open it up and have a look at the pump itself because they already installed the filter sock. I am told that's a one time deal for the filter, as it breaks, and no longer usable once removed.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ah, so what they call a specific part for that Explorer, doesn't come with all of the parts you'd like to replace. Sorry to hear that. The three kits I received were the simpler type with just a pump and the various rubber isolators, hose, clamps, and wiring, plus 3-4 strainers that I likely will not use. For mine the normal strainers will still work, OEM or what parts stores carry.

Yeah the sock/strainer is made to go on and not come off, without hurting the little tabs etc. Some have the cute little spring loaded concave monster that can sometimes be removed without breaking the sprung nature of it. I've done that just to see if I could. But usually you can get a sock the same day when you can go to a store.

Is the wiring on your model made such that you have to cut it and splice it to the old wiring?

 

[gmanpaint]

Yes, I have to cut and splice it to the new pump wires. I called around for some PTFE type connectors (safe for fuel submersion) and nobody knew what they sold was made of. Napa guy said their pumps come with the M/F connectors with heat shrink ends, but can't sell them separate.

I said F it, and soldered them together, & heat shrinked em, as I didn't feel like searching all over the planet or inter-webs on a goose chase.
The new pump wires are twice as long as needed, and the after cutting the old connectors off, I had like 1.5" of wire left on the assembly to work with. SMH

I did learn that the new pump housing isn't "exactly" the same.

It is missing the bolt hole nipple on top, and there is nowhere to else to attach the assembly on top. I used that old bolt on the float tab, as there was one slot open.

Also, there is 3 holes on top of both housings. 2 for the fuel lines, and 1 that has an unknown purpose to me. The 3rd hole has a metal insert in it, with little fingers inside, like it would grip onto a tube if inserted. Almost looks like the fingers on a fuel line disconnect.

The stock unit, has a blue rubber gasket insert (look in picture above), that has a lower tight end to the return fuel line. The new housing, has what it looks like black rubber gaskets inside the holes for both tubes.

These are the pitfalls of buying a do it yourself unit, instead of buying the complete unit ready to drop in. All in all, if it works, it saved a ton of cash doing it this way.

I got it back together, and ready to drop back in the tank, but called it a day, as I ran out of daylight. Oh well, back at it after work tomorrow. Damn Varmint's!!

 

[CDW6212R]

That sounds like the typical repair, solve some issues along the way, but get it done. The wire insulation isn't a problem other than protecting the wire from corrosion. I hope that works just fine.

The unit as a whole in the volume it takes up looks similar to the later versions. Maybe you might turn up a spare 97/98 assembly for the next time you might have to go in there, and check the fit.

I just came in from mowing 85% of my back yard. I just had the drive system for my walk behind Snapper break. It's a great mower when it's right, but the parts are interesting to figure out what goes where, and buy the replacement pieces. I'll dig up the model number and begin taking it apart soon. Night,