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Torsion bars

cthp9933

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April 1, 2023
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City, State
Lebanon, PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Ford Explorer XLT
I have an '00 explorer XLT 4wd 4.0 sohc. My lower control arm/ball joints are shot and I want to replace them. My buddy says it's best to replace the torsion bars as well due to them being dangerous when old and remounted. I am currently unable to locate the left/passenger side bar. Does anyone know where to find one or a better route to go?
 



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Unless they have severe rust I wouldn't worry about it, I've been a ford technician since 1988 and can't remember ever replacing a torsion bar unless it was broken on a wrecked vehicle.
 






usually if anything these wear out but havent seen any break u less they are installed the wrong way (ie left goes on right) or there is severe secere rust. honestly wouldnt worry about it imo
 






The left/passenger side appears to be in good shape except the lower ball joint/bushings. Can those be replaced without relieving the tension on the control arm and torsion bar?
 






I haven’t done a LCA in so long I can’t remember

To change the ball joint, you don’t need to mess with the torsion bar other than moving the control arm as required
 






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It happens
 






I have an '00 explorer XLT 4wd 4.0 sohc. My lower control arm/ball joints are shot and I want to replace them. My buddy says it's best to replace the torsion bars as well due to them being dangerous when old and remounted. I am currently unable to locate the left/passenger side bar. Does anyone know where to find one or a better route to go?
1. When you purchase replacement ball joints. Make sure they are the greasable ones.
2. It is normal, to have the ball joint fit loosely in the arm. You will not have to press in or out the existing or replacement.
3. My torsion bars are original. What read on the forum is about the torsion arm pads.
 












2. It is normal, to have the ball joint fit loosely in the arm. You will not have to press in or out the existing or replacement.

My lower BJs didn't fit at all loosely in the control arm. Factory originals had to be pressed out, sanded away a little rust in the control arm hole (not an extreme amount) and had to press in new BJs. The regular (not oversized) diameter Moogs (K8695T) was what I used.

I'm wondering if your BJs had previously been replaced, and there was a lot of rust that had to be removed last time, and this left an enlarged hole?

I wouldn't want them fitting loosely, would get the oversized diameter BJs or try to get a shim in.
 
























Not a very common failure, but here's another:
 






I’ve had some BJs that had to be pressed in, along with heat/freeze. I’ve had others that went in with a few taps.

If it falls in, I believe they have oversized BJs out there
 






Look for 2010 ranger torsion bars on a Ford parts site. Replace as a pair. They are different lengths, side to side, and can be installed backward. Rotational direction arrow should face front of truck I believe.
 






The left/passenger side appears to be in good shape except the lower ball joint/bushings. Can those be replaced without relieving the tension on the control arm and torsion bar?
The torsion bars are attached to the LOWER control arms...

IF you replace the lower control arms, you will have to release the torsion bars. IF you just replace the ball joints, the torsion bars can remain in place.

Good luck and be careful.
 






I’ve had some BJs that had to be pressed in, along with heat/freeze. I’ve had others that went in with a few taps.

If it falls in, I believe they have oversized BJs out there
The factory ball joint were loose in the lower control arm and so where the replacement. It was in the OEM control arm.
 






2. It is normal, to have the ball joint fit loosely in the arm. You will not have to press in or out the existing or replacement.
^ Not true. See Moog "Problem Solver" link below.

My lower BJs didn't fit at all loosely in the control arm. Factory originals had to be pressed out, sanded away a little rust in the control arm hole (not an extreme amount) and had to press in new BJs. The regular (not oversized) diameter Moogs (K8695T) was what I used.

I'm wondering if your BJs had previously been replaced, and there was a lot of rust that had to be removed last time, and this left an enlarged hole?

I wouldn't want them fitting loosely, would get the oversized diameter BJs or try to get a shim in.

I’ve had some BJs that had to be pressed in, along with heat/freeze. I’ve had others that went in with a few taps.

If it falls in, I believe they have oversized BJs out there
Exactly. If oversized still fits loose it's time for a new lower control arm.
https://www.rockauto.com/info/Moog/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_29009.pdf
 









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^ Something funny going on then, maybe defective factory control arm due to excessive hole size, led to premature BJ failure?

Did you have a cause to replace the other side and find it also that loose? Both my left and right front seemed about the same, a tight fit but not tight enough to have any problem using a BJ press kit, and I probably applied some penetrant ahead of time.
 






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