1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea | Page 9 | Ford Explorer Forums

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1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea

Yes, the right bolts are a finer thread than a typical SAE bolt about that diameter. Clean the threads a little if they seem full of crud.
 



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The upper intake bolts work to pull balancer , fyi
You mean to stick into the hole in the crank and push against with the bolt on the puller?
 












Oh okay. I figured they'd be too long for that. I guess you mean the short ones though.
 






I got the P/S pump and reservoir pulled off last night. It took me a minute to realize I had to pry off the AC compressor (after removing 4 bolts on side) due to the bosses/sleeves on the back of it that press into the P/S bracket.

I used the same technique to remove the balancer bolt as I did on my 4.0: wrap a cut, old belt clockwise around pulley, tie off on alternator bracket bolt, pop the bolt loose with a breaker bar:
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There's other ways to do it, but they all seem harder or riskier or need special tools.

Although disassembly is taking me a while (I only get to work on it about 45 min a night), I've been pleasantly surprised how trouble-free it's been. I'll probably eat my words when I pull the balancer or timing cover haha. For a 190k truck with rust in the quarters, the fasteners in the engine bay are remarkably not corroded -- most of the bolts still have their yellow chromate over the zinc:
1694694631593.png

This makes me think the rust in the quarters is primarily a result of the Mounty having driven on rural roads for all its life and the gravel just ate away all the sealant on welded seams around the back wheels. It sure doesn't seem like the vehicle was driven through nasty salt that eats a whole car from bottom to top. While the rust in the quarters and rockers isn't ideal, I also won't feel bad about using the truck as a winter beater/farm truck -- and it should be a very good one at that.

Last side note, I realized in the oil drip pan you can see my under hood light's reflection and that's the night sky surrounding it. Yep, I'm doing all this work outside at night. My days are too busy and I don't have a garage anymore -- the old me would've used those as excuses but I've come to realize that if I waited for the perfect time and place, I'd never get anything done. So do your best with what you have (even if it's just a cracked concrete slab in a field) and keep on wrenching!
 






Well done!! The balancer will slide right off once the puller is setup

Don’t forget the 4 bolts that go vertically into the timing cover through the oil pan
 






Got sidetracked last night but still found time to pull the balancer -- it was uneventful. Now I want to clean off all this sludge before pulling the timing cover so as little as possible falls into the oil pan.
1694779145915.png

I'm curious what you all use for this purpose. I've tried a lot of different degreasers through the years and have found kerosene to be my favorite for loosening up the crud. I just spray it from a cheap plastic bottle, scrub with a brush, then spray more to get the oily gunk to run off. Once all that's left is kerosene residue, I clean that off with simple green and a hot water rinse.
 






A year ago, after I pulled the balancer/pulley/tone ring assembly off of my 5.0, I wasn't quite sure when I would be back to reinstalling it, so I smeared wheel bearing grease on the crank snout to keep it from rusting. Recently after an open hood inspection, I noticed that doing this did keep the crank from rusting which would have been a bad thing to try to force the hb back onto a rusty crankshaft.
 






Use aluminum foil to keep crap
Out of oil pan but I still drain the oil and leave the plug out so any coolant thay drops in there will
Flow out. Then I pour a half quart of cheapo oil through the area to Flush any debris out the pan

I use gunk foamy engine brite and also castrol super clean at times
 






I hit my first big slowdown with the timing cover. All the bolts came out easy (some were already loose like the water pump) but the cover will not lift out of the oil pan.

I know the 5.0 TC has a lip (unlike the 4.0 TC) and has to pull up before out. I think the challenge is that the bottom side of the TC is adhered to the pan with silicone completely across the bottom side, not just at the corners. I've been scoring everything I can with a razor, but still can't lift the cover more than 1/16".

Any ideas? I'm considering trying to lift the cover out with a jack and block of wood.
 






Dowel pins about halfway up that have to clear before you go up. Move top of cover toward front first.
 






Oh thank goodness I didn't try the jack yet!

About how far does the top need to come forward? I don't want to use a prybar, maybe a plastic panel remover tool would help me get leverage
 






About an inch, don’t worry it will come off
Make sure you got all 4 bolts that go up from the oil pan
Now you have to get the timing cover off the dowls and then it will finally release
Don’t be afraid to pry the top out about an inch maybe inch and. A half and then wiggle and shake and then finally it will release. It’s not the gasket or oil pan lip, it’s the dowls on the bottom/middle bolts

I often do these timing covers in the truck, I keep a good one around just in case I ***** up the aluminum too much when removing one. That doesn’t happen very often, you can do it!
 






Got it! Thanks for the tips!
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I was really glad to have a cone wrench to hold the inner nut while the outer nut was spinning one stud last night. These thin wrenches are for adjusting bicycle hubs but they work on other stuff too.
1000001012.jpg
 






Uh sweet! Why do I not have one of these!!!

Well done!!!
 






I was a bicycle mechanic in my younger days. Gotta love speciality tools.

What do y'all use to cut the front of the oil pan gasket off when redoing timing cover with the engine in the vehicle? Chilton manual says cut flush to the block with a razor, but I feel like there's no way a razor is going to cut that steel.
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Two options here
Re use that gasket clean on top and underneath, use liberal amounts of permatex ultra

Use snips, dremmel, rzr,
Multi tool to cut that gasket and introduce the new gasket bits, again using permatex to seal the corners

Whichever you choose clean is the key to making it seal
 






Makes sense. I thought maybe there was some silver bullet I wasn't thinking of. The Dremel approach makes me nervous about hitting the pan, but the snips sound like they may just mangle the gasket. I think I'll try the Dremel to score the steel 90% of the way, then finish with a razor.
 



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