1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea

[410Fortune]

Pull engine for proper repairs

 

[Turdle]

Dribble a little brake fluid into the threads of the stuck bolt, and let it sit a while. Or, what 410 said. You might want a new rear main seal , so that might be best in the long run.

 

[allmyEXes]

Nope, not torch. Is there just a little of the bolt head remaining? Maybe use a Dremel type tool with a miniature cut wheel?
I've been on the fence about removing my lower intake while I'm doing the other things. I think I will let mine be until later when the engine is out. I don't ever remember having trouble with these 4 bolts when I was working on old 289s and 302s with cast iron intakes. It must be an aluminum intake issue. The dissimilar metals oxidizing together.

 

[97Sandbox]

Pull engine for proper repairs

I really wish I could! Even if I bought a hoist, an engine stand, and a more serious torch setup, I don't have a place to keep an engine out of the weather while I work on it. Heading into the winter, this project is looking like an increasingly bad idea. I'm getting pretty close to admitting defeat and starting over in the spring.

Dribble a little brake fluid into the threads of the stuck bolt, and let it sit a while.

Is there any way to get to the threads on the rear lower intake bolts? I could definitely try that if I grind the bolt head off and pull the manifold.

I'm less worried about the exhaust studs, I've been spraying those down with penetrant daily for the last couple weeks. They're so rusted though, I think there's a good chance they'll all break no matter what. At least for those access wouldn't be so bad for extractor bits.

You might want a new rear main seal , so that might be best in the long run.

I absolutely will need a new rear main, but I intended to do that when the trans would come out for the manual swap. I'm not arguing that pulling the engine isn't the best long-term path, it's just not really in the cards for me right now.

 

[97Sandbox]

Nope, not torch. Is there just a little of the bolt head remaining? Maybe use a Dremel type tool with a miniature cut wheel?

I was actually using a Dremel cutoff wheel on my die grinder (I have an adapter collet so I can use Dremel size shanks instead of the normal 1/4" ones). If the angle grinder doesn't have any good access, I'll want to order a pack of the Dremel wheels -- their twist lock design is nice.

I've been on the fence about removing my lower intake while I'm doing the other things. I think I will let mine be until later when the engine is out. I don't ever remember having trouble with these 4 bolts when I was working on old 289s and 302s with cast iron intakes. It must be an aluminum intake issue. The dissimilar metals oxidizing together.

Yeah, I wish I'd left the lower intake alone. But the Mounty had lean codes for both cylinder banks, so replacing upper and lower intake gaskets seemed like the right thing to do. The bolts I'm struggling with go into the iron block still, not the aluminum intake manifold. I'm sure the steel bolt shanks are somewhat corroded to the manifold, but I think the bigger issue for me is how corroded the threads are in the block, which wouldn't be a galvanic corrosion situation (not by much anyway).

 

[Turdle]

Nope, not torch. Is there just a little of the bolt head remaining? Maybe use a Dremel type tool with a miniature cut wheel?
I've been on the fence about removing my lower intake while I'm doing the other things. I think I will let mine be until later when the engine is out. I don't ever remember having trouble with these 4 bolts when I was working on old 289s and 302s with cast iron intakes. It must be an aluminum intake issue. The dissimilar metals oxidizing together.

The head design allows exposure to end of bolts, in the cast iron head.

Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread

Thanks Mark. I will refer to the chart. Since I had a little time and a dremmel tool with sanding drum I used Don's idea and got this. By golly I think the nut is a thread lower now. Compare to post 495 That should help a little. :D

www.explorerforum.com

 

[410Fortune]

Once the intake is off the repair gets much easier yes
They can be center punched drilled and tapped

No giving up allowed! Keep at it

 

[97Sandbox]

The head design allows exposure to end of bolts, in the cast iron head.

Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread

Thanks Mark. I will refer to the chart. Since I had a little time and a dremmel tool with sanding drum I used Don's idea and got this. By golly I think the nut is a thread lower now. Compare to post 495 That should help a little. :D

www.explorerforum.com

I just saw in your old posts the intake bolt holes go completely through the head? I have to start spraying the underside too then. At least for the front stud I broke.

Once the intake is off the repair gets much easier yes
They can be center punched drilled and tapped

No giving up allowed! Keep at it

Sounds good. New approach: grind off the bolt head, then start the drilling/extracting/welding.

I promise I won't give up for good, but there will come a time in the not too distant future that I have to take an extended hiatus from the Mounty (baby#2 due in November). I'd sure rather leave things in a good spot than a bad one if I can though!

 

[Turdle]

Making babies and chicken coops up in here.

 

[97Sandbox]

Making babies and chicken coops up in here.

Well we need someone to help on the farm!

I stay busy, that's for sure hahaha.

 

[410Fortune]

My whole world revolves around the kids!!

Yes all 4 of those lower intake bolts are exposed to atmosphere on the bottom
When they are hot spray the bottom and it will wick the penetrant up into the threads (hopefully)

 

[97Sandbox]

Sweet, thanks for all the tips guys. I was able to get the bolt plenty red hot with the welder, so I feel like my chances are decent I can break stuff free once the manifold is off and I can really get at the areas the threads are seized in.

Exhaust manifolds will be a whole different set of trial and error but intake is my priority.

 

[97Sandbox]

Got the stripped bolt head ground off and popped the lower intake loose. Only trouble is the manifold is hanging up on the shanks of what we're the rear two fasteners and there's no easy way to pry back there.

I tried using a socket on one of the upper intake bolts like a slide hammer and it wasn't enough.

Then I devised a "lifting bar" technique

Looks like the first iteration bar is too thin. I do feel like this technique will work with thicker gauge angle or tubing though, just need to make another bar.

Any other good techniques for lifting at the rear of the manifold?

 

[allmyEXes]

@97Sandbox So are what is remaining of the bolts after the heads were cut off stuck or oxidized to the aluminum intake?
I can't remember if you said you had an engine hoist or not but with a hoist and a plate similar to this you may could get a more centered, firmer pull.

The picture is of one off of E-bay. Link below to an Amazon one.
Amazon engine lift plate
Advance and Autozone have them locally.
You would need to flip the lifting bracket upside down along with your middle gasket to mark a series of holes to be drilled to be able to bolt to the Mountaineer 5.0 intake.
Or for a few more dollars on E-bay a USA made tool made for the 5.0 intake.

 

[97Sandbox]

I do not have a hoist although I will be needing one eventually. I like that those plates have multiple holes, I may be able to run a bar at an angle and catch two bolts instead of one with my diy lifting bar. Thanks for the idea!

 

[allmyEXes]

If you purchase a hoist and are forced to leave it outside for the winter or whenever, remove the hydraulic cylinder except when you are using it. Also, a drain hole needs to be drilled in the bottom of the upright square tube, the piece that holds the boom.

 

[410Fortune]

You got all the bolts
Out? Typically the intake comes right up with a little prying. You maybe fighting the corrosion around those broken studs
I like your
Lifting bar idea, it will work with a stronger bar!

Good work! Keep at it

 

[97Sandbox]

Yep all bolts out (they're just resting in the manifold so I don't lose them), I checked over and over haha.

I do think the manifold is hung up on the back two bolt chunks -- the front and middle is lifting off the block just fine. I will make a heavier lifting bar!

 

[410Fortune]

Pull the drain plug so the oil and water does not sit in the pan

 

[97Sandbox]

Good reminder. I flushed the pan with some old 5w30 after I did the TC but I'll have to do it again