Completed Project Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up

[410Fortune]

It will be fine!!

 

[Kirby N.]

Thanks man. I hope so!

I think i got some issues sorted, but I still might have a lingering electrical issue. The only thing I can think of is that a few years ago I had an issue with the wiring harness on the drivers side frame rail. I didn't notice it for years, but it turned out when I did the leaf spring conversion to the 53" springs- I drilled into some wires that go to the fuel pump. I think I fixed them well, but I am wondering if they are causing problems again.

When I am cruising down the highway at 75 mph, usually near a quarter of a tank or so of gas, every once in a while the truck will act like I just turned the key to the off position and turned it back on. It will do it over and over, sometimes pretty violently. I thought it had to be the fuel pump, but after all these fuel pump issues it still lingers, so I dont think that is/ was it.

It is not throwing a code, and doesn't do it for an extended period- usually I will stop and fill up with fuel and it will quit. It seems to do it more when it is hot outside (I thought the fuel pump was overheating).

I decided to try a coil. Ford had it for relatively cheap and I thought it was something I hadn't changed yet, so why not.

I also read on the ranger station that someone had a theory that the coil pack grounds through the bracket- to the base of the pack. said it seemed to affect the idle. I know I painted mine, so I thought it might be worth a try.

It didn't seem to do a thing. I still have the high idle, but it isn't obnoxious- its just a little high. This didn't help.

We got a decent snow storm this week. I had a good time pulling out some vehicles, then I ripped down the highway in 4 hi. I think I mentioned it before- but my transfer case has been leaking profusely out of the front output I have changed the seal twice and it just doesn't seem to help. perhaps the bearing is going- there was a little slop in it- but nothing crazy. I also thought that before I got the limit straps, the front driveshaft could have been running out of travel and wore the bearing or bent the front output or something. So I have just been filling it and trying to get by until I have time to put in the doubler. I also got a rebuild kit from rock auto.

Anyway, I filled the transfer case recently. Maybe a week or two ago- when I had it on the lift. Unfortunately, I think ripping down the highway in 4 hi spit all the fluid out! It started really snarling at me, and was even causing the truck to lurch and seize a little at slow speeds. It was making a huge racket. When I got home two nights ago, my driveway was a little treacherous to get up and I needed to go back into 4 hi. I locked in the hubs and held pressure on the shifter- it wouldn't go back as far as it should for 4x4 and it just sounded awful with some pops and bangs- but got up the driveway. I needed to drive it yesterday so I did, but again it sounded awful.

So today I had the day off and junking I went. My old man was down for a trip around so we drove his truck. We hit 3 yards before I found a 1354 manual. It sucked working in the snow and mud, but I didn't have a lot of choice. Found this jewel about 1 hour from my house at the 3rd junk yard we visited. It was in a 1997 XL with a 3.0. Had 200k miles.

I got it put in this evening and she is tight and quiet. It sucked a little to do transfer case work without putting in the doubler, but I really need my truck this week/ weekend and I dont have time for all that is involved with the doubler- fabing the crossmember, modding driveshafts and sorting out the shifters- so it will have to wait.

Funny thing is, when I got the old one out (covered in oil) I am sure the chain is now completely broke. It won't even turn the front output in any position. I noticed when I drove it today on the way to my dads to swap the cases, it would shift in and out of 4x4 while going at highway speeds- front hubs not locked. So it is definitely apart in the insides. Normally, I would never do this- but its worth $27 for a core, so I think I am going to take it in for that. Seems silly with the hard to find Manual 1354s, but I did find one today.

If anyone has any ideas on my electrical/ fuel issue- please let me know. I think I might try to check that wiring issue I had before and see if that is still holding together well. Otherwise, I might replace the ignition control module. Everything I replace, I figure has 345K on it, and even if it doesn't fix it its another thing that is new and will go another 345k.

 

[410Fortune]

You say it’s
Like you turn the key on and off, does the dash light up too? Could be ignition switch or possibly pcm relay issue? Battery cables and connections?

I had a red top optima once that lost a cell it worked ok until it didn’t I had 12
Bolts for starting but not 12.2 or 12.4 and when running everything acted normal running on the alternator…
But once in a while it would
Act like no battery hard to start sometimes did t want to kick over the starter solenoid eventually I found it was only
Holding 11.8… at the time my buddy was working at optima so I let him
Check it out they found it had one dead cell. That one was a bit tricky to sort out!

Keep your old 1354 open it up and see what gives! I have never had one push fluid like that and I’ve only seen a couple of them
Actually fail. They are getting harder to find, we sell them for $500-800!!

 

[Kirby N.]

Man that was back when optimas were premium. I had a buddy who was an electrician and worked at the plant in longmont sometimes. He would get blems. In those days optima would last 10 or 15 years. I guess that's bad for business.

This 1354 is pretty destroyed. I dont think I would ever run it again and I dont think I would sell it to someone to run in good conscience. But if anyone wants it, Ill take $27!

So- yes it does shut off like I turned off the key- lights and all- but not immediately and not all the time. It chugs, and sometimes it will chug hard enough for the lights on the dash to come on- you know like if i stalled it out by putting it in too high of a gear- anti lock light on the dash, etc- then it comes back. Other times it will just stutter for a second and the light doesn't come on. Like I said, I thought it was running out of gas, so I would look for the closest gas station, whip it in there and fill it up. Oddly enough, that seemed to fix it. Back on the road with no stutter.

You have me wondering though- I might have to try tomorrow- if I stall it does the dash light come on? I think it does. If I turn off the key and back on at highway speeds- does the light come on then go off? I'll have to check.

I spent some time reading through this thread last night. Turns out on my frame rail, the thing that got me looking at the wires was that it would pop a fuse on left turns and blow the brake lights with them. That was the broken hot wire. But I say- and remember- that there was also a broken wire for the ground on the fuel pump. I wonder if that is what is giving me issues now??? Seems like I am so careful and thorough, that I would have fixed it up so it never needed fixing again, but who knows? I might have to look at that tomorrow night. Could that explain why filling it with gas affects it? maybe the tank swells a little? IDK. I should be able to jiggle that wire and replicate it if that's the deal. Maybe ill try that while it is idling. Maybe the coil fixed it, and I thought it was stuttering but it was just the transfercase coming apart? Maybe it needs a icm?

Would a PCM relay act like this? Ignition switch- like in the steering column? If the solenoid on the fender? I just put in a new motorcraft solenoid when I did the starter so I wouldn't think that would be it. Its been misbehaving before that and after.

As an update to the transfercase- man where has it been my whole life?
I started the day remembering that I didn't tighten the tranny mount. So did that before a shower in the cold this morning at 6:00 am.

Glad I remembered when I was waking to do that.

While I was under there, I was thinking about how nice it will be to clock this case up 1 notch and get it out of harms way.

You can see where it hangs down just a little. you can also see where I took off the boses for the dampner. Those are not necessary.

I can't believe how much better the ranger drives. It is so quiet. Also, before it had a vibe between 80 mph and 85 mph and also a pretty loud noise. I figured the rear driveshaft was too long and vibrating. The driveshaft shop told me it was right at the edge of being too long and might vibrate a little. That made sense I thought. That was wrong. The new transferase fixed all of it. Vibe free and quiet to up over 100 mph. It really made a big difference.

 

[Scott B.]

Given that the problem goes away with a full tank, maybe there is a wire on the top of the tank that is getting pinched - thinking the tank shifts down when full/heavy, and lifts as it gets lighter.

Just a thought. Check your fuel tank mounts as well,

 

[410Fortune]

You only have one fuel pump right not the stupid dual setup my 88 originally had?

I would suspect ignition switch or battery cables from what you describe seems like you are losing electrical power for a moment?

My optima was red and green I used to get the blemishes too! My buddy that worked there his name was Merle peeveyhouse
He was also the same guy who helped
My Bolt in a 4.0 when I first ditched my 2.9 must have been 1993 or so?

 

[Kirby N.]

Yes sir just one. I was unaware there was a setup with 2 pumps?!? Sounds like a typical ford “let’s try this”.

Wow.1993? My buddy was there probably 2003 or so. He had a blue 1985 Ranger that he restored and put a James duff lift on and painted. One of my favorite trucks of all time. He rolled it and had it repaired. Then rolled it again and gave up. We were going to rebuild it but ended up stealing parts off for other projects. The lift went on my 1993 Navajo.

It must have been about 2004 when I came to your house in Littleton and you showed this young padwan all of yours and Brett’s projects. And helped me with a manual swap for my Navajo. I remember Brett’s Barney purple sport and mustangs and a crawl space of wonder. Also your cut and turn beam jig.

I think Scott b might be on to something. I did run it out of gas today and it acts differently- it dies slower. So I don’t think it’s that any more. But I do think that wiring could be it. It didn’t act up today at all. Other than actually running out of gas. I did move that harness around when working in the transfer case on Monday. If it acts up I am going to pull over and wiggle the harness.

 

[Rick]

I had a red top optima once that lost a cell it worked ok until it didn’t I had 12
Bolts for starting but not 12.2 or 12.4 and when running everything acted normal running on the alternator…
But once in a while it would
Act like no battery hard to start sometimes did t want to kick over the starter solenoid eventually I found it was only
Holding 11.8… at the time my buddy was working at optima so I let him
Check it out they found it had one dead cell. That one was a bit tricky to sort out!

My Optima story...

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/optima-red-top-life-span.503303/

 

[Kirby N.]

@Rick completed project huh? I am not sure how accurate that is. She still has lots of work to be done.

I did some work on the Ranger this weekend. When I was hunting two years ago, I lost one of the inner fender liners I fabricated. It was probably from the mud. It was made from thicker and material that was recommended to me by @410Fortune. I believe it was 1/8” abs. Over the last couple years we have had a constant reminder of the need to fix this problem when my door hinge constantly squeaks and needs a shot of oil.

Luckily, I ordered some thinner abs- 1/16”- that I have been storing since last made the 1/8” pieces. When the 1/8” pieces fought with me so hard, I ordered the 1/16” and by the time the 1/16” pieces came in I discovered that the 1/8” could be manipulated with a heat gun.

Let me say, the 1/16” stuff is way easier to work with. I don’t know how it will hold up but time will tell.

I started by masking off the area with blue tape. Then I traced out the part I wanted cut out with a sharpie.

Next I carefully pealed off the tape. Then trimmed the template with scissors and laid it out on the sheet of abs

Then I cut it out with shears. Fortunately, I was able to cut it all out with shears and didn’t need to use a grinder or oscillating tool. It is much easier to work with then the 1/8” stuff.

Next I put it in place and manipulated it a little with some heat. I started with clamping and the final product got black rivets with backer washers to hold everything tight

I was able to rivet the front to an old piece of 1/8 that stayed behind. The rear part I was able to wrap around the bottom. This is more than I had before/ did on the other side and snow and ice would still get between the body and the door and hang up. I am hoping it is durable enough and stays together.

 

[410Fortune]

Very nice!

Btad

(Blue tape aided design)

They are never really “done”

 

[Rick]

@Rick completed project huh? I am not sure how accurate that is. She still has lots of work to be done.

Are they ever really "completed"? LOL This one looked close enough for me.

 

[Kirby N.]

Are they ever really "completed"? LOL This one looked close enough for me.

I still have so much to do! I need to install the doubler soon.

I have been doing some brake trouble shooting here lately. I got a little surge when I hit the brakes at certain speeds. I think my front rotors are warped. I put it on the lift and the passenger one seems to have a little wobble. I think I will either turn them or put some new rotors on. They are not that old, but it seems like such a hassle to have them turned and have to wait. I also want to shorten the drag link and install a high travel lower tiered so the I have more clearance between the tie rod and the drag link.

While I am doing that, I think I'll add these:

Disc Brake Dust Shields, Galvanized Pair-Broncograveyard.com

New, improved disc brake dust shields. Made of galvanized steel. Designed to improve airflow. PAIR For the following trucks: 1976 Ford Bronco, 1977 Ford Bronco, 1978 Ford Bronco, 1979 Ford Bronco 1976 Ford F100 4wd, 1977 Ford F100 4wd, 1978 Ford F100 4wd, 1979 Ford F100 4wd 1976 Ford F150...

shop.broncograveyard.com

When I am out in the deep snow and it really gets packed in the front end, the front brakes stop working for a pump or two. I think these shields would help. The stock ones are huge and were bent on this axle of course.

Question for you guys- I have tried to do some reading and didn't really come up with a definitive solution.

Front Axle Brakes: I am running the 1977 front brakes. The rotors are 11.7". Stock is 10.8". So about 1" bigger. My calipers are 3" wide and the stock calipers are 3" wide.

Rear Axle Brakes: I am running stock 1995 Explorer disk brakes. I dont really know how to compare those to my stock drum brakes on my ranger. It is rear abs and the abs works perfect and I like it. So I dont want to mess with that.

It does seem to be a little heavy on the rear brakes. When I am going fast on the dirt and I stab the brakes going around the corner- the rear wants to come around. Or even going straight it will try to lock up. Its not like crazy obnoxious, just a little obnoxious.

So wondering if anyone has any ideas for a master cylinder that would work a little better with this setup. Thinking maybe a 1995 Exploder. Will it work if it is for an abs? Maybe @410Fortune or @BKennedy would have an idea?

 

[Rick]

So wondering if anyone has any ideas for a master cylinder that would work a little better with this setup. Thinking maybe a 1995 Exploder. Will it work if it is for an abs? Maybe @410Fortune or @BKennedy would have an idea?

Add something like this to your rear brake line and you will be able to dial in the correct amount of bias:

Amazon.com

 

[fordpickupman]

Real hotrods are never finished.....
I love this little truck. It's so cool.

 

[BKennedy]

I have a master cylinder for a 1995, no cruise control, Explorer model. It works well. I have a NIB F-150 MC here. I never installed it because the bore is smaller than the Explorer MC, and that won't help build pressure. I think I have the same brakes as your rig, but I have 1976 T-Bird calipers up front. They have a larger piston, but otherwise identical to the F-150. I have a Wilwood proportioning valve in between the hard and soft lines for the rear brakes. It was a good spot because I can get to it, and it's safely mounted to the frame above the axle. I had to extend the lines a few inches to keep the soft lines from pulling on the hard lines at full rebound, so it worked out.

I know Rick has a MC out of a Dodge Truck, not sure year or model. It's got a larger bore and really builds pressure.

 

[Scott B.]

I still have so much to do! I need to install the doubler soon.

I have been doing some brake trouble shooting here lately. I got a little surge when I hit the brakes at certain speeds. I think my front rotors are warped. I put it on the lift and the passenger one seems to have a little wobble. I think I will either turn them or put some new rotors on. They are not that old, but it seems like such a hassle to have them turned and have to wait. I also want to shorten the drag link and install a high travel lower tiered so the I have more clearance between the tie rod and the drag link.

While I am doing that, I think I'll add these:

Disc Brake Dust Shields, Galvanized Pair-Broncograveyard.com

New, improved disc brake dust shields. Made of galvanized steel. Designed to improve airflow. PAIR For the following trucks: 1976 Ford Bronco, 1977 Ford Bronco, 1978 Ford Bronco, 1979 Ford Bronco 1976 Ford F100 4wd, 1977 Ford F100 4wd, 1978 Ford F100 4wd, 1979 Ford F100 4wd 1976 Ford F150...

shop.broncograveyard.com

When I am out in the deep snow and it really gets packed in the front end, the front brakes stop working for a pump or two. I think these shields would help. The stock ones are huge and were bent on this axle of course.

Question for you guys- I have tried to do some reading and didn't really come up with a definitive solution.

Front Axle Brakes: I am running the 1977 front brakes. The rotors are 11.7". Stock is 10.8". So about 1" bigger. My calipers are 3" wide and the stock calipers are 3" wide.

Rear Axle Brakes: I am running stock 1995 Explorer disk brakes. I dont really know how to compare those to my stock drum brakes on my ranger. It is rear abs and the abs works perfect and I like it. So I dont want to mess with that.

It does seem to be a little heavy on the rear brakes. When I am going fast on the dirt and I stab the brakes going around the corner- the rear wants to come around. Or even going straight it will try to lock up. Its not like crazy obnoxious, just a little obnoxious.

So wondering if anyone has any ideas for a master cylinder that would work a little better with this setup. Thinking maybe a 1995 Exploder. Will it work if it is for an abs? Maybe @410Fortune or @BKennedy would have an idea?

I ran the stock Ranger MC on both my 1993 and 2006 Rangers with the Explorer rear disk brakes. The rear on the '93 may have been a tad heavy, but not a major issue. I didn't notice any issue with the 2006.

You can probably get away with a newer Ranger MC - I did not compare the Ranger MC with the Explorer MC, but I don't there is much if any difference.

But, if you are going to change MCs, may as well get the Explorer disk brake one.

 

[410Fortune]

95 explorer master cylinder no cruise no abs
That’s the one I run

Before that the rear discs would hang up and look up too early

With the old 94 style drum brake master cyl and rear disc brakes, after applying the brakes the rear discs would drag for a bit.
My bii runs 97 ranger duel piston front calipers and stock 98 explorer rear discs. The 95 master is perfect for this,
No proportioning needed

 

[Kirby N.]

I haven’t gotten to the brakes yet. My wife put a damper on my Ranger budget- and they are functional, so it can wait.

I did have some tube and gussets laying around so I added some tubes to the rear bumper.

They add a little support to the outer tube and look nice. I think it makes the bumper look much more complete. Don’t worry they clear the shackle at full stuff by an inch or so. I am also considering some tube over the top on the side and around below the tail light and stop at the tailgate. Idk. I am kind of on the fence about that. It would be nice protection. If you notice my tail light is missing because I was distracted and backed into a tree in my yard. The glass just flexed and popped all the rivets on the side of the bed. The steel under buckled pretty hard and I pulled it out with the winch on my dad’s side by side. Almost good as new. The aftermarket tailgate is complete trash- it looks ok but it is so thin and doesn’t fit well. I have another stock gate that I should fit and get painted- but that takes budget.

I also added some gussets to the tow hitch. I never really had a great spot to hook safety chains. The shackles are far away from center so they don’t always work well. That problem is solved

I was hoping to install the doubler this summer- but I didn’t get to it.

 

[Turdle]

2 problems solved, who's a hoarder now huh?

 

[Kirby N.]

You right! The shifters have me scratching my head a little. That is going to take some engineering, I think I need to make a steel transmission hump cover to attach them to. Then there is the cost to lengthen and shorten driveshafts and also new spring hangers for the rear. And gosh I hope the new pinion angle doesn’t jack my shock mounts up- but it could. So maybe the cost of those too. Then engineering a new crossmember. And finally the speedometer cable. It’s a big job.

I did find a decent manual tranny/
Auto tcase boot. Not perfect, but decent.