Completed Project - Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up | Page 46 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Completed Project Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.
I haven't posted much here since I sold my 1993 Mazda Navajo around 2010 or 2011. It was 10 years in the making and finally to a solid, reliable state. I had some other priorities and decided to sell it and get something more versatile. I will include some pictures below of its developing states and final state when I sold it below. In the end, it had 37" MTRs, Arb front, detroit rear, 4.56 gears, D and D doubler and I built all the armor and the Dana 44 front Solid Axle Swap.

James duff 3.5" VR coil lift, 235" defender tires and a home made heavy ugly bumper (around 2000 when I bought it) :
Before.jpg


2001 with 33x10.50s and James duff 4.5" lift with extended radius arms, manual hubs and new auto tranny:
33sand4inch.jpg

Here it is just after the SAS with 34s and a swapped in manual tcase and tranny:

864825-R1-044-20A.jpg


Winching out of Mikeys hot tub circa 2002 or so

Tub.jpg


Stuck on a tree just after 37s
DCFC0209.jpg


37s, winch bumper rebuild etc
IMG_0388.jpg


Final State Explorerforum moab trip 2010

IMG_2875.jpg


IMG_2930.jpg


MoabMay2010217.jpg


Last Poser Shots
IMG_3625.jpg


IMG_3617.jpg


I hear it still gets around Colorado and Utah and I have had buddies call me with airings from time to time.

I have had a few rangers and one explorer since I sold my explorer.
Here are some pics of those:

Beat up 1994 Ranger 2.4l ($250)
IMG_1339.jpg


Traded 1993 Ranger 4.0l and an abused auto tranny

IMG_1594.jpg


1991 Manual Tcase and Tranny Explorer Sport

IMG_4973.jpg



We have also had a ton of cool Jeeps. Here are a couple of pics, along with our current Jeep which we are hanging on to:

2005 unlimited Rubicon Sahara 5.7 L Hemi
IMG_3981.jpg

IMG_3980.jpg


2005 unlimited Rubicon 35s and 4" lift
IMG_1196.jpg


Our Current 2005 Unlimited Rubicon 4" Lift 315 Kevlars
IMG_1369.jpg


It does great grocery getter, family truckster, and occasional wekend wheeler, but I need a truck and I miss my exploder, so I decided to build a Ranger. However, I want to build it a little different this time.

I have always wanted to build a 1989-1992 ranger, so I spent a considerable amount of time looking for a low mile one with the right engine, tranny and tcase in good shape. 4.0l, m5od and 1354M stock. My explorer ended up with this combo, but started out as an auto tranny and tcase. This made for a ton of modifications and headaches with my explorer. Rangers can be had in many other undesirable configurations because they were available with 3 different v6s in 1989-92 and a 4cylinder. It proved to be a difficult task. Finally in the fall of 2012 I picked this one up. A 1991 4.0l manual tranny and transfer case 4x4 extended cab "mountain States Edition. It had 130k on it and ran great. The paint was toast, it had a rusty bed and (my biggest complaint) it had no factory air.

IMG_2624.jpg


I drove it for a year until I was ready to have it painted. I fixed a bunch on it- thermostat, muffler, wheel bearings, brakes, had a new headliner installed, etc. When I got a quote for the paint (one solid color and fix the dings) it was 2k. So then I started thinking I better look for a different ranger to build! I settled on this one. It too is a 1991, it has air (huge plus after not having it in my other truck all summer), manual case and tranny and everything else and a 4.0. The body is really straight no rust and the interior is super nice. The odo read 83k and I believed it.
IMG_2956.jpg



Since then I tracked down the original and only owner to find it has 183 k on it and they were all hwy miles. The only complaints I have is I wish it had the other mirrors and pop out extended cab windows. I can deal with those, though. This truck has been taken care of.

First order of business was a tune up, brakes and leaky valve cover gaskets.

The build plan is pretty simple: build it similar to how my explorer ended up, with out all the half builds in between. It took me a lot of work and money to get my explorer to preform well off-road and on the street and be reliable. On this one I want to skip all the poor performing, cheapskate half steps I took with the explorer.

My goal is to end up with a reliable, daily drive able, off-road capable ranger that will make a great driver, great work truck and great expo vehicle. I like the idea of a truck over a explorer sport because I need to haul dirt bikes and Sheetrock and plywood and all kinds of stuff all the time so I always needed a pickup when I had the explorer even though I wanted to drive the explorer all the time. Hopefully this will do both functions well.

So far, I have installed:

A blue tooth pioneer stereo (replacing the stock tape deck)
IMG_2957.jpg



A optima yellow top
IMG_2958.jpg


A Black grill and headlight bezels along with new headlights:
IMG_2961.jpg


The only body work it needs is the topper it had on it was put on with a loose and poorly placed clamp that rubbed a hole in the bed cap. I will weld it up and hopefully add a LineX bedliner over the top
IMG_2962.jpg


I purchased a Dana 44 out of a 76 f150 with no guts or outers for a $50 bill. I still have my spare warn premium hubs off my ex, and I plan to build this one stout before I put it in and leave it full width but move the c bushings in about 2" per side. I will likely then run stock style f150 wheels with stock backspacing and 35s or 37s as skinny as I can find. It will get a full rebuild and at least 4.88s, maybe 5.13s. I am not decided on radius arms yet. I suppose extended ones are on the bill instead of the stock wristed ones I had before, but I haven't sorted that out yet. The wrist traveled fine but it clunked and made a racket and it was also a pain to get out and pull the pin when it was time to wheel. Extended arms won't perform quite as well on the street as the stock length ones did with the pin in, but longer arms should stream line things.

For the rear I will rebuild a full width late model 31 spline 8.8 put of a bronco or f150 and install explorer disk brakes. I will likely need to have the axle flanges turned down and drill the rotors for the new bolt pattern.

I will extend the wheel base around 3" by moving the front axle forward and leave the rear axle centered in the wheel well. I plan to leave the bed size stock as I need the truck to haul stuff all the time. I will build bumpers and sliders before I beat it up this time.

Stay Tuned, I am picking up the front axle tomorrow.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





The longer front driveshaft could be really helpful though- it is about at its limit at full droop currently. Rear shaft is super long with no carrier bearing too.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Haven’t gotten to work on the doubler yet. Still wondering about the electrical issues I had earlier this year.

So I worked on a toolbox.

I have been running a rubbermaid or craftsman tub behind my seat for years. Need something to hold the tire chains, yankum rope, shackles, snatch block winch remote jumper cables, etc. the floor behind the seat in a super cab isn’t flat. So I have had a craftsman tool kit in front of the bump and the tool bin on top. Well it slides around, it breaks because of the weight and it isn’t really efficient with the space. And if I need a tool out of the kit, I have to unload the 200 lbs bin.

So I decided to fix that. This is a project I have been thinking about for at least 5 years.

I have been running no jump seat on the drivers side for years. It just seems I will never need it.

I Started by building a platform with legs from 3/4 square tube 1/8 wall. This will allow me to access the craftsman tool set without unloading the bin above it.
IMG_0687.jpeg
IMG_0688.jpeg

It attaches to the seat belt bolts in the front for the middle front seat and the drivers seat. In the rear I recessed it and used one of the bolts for the jump seat. 3 good attachment points should be enough.

Next I built front and middle sides. I have to make sure they follow the trim closely so I don’t have problems with them sealing to the cab walls.

IMG_0689.jpeg
IMG_0690.jpeg
IMG_0691.jpeg


They are all clamped in place. Next I tacked the whole thing together. The I made sure the seat fit nicely- it does. Takes away my recline, but I haven’t used it in years with the tub behind. If I am on a trip and need to sleep I move to the passenger seat.

IMG_0699.jpeg
IMG_0700.jpeg
IMG_0701.jpeg
IMG_0702.jpeg
IMG_0703.jpeg

I got the top cut but I am trying to figure out doors and latches and hinges so I didn’t tack the top on.
 






That is an awesome project - - been thinking of a similar plan for my Ranger, but carpeted wood instead of steel (can't weld...).

Any concerns with you, tools, and fuel all on the driver side? Guessing no as you've been running this set-up for a while.

Great work.

Paul
 












That is an awesome project - - been thinking of a similar plan for my Ranger, but carpeted wood instead of steel (can't weld...).

Any concerns with you, tools, and fuel all on the driver side? Guessing no as you've been running this set-up for a while.

Great work.

Paul
You calling me fat?

Yeah, my dad said the same. It’s pretty heavy with all my stuff and now a toolbox out of 1/8”.

Probably should have done the other side but I like the fold and tumble on the passenger side and I am trying to preserve one jump seat to use if I need it.

I built a wooden box for my exploder and it really takes up so much more space. The material is so thick with plywood. So I think this will be more durable and a better use of the limited space.
 






You calling me fat?
Nope . . .

Same thing with my Sport - - me, fuel tank and bumper-mounted spare tire all on the driver side of the vehicle - - so always try to load the heavier gear on the passenger side, especially in the cargo area. . .

Again, great work.

P.S. Cool grab handle, didn't know the older Rangers had this.
1727714988636.png


Paul
 












P.S. Cool grab handle, didn't know the older Rangers had this.
View attachment 456936

Paul
That is actually the handle for a cargo cover thing behind the seats. My sport had something similar for the cargo area in The back. It unrolls a vinyl material and conceals the area behind the front seats.
 






I made some more progress on the toolbox today. Started cutting doors in it.
IMG_0736.jpeg

IMG_0737.jpeg
IMG_0738.jpeg
IMG_0739.jpeg
IMG_0740.jpeg


It’s going to have a couple partitioned out compartments that will hold smaller stuff like my winch controller, air line and various recovering things- d rings and chain links, maybe even a tree strap and snatch block.. I also got some hinges and latches from McMaster-Carr.
 






Well, I am pretty frustrated with the ranger and I am not really sure what to do next- so I thought maybe some of you would have an idea.

It has started starting really hard recently and progressively gotten worse. Its not consistent, but often it will crank for like 30 seconds and only start when I add some throttle input. Initially I thought maybe it had something to do with the ambient temp or starting with the AC but that doesn't seem to change anything and it has gotten colder here and the problem persists and seems to be getting progressively.

I got an obd1 scanner but i can't get it to read key on engine running. I got no codes key off engine off. I have no check engine light.

I read a thread about an evap purge valve affecting idle so i got a motorcraft one and replaced it. I reset the computer. It did nothing.

I got a smoke machine. I found a little leak on one of the hose clamps on the intake. Tightened it and nothing seemed to change. no other intake leaks. I reset the computer.

I borrowed a Ignition Control Module from a friend and swapped to that and reset the computer. I thought it changed initially, but after a few cycles it didn't seem to do anything.

The idle is still pretty erratic. I tried the process that @donalds recommends in post #775 again. Trying to set the idle to about 750 RPM- unplugging the iac. After I got done, I plugged back in the IAC and after a few minutes the idle climbed up to 1200 or so rpm and would not go back down. So I swapped out the recently new Motorcraft IAC with a junk yard IAC. The idle calmed back down. It seems to be idling ok. It seems to be idling better when I cycle the ac. So I will run it for a while.

It still starts hard sometimes.

I didn't reset the computer after the new Iac, So I am doing that currently.

So I am kind of out of ideas. I replaced every sensor I could think to replace with expensive quality OEM parts in the last year or so. Some of those I have tested against junk yard units to see if they we new and broke.

When it is running it seems to run fine. The idle has been erratic for a long time- so it is hard to tell if it is running normal or if it is still erratic. It idling better than it was.

Here are the ideas I have left:

1. Swap the ECU to a junkyard unit and see if it fixes it. Maybe buy a rebuild if it does. I read some threads of guys doing this and it fixing it.
2. The wiring on the fuel pump- that has caused me a lot of problems. There is a new one on eBay. I am considering buying it and replacing it for peace of mind. I tried wiggling it to see if that affects the starting and it doesn't seem to. But remembering the last time I had the no start issue, it seems the wiring had an effect.
3. Fuel pump. All the fuel pumps. I have been through a lot of those on this thing. It doesn't seem to change a thing when I cycle the key. but it does seem to start terrible mostly when it has sat for a while. That would indicate that maybe pressure is bleeding off. Perhaps I'll borrow a fuel pressure tester. The last one I borrow was well used and didn't work well. i still have a spare I think.

Any ideas? if it starts much harder I am going to smoke the starter I have or have to get another battery at least to keep driving it.
 






You need to know what the fuel Pressure is

Long crank usually weak fuel pressure behind the injectors
Does cycling the key a couple of time before you crank help?

I have seen a few pcm failures as these
Computers get older more and more of them need replaced. What is your calibration code? I may have a pcm

Do you have a cam synchro on the ranger?

When it occurs you can do a couple
Of things. First check for spark.. is there spark during the long crank? (This helps determine if it is a pcm/ cam or crank sensor issue)
The 50/50 test does it fire right off with some ether? (If yes then it’s likely fuel issue)

Fuel pressure gauge! Must have a good one in the toolbox if you own pushrod fords
 






Thanks Jaime. I will check the fuel pressure.

It does not have a cam sync. At one point after the engine install the crank sensor was loose. I replaced it with a motorcraft one and it is not loose now.

I can try the spark and ether test.

It does not help to cycle the key. No different. It usually won’t start for a very long time if I don’t open the throttle. That seems to be the only thing that causes it to start- if I open the throttle to about 75% then She starts. Also when I first crank it, it sounds like it wants to start right off, then it goes into this super long crank and not starting.

How do I tell the code on the ecu? Is it the sticker on it? I might hit up some of the Denver pick and pulls today and see if I can find one (your old stomping grounds
Haha).
 






There is a 4 digit code on the sticker like COW1 or just post a pic of the sticker

I’ve had compatibility issues before something about a 92 pcm running a 94 engine where I had to drill a small hole in the throttle body butterfly to get it to idle. The mustang dudes have a little plate you
Bolt between intake and iac that allows you to introduce some air to fine tune your idle

With the butterfly closed the only way the engine gets air is through the iac valve so if it is having issues you will get strange problems
But again long crank is almost always fuel related
 






Fuel pressure numbers-

Key on engine off (cycle a few times because I bled off pressure getting it going)
- 38psi

Key on engine running - 31psi

After sitting for 10 minutes- just below 38.

After sitting for an hour- 30 psi
2 hours- 23psi

When I key on again to start it, it jumps back to 38 psi. While cranking then to 32 when it starts. With the fpr vacuum unplugged it goes to 39, plug back in to 31.

Here is a picture of my computer sticker thing:

IMG_0793.jpeg
 






Good job! Good fuel pressure numbers. 31 is a little low, I like to see 34-36 but your issue is at startup not power while running

Next time you have long crank see if you can do a simple spark test at a plug wire…

I will lookup that calibration code A1S
 






I was thinking everything was in spec for pressure too. I wasn’t too surprised either because it didn’t change the hard start when I cycled the key.

I also have wiggled the wiring and it doesn’t seem to help- and it would be indicated with this test because that would change the pressure, and it is starting hard even with this pressure.

I kind of think it’s the ecu- but I don’t want to get my hopes because it may not be.
 






Check this out

“Startup Failures: Engine startup problems often indicate a faulty 1991 Ford Ranger ECM“



I found it interesting they specifically called out sporadic starting issues

I will look through my pcms and see if I have one that is compatible … I have a 92 sport 5 speed outside for parts , that pcm should at least be good for testing your rig
 






I'd crack open the ecm and look for bad Components or anything a miss
 






Thank you- no stress. I am going to see if I can find one this weekend at some local yards.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I found one today, but it was a 1994 and I confirmed that it did have a camshaft position sensor- so I didn’t grab it because I decided it wasn’t compatible
 






Back
Top