1997 MM 5.0 c-n-p conv. *IT RUNS! 1st CL drive Problem with Overdrive*

[Josh P]

At work, we have a 2003 Crown Vic full chassis that a 1976 F-150 cab is going on to. We call it the CVF-150 project. We'll be using Toyota electric steering after stripping the seals out of the R&P steering. (water got in it and messed it up for power). I've entertained the thought of a 2020
"Godzilla" engine in it. Right now, there is a 302 on the stand for it and have an early AOD also. It will be available unfinished after it is all together
the first time, running, before it comes part of the way apart for the finish painting. It is a stock burnt orange color and have late model Mustang wheels for it. Also AC. We have a chocolate brown interior for it too, out of a 1979. It would be a good truck for someone.

That'll be a great grocery getter. That kind of power will get the ice cream home before it melts. Horsepower is addictive, I turned the power up on my Freightliner daycab from 360 to 500 and I'm looking at turning it up to 700. I want to be able to drift.

 

[allmyEXes]

@CDW6212R So did the 6R80 come out in '05, '06?
I'm still waiting on the special crimp pliers. I have been identifying 2 connectors and I lengthened the ECT wires that are being converted to the CHT sensor wires. The CHT sensor is installed in the back of the driver's side (US) cylinder head. The old ECT pipe thread hole could be used for an old design analog temperature gauge to sit next to the real oil gauge.
I've been working on bits and pieces before the pliers get here. Some tape wrap was removed long enough to change where the O2 wires branch out of the harness towards the transmission and O2 sensors and now they reach without having to add on to them.
I cleaned up the tensioner smooth idler pulley, clear coated it to protect it from our 90 to 99 % humidity the installed it and the alternator bracket. Nothing else can go on the engine until the powertrain harness goes back on.

I started the antilock brake delete and got all of the lines fitted ready to install fittings and flare the ends.
I shortened the front supply line and one of the front wheel lines to line them up better.

Fittings loose. Pretty good fit if they won't pull apart.

I have a question about making a metric bubble flare. Do I use the 3/16" double flare first step to make the bubble flare? I don't think
that there is a metric die to fit this line. 3/16" is close to 4.75mm. I have to bubble flair the back/rear connection.
Below is a pick of what I cut off to retrieve the fitting.

I flared the first 3/16" double inverted flare. The remaining flares shouldn't be a problem after I confirm how to make the bubble flare.

 

[CDW6212R]

The 6R80 came out in the 4th gen's, but only 2012 up are desirable. Prior they were made with an internal control module, in the pan etc, which gets too hot and the electronics don't survive well. The 2012+ versions had two generations, for higher performance needs people go after the last version, which I think is 2015+.

 

[allmyEXes]

I got all of the coil connectors installed. It was tedious crimping on very small pieces. Rockauto has the connector with the pigtail, but it is
$48- for one connector.

The powertrain harness is now going back on. The transmission harness and the two O2 sensors are plugged in along with most of
the engine connectors.

The orange wire from the pcm used to be part of the EGR valve wiring. It will now be used to input the wideband into the pcm to use
in a real-time running situation patched into the laptop via a Moates Quarterhorse device.
Below, 1999 Crown Victoria P71 police car pcm. It was flashed at the factory with the ARA1 bin file. At a dealership or motorpool, it has
been updated to ARA3, final bin file variation. Cop car PCMs have the PATS switched off at the factory. The next PCM after this one, the
EGR stuff could be switched off.

Below is the vacuum line that attach to the EGR vacuum solenoid.

The single line goes to the vacuum operated fuel regulator.

I used the egr vacuum solenoid on one of our 4.0 trucks. I may need one to keep the pcm from setting a code.

More later.

 

[CDW6212R]

Excellent work, that's what I hope to do next year, and call it fun.

 

[allmyEXes]

@MAS Tequila

Screw the bypass pulley, mine caused the belt to fray.

Get a Duralast 865K6 belt which works perfectly on a 5.0 without going around the ac compressor.

The 865K6 is too long. I don't know if you can tell by the picture. The spring loaded tensioner is sitting in an unloaded position.
EDITED 1.5hrs later: I found a cut belt in my tools and with a helper, routed the belt around everything then I put full tension on the
tensioner and relaxed and split the difference; and have come up with an 84" belt part # 840K6. It is ordered and on the way.
Friday, the egr hole in the top of the lower plenum needs tapped 1/2" npt and install a brass Allen head plug to block off exhaust gases.
I'm doing this to keep the heat from burning the bottom of the plastic spacer.

 

[allmyEXes]

This morning I brought in my an wrenches to use for the first time. Late yesterday, I ordered an 84-inch belt for AC delete. Also this
morning brother brought an 6K832 and it fit on there and is on for the time being.

The lower plenum exhaust gas hole got tapped and a brass plug installed.

Allen head plug.

1 inch spacer had to have some fitting done to it. It was a hair long on the front and rear. The bolt holes needed filed inward.

After having it most of the way on 3 or 4 times, I determined that on an Explorer, the complete stack, intake, gasket, spacer, gasket all
have to go on as one, and the one rear bolt. I strapped the assembly together with electrical tape. Construction string might work too.

With the intake on it is looking closer to running. The C115 connector had to be disconnected, and the bracket remove to get clearance
to tighten the back intake bolt.

Remember the an wrenches? I didn't. The upper has to come back off to tighten the two fuel line connections behind the upper.

 

[allmyEXes]

Before I left the shop for the day, I had the intake off, tightened the fuel lines and finished cleaning off the gasket that goes between
the elbo and the intake. In addition to strapping all of the intake pieces together, the rear bolt needs put in before sliding the upper
part backwards under the edge of the cowl.

The intake is back on for the 2nd time. It was 100 degrees in the shop when I was locking up. A little cooler weather is on the way.

.

 

[410Fortune]

I put a washer under those long intake bolts at the top.

Nevermind I see the washer now…

The long bolt in the back, the one that must be in place, I drop it in the hole and adjust its length and then use a piece of tape to keep it from dropping down
Then install

Good idea to tape the sandwich together, how do you remove the tape? Slide it out?

Now you have to modify the coil tripod it’s only now going to be a bipod

 

[allmyEXes]

I used the tape that strapped it together to hold the bolt up a bit on the rear and front bolts to keep the sandwich lined up.
Do you think that I will need the dual 4 pack coil bracket for anything that I'm overlooking?
The tape slid out easier the second time because I just wrapped it around the very end near the bolt hole instead of like I did
it the first time (pictured).
I had added a washer at the very short front stud/bolt but forgot to add it the short rear one. 4 bolts and two studs came with
this spacer. Brother's spacer came with 4 bolts. Short 2. A different supplier. He was a little pissed.

 

[410Fortune]

So the brass plug in the egr port will help stop he port from Dead ending at a gasket and spacer?
I ask because I don’t know!

If this is the cop engine then you don’t need the tripod and you can ignore me

Carry on lol

 

[allmyEXes]

lol. Since I didn't want to remove the lower intake and use some gaskets that have the metal EGR blocker holes, I decided to plug the
internal egr port that runs through the intake from the heads. I plugged the bottom to keep exhaust gas and heat from deteriorating
the plastic spacer. Also doing this will keep the upper half of the intake cooler.
Yep! This is the coil-near-plug engine, so there is an open space up there on top of the engine deleting the wasted spark coils and bracket!
I bet that most of your 5.0s have had the external egr, pipe etc. and no holes in the intake parts like the early Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0s.
ADDED 15 minutes later: Some small block intake manifold gaskets come with metal block of pieces to use when installing aluminum
intake manifolds in place of the old cast iron manifold with the heat riser feature.

File photo.

 

[Turdle]

Throw those china wall cork gaskets in the trash, use a 3/8" bead of motorcraft gray rtv instead. Also around coolant ports, tiny bead there

 

[allmyEXes]

I figured that I would throw that file photo in there. Jon's remedy for the slippery corks works too. In the late 1970's early '80s, we
would clean the block surface really well and the new cork gaskets, then we would use 3-M Super Weatherstrip adhesive and go by the
directions on the tube. We would let them set-up overnight before installing the intake. Crankcase and intake torque pressure would
otherwise make them leak, or worse, spit them out.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's a great gasket set from Felpro, I just received a version of that last week. As Jon said, toss all cork gaskets and use plenty of Ultra #### RTV. The RTV is still excellent insurance for leaking of almost anything. Check for any slight gaps when things are set together dry, before adding gaskets or RTV etc. Use enough RTV in places where the gaps are the biggest, that's where the corners and the coolant ports become important.

 

[allmyEXes]

@CDW6212R I didn't have the lower off of my truck this time. It wasn't leaking so I didn't mess with it.
If you look back a few pages here in my thread to when I was working on the exhaust system, early in that phase I went through flange and
catalytic converter nuts & bolts removal. Mine had seen some salt and a few 100K miles. I salvaged all except for one cat bolt that the
head rounded off on. I had to use oxy/acetylene heat.
Early tomorrow I'm going to order a gasket for this project. An EGR elbow to upper plenum gasket. This brand has metal in it.
I'm waiting on this part and I have a few other things to do before me and my wife leave early Thursday to go south to the Florida
pan handle. Panama City Beach to be exact. We will probably run up to Panama City one evening to Olive Garden for a break from sea food
and to use a $50 OG gift card that we have been sitting on. Panama City and Panama City Beach are two separate Municiple entities.
We expect quite an interactive trip between shark attacks, periods of extreme undertow and just two days ago, an alligator on the beach.
There is also a non-tropical low-pressure system hanging out over warm gulf waters wanting to spin up over the New Orleans area. I'm
watching that that see what develops.

 

[410Fortune]

Sounds like fun!
Be safe take pics

 

[allmyEXes]

We will have fun. It's easier for me to relax and have fun if there aren't so many pressing things at work and home work, repairs etc.
My 3 reasons for not wanting to go 3 months ago were too many people down there for summer vacation, too hot, 99 degrees is not fun and could make a person drink too much and the lodging rates are peak season. School has been back in session for over a month and labor day weekend has passed. The temps are going to be in the mid 80s during the day. The pressing matters are under control with the '97 MM getting close to running and over the weekend I got all of the home yard cut.
Hopefully the rear end will be going in the '67 Mustang today, if we can get the darn right axle out. The old differential has 500,000 to 700,000
miles on it and at one time was in Germany and Colorado salty road areas, so it is stuck in there pretty good. Would oxy/acetylene heat help, around the flange?
I'm working on the MM part time during the day today. Trying to attach the throttle cable/s bracket. If it bolts to the side of the tri leg coil bracket, I may need to make a bracket to take its place.

 

[allmyEXes]

It took 10 to 15 minutes of heat on the axle flange. I heated it and brother used a 15# jerk bar and it finally came out.
I may have spotted something to make the throttle bracket support out of. IT already has a 90 degree bend and holes in it. Lately I
think that every car or truck that I've worked on in the past 10 years for any long period of time has something off of a lawnmower on it.

 

[allmyEXes]

We're waiting on a different pinion seal for the old Mustang 7.25" 6 cyl differential.
Late today the 97 MM C bypass belt showed up. I got it installed right before we shut down for the day.
Me and my wife are leaving early for our breakation. It will be next Friday before I can work on it again. I'll post trip pictures here if
it won't bore anyone.
I know that many of you are ready to see/hear it run. I'm really wanting to see it run too. One last part is on its way.
5.0 guys, write down the number off of the belt sleeve for if you ever have to bypass your AC compressor.

(84" belt)