1995 Explorer XL personal thread

[DemonMudder]

You can’t kill a 91 explorer
Or a 95
Or a 96-97
And the 98-01 are pretty tough too especially with the pushrods

I mean normal lifespan on these trucks is like 220-300k miles and sometimes we have them with like over 300 and 400k miles!! Talk about getting your monies worth

The old bronco ii and s10
Blazer are the rollover prone suv but not really any worse then an old cj5 or 7

How many explorers have we seen on this forum that just flip over during normal road use? Not many since the Firestone tire issue

Everyone here knows it was a batch of Firestone w tires from one plant made between certain dates… yet ford was the one shelling out all the money to people who overcorrected when a tire blew and the suvs flopped

Exactly, was more of a first gen X issue due to being so closely based on the bronco ii, but ford did blame that on firestone. But even with it being much closer to the bronco ii than the second gen, they were still technically about as rollover prone as any other SUV generally. Definitely hard to kill these things though, even with the sohc these suckers could push on pretty well if taken proper care of, though being plastic those guides do only get so long for sure. But mine hit 227k before she finally had her issues with that

The s10 blazer has some issues with that I think just cause it sits so high from factory. I mean, my dad's is completely bone stock and sat almost as tall as my explorer did on about 2-3 inches of lift and 3 inches worth of larger tires too! And I had an advantage of being 4wd vs his 2wd and I still barely sat over him with the lift. So that would be my guess lol

 

[410Fortune]

Some of these late model rangers w the sohc i regularly see well over 300k on these trucks. Since they are rangers and hold their value a bit people fix the engines and transmissions and keep them on the road longer. Some of them with over 300k still have nice paint and interiors…. The 05-11 ranger is one tough sob

 

[joney]

Your Explorer is famous for rollovers, keep that in mind. Your AOD or AODE (you got the cutoff year, could be either one) transmission is good if the owners changed the fluid & filter. These failed often when people refused to do so.
The clean condition is attributable to the handicap scooter loading brace in the back, so it’s likely your tranny is in good shape.
Every part you will ever need is available for cheap at Pick-N-Pull. Dont put new wine in old wineskins… they keep an updated inventory online.
I drove a ‘69 Mustang for years, it had a 1-tire-fire rear end with drum brakes. I found a ‘98 Eddie Bauer Explorer at Pick-n-Pull and pulled out it’s 31-spline, locking 4.10 rear end with disc brakes on it for under $250. I sold my original axle to a hotrodder for $300
I’ve restored many cars over the years, with mostly used parts. Almost all of my customers are still driving them today. When I was young & broke I used to get my brake pads & rotors from these yards, and there were so many cars you could always find a brand new set.
Because explorers had such crappy engineering, there won’t be many of them left soon. Get a 2005+ if you want to keep one.

My 98 Explorer disagrees, LOL. And the other 9 running around town. Rollover risk if you follow the tire pressure on the door sticker-don't run around with 26 psi!

 

[HarryN]

This past week or so I have been having some engine start problems.

The starter behaved like the starter battery was low ( measured it and around 12.3 volts ) which seems a little low but not terrible.

Anyway it has been very hot so I wondered if that was a factor.

Have been charging it up with a 120 vac charger and then it will start.

Had been trying to remember how to tell if a problem is a battery vs starter vs alternator but it has been a long time since I ran into this so I need a refresher.

I was probing around with my not so perfect clamp meter and I might have a 150 - 180 ma current draw going on even with the engine off.

Searching on the forum I didn't find many posts about current leaks like this - open to ideas and prior experiences.

The air conditioner doesn't work so that has not been in use.

Thanks

Harry

 

[EB4X]

It should easily, strongly crank with 12.3 volts.... clean both battery terminals.
Then do parasitic draw test with amp meter hooked parallel with negative battery terminal / cable.... start pulling fuses....start with radio, especially if aftermarket -- see which fuse pull removes draw reading.....bingo.

 

[Mbrooks420]

If your starter isn’t great that battery might not be enough. Same if you have a poor connection somewhere.

That battery is half dead at 12.3 Volts.

 

[HarryN]

Thanks - agree that at 12.3 volts it is getting on the low side but you are right - connections somewhere might not be perfect.

The battery terminals are recently cleaned but the wire is kind of thin so maybe that is a factor to look at as well as tracing some things out.

Confirmed that there is in fact a 180 - 200 ma parasitic draw using the clamp meter with some follow up measurements.

It was easily able to see the lights come on with the door coming on as well.

I opened the fuse box under the hood ( near the battery). Thought I would start down the pull some fuses until it stops approach but at least with my fingers none of them would move. Will have to so some more on it in the morning.

Appreciate the inputs.

 

[HarryN]

Working on it on and off.

Using a clamp meter to measure current.

When i open the rear hatch of course it triggers the light so it jumps to ~ 600 ma.

Closing it ~ 250 ma for a while.
Slowly goes down to 150 ma
Then eventually settles in at ~ 50 ma

I have mostly been charging the battery from a charger. Starting to wonder if the alternator is out, even though my son in law put a replacement in before he turned it over to me.

Have not been driving it much but need to.

I removed the u haul tow connector as I was getting flaky readings there and it may or may not have been a factor. I didn't understand the variable current effect that was going on at the time that I removed it. It turns out that U haul will not rent a trailer to this gen Explorer anyway as i tried.

Removed the after market radio and it had no effect but it is out anyway.

There are a few remaining alarm sensors in the doors as I didn't open up the door panels to remove those....

 

[HarryN]

I have decided to sell my 1995 Explorer.

Bills to pay, and ultimately I need a bigger vehicle.

Any guidance is welcome as to where to post this and price guidance.

Thanks

Harry

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I have decided to sell my 1995 Explorer.

Bills to pay, and ultimately I need a bigger vehicle.

Any guidance is welcome as to where to post this and price guidance.

Thanks

Harry

there is the FSTW section on here. there is the local paper, FB and CL primarily.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Some of these late model rangers w the sohc i regularly see well over 300k on these trucks. Since they are rangers and hold their value a bit people fix the engines and transmissions and keep them on the road longer. Some of them with over 300k still have nice paint and interiors…. The 05-11 ranger is one tough sob

at 329k right now and it still goes down the road fine at 80 (when someone is tailing) and pulls nicely up the socal passes... definitely moneys worth!!!