1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea

[DintDobbs]

Bosch has a good reputation, from what I understand.

Just fuel pump vs. entire assembly, my recommendation would depend on the price. If the entire assembly is cheap and available, you might as well go for the gold.

 

[410Fortune]

Bosch 66085

You don’t need the entire in tank assembly unless your float is broken

This is a good price for a Bosch with strainer $105!! Oem quality pump

2000 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L V8 Fuel Pump | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

They are not always available since Covid
When the Bosch is not avail I have run the ac delco or walbro or carquest in house brand

35 psi is half what you should have!!

 

[97Sandbox]

Thanks, guys. I'll order the Bosch pump kit. My float seems to be working fine.

I'm excited to feel what a 302 with TMH feels like when it's actually getting enough fuel!

 

[410Fortune]

One more
Battle to win!!!!

 

[97Sandbox]

New Bosch pump (and some other goodies) should arrive Friday.

I imagine it'd be helpful to have the tank down by then. As I understand it, the goal is to siphon the tank, disconnect everything connected to it (wiring, fuel line, filler neck, EVAP), then undo the straps and lower it gently.
Anything special I need to know?

 

[DintDobbs]

Yeah, don't smoke while you're doing it!

Jokes aside, just use common sense and safety precautions. You'll want to wipe around where the openings will be, BEFORE removing the fuel pump, so no dirt or particles will fall into the fuel tank.

 

[410Fortune]

You can unhook the filler necks first and the wiring plug

The fuel and Evap lines have to wait until you have the tank about half way down

Less then a half tank or so makes it manageable no need to drain it fully

Get the truck way up in the air the more room you have the easier it is to access the stuff on top

 

[97Sandbox]

Sounds good.

The tank is about half full, so I'll try to muscle it down and back up without draining. Could I also just pull the line from the back of the filter and stick it in a gas can to pump everything out by running 12V straight to the pump?

I'm curious to take a look at the cleanliness inside the tank and see how dirty the in-tank filter "sock" looks. I wonder if years of built up dust from driving on rural gravel roads could be what's choking the fuel -- I've noticed a lot of dust collects around the gas cap. If it's nasty in there, I'd like to flush out the tank before putting in the new pump.

 

[CDW6212R]

Spray the bolt threads first and be sure you got them good. Put anti-seize on those threads(captured nuts) before putting the bolts back in.

Remove any skid plate to begin with, that's separate from the tank R&R. The strap that holds it up you have to lower the tank part way before it will come out. That middle point is where you have to get to for the strap to come out, and to have space to reach the fuel lines and emission hoses.

Brush the top area of the pickup assembly before R&Ring the lines, and then the bolts etc, when the tank is out.

The main bolts and their threads are the big issue if there is any corrosion on them, plus the fuel line connections. be patient with those, go slow and careful with those.

 

[410Fortune]

Yes you can easily power the pump and pump the fuel out

I have a length of hose about 1/2 inner dia fits right over the fuel line fitting up in engine bay by brake master and goes into a gas can
I also have the wiring pigtails needed to plug into the tank wiring connector back by the drivers rear tire
This way I can just use battery power and pump all the fuel out. I crush a lot of trucks we don’t need stale fuel all over the place

Don’t forget a new filter!

 

[97Sandbox]

I just changed the fuel filter when I did the engine refresh this past fall/winter. Would you change it again anyway after disturbing the tank?

 

[CDW6212R]

I just changed the fuel filter when I did the engine refresh this past fall/winter. Would you change it again anyway after disturbing the tank?

Not unless the pump sock is really full of material. My Mountaineer has rust in the tank, it fouled a new filter in a few months after I replaced it all(sock of course). I have to have a new tank for mine next time I get it running.

 

[97Sandbox]

Sounds good. I figured if the filter is new, the sock is what must be clogged. The Bosch pump kit comes with an new sock, so I'd think everything would be okay unless the tank is full of sediment (in which case I'll flush it out before reassembly).

 

[TribeZ]

Sounds good. I figured if the filter is new, the sock is what must be clogged. The Bosch pump kit comes with a new sock, so I'd think everything would be okay unless the tank is full of sediment (in which case I'll flush it out before reassembly).

I dropped the whole tank out and rinsed / cleaned the tank when I did my pump. Wanted to make sure it wasn’t coming back down again anytime soon.

I also found it way easier to thin saw the connections at the old pump I was getting rid of. Then I dropped the tank and could easily get those stupid fuel line clips/holder. I tried getting those with the special tool for like 45 mins. Then just cut the pump instead. The Bosch pump is premium went with that bad boy as well.

 

[97Sandbox]

That sounds like a good approach, but I just bought the pump not the housing assembly so I don't think I can cut those connections. Getting my old fuel filter off was tough, so I'm guessing this fuel pump will be a real fun time haha.

Flushing the tank definitely seems worthwhile. Did you just drain all the gas and flush with water, or did you use some kind of solvent to clean inside the tank?

 

[410Fortune]

You only need to
Flush the tank if there is any debris or sludge in there 9 times out of 10 they are very clean inside

Using brake clean to clean out the fittings before you try to take them apart can save many headaches. If you have compressed air I use brake clean then air then pb blaster and then they usually come right apart with the tools

 

[TribeZ]

That sounds like a good approach, but I just bought the pump not the housing assembly so I don't think I can cut those connections. Getting my old fuel filter off was tough, so I'm guessing this fuel pump will be a real fun time haha.

Flushing the tank definitely seems worthwhile. Did you just drain all the gas and flush with water, or did you use some kind of solvent to clean inside the tank?

I got a cleaner from rock auto. I did have some debri in the tank but wasn’t rusting or had any bad spots I could see inside. It was probably excessive like 410 said. But part of me trying to tackle bigger repairs myself. I like learning how these rigs work. Wish I had the confidence/space to do my own engine pull.

 

[97Sandbox]

Thanks guys. My pump delivery got delayed till Monday, but I'll probably try getting the tank down this weekend.

 

[410Fortune]

I have a plastic circle if t out if some old plastic I put it in place of the pump assembly while I’m working on the tank and pump. This keeps the fumes down and keeps anything from falling into the tank. I made it years ago and it has been so handy

 

[97Sandbox]

I was just going to cover the opening with masking tape, but plastic is probably better, I'm sure the gas would eat any adhesive