2002 Sport Trac

[dvdswan]

So, after the week of working away from home I get home and installed the Ford plug wires. Definitely made a difference and noticeable click when pushing onto the plugs. I definitely have more performance but the I still have the P0303 misfire. So, I guess I'm ordering a new injector.

Should I get just one or all six?

On a bad luck note, I was mowing the yard and while doing the side yard the mower kicked up a couple of stones/pebbles and I thought I need to be careful because I was right next to the camper shell. Low and behold, some little pebble had a better idea and I saw fly right out of the mower and hit the driver window on the ST. "POP" said a few choice words and continued to mow. Went to the backyard and started to mow on the other side of the fence from where the camper shell was and noticed that it had a broken window as well. WTF!!! Double Whammy.

Just when you get ahead and start to make forward motion, life reminds you that Murphy is just snooping around the corner ready to pounce and slaps you in the face. Stupid law. Well, looks like the junkyard will be on the list for this weekend and do some window shopping.

 

[allmyEXes]

@dvdswan Check with Jamie on the door glass fit. @410Fortune. I have a 2002 and to me it looks like several years across many models will fit.
He is in the Idaho panhandle and has several Explorer models etc.
Greg in north Alabama.
Sometimes it's easy to forget to point the mower chute the other way.

 

[410Fortune]

I have a big push style string trimmer
Last year I’m weed whacking and the wife flags me down, I’m like what is so important that she would stop me in the middle of crushing weeds one of my fav past times? Well I threw a stone right through our patio glass slider door… $650 whoopsies

So now I point the machine the other direction when I’m out back…

 

[429CJ-3X2]

One winter I let the snowblower get too low next to the driveway and tossed gravel into the grass. The next spring, the mower threw some of those rocks across the driveway at the house. Our vinyl siding has several holes in it now. Fortunately, only 1 rock hit the 8' picture window. I don't remember if it hit the main part of the window or one of the sliders on the side. The window is double paned and it only damaged the outer pane, so it wasn't an emergency that had to be dealt with right away. I'm glad I was the one who did it rather than the neighbor! I them picked up all the gravel I could find in the neighbor's yard before they mowed. Lesson learned!

Your camper shell is an ARE, correct? I know the shell only fits STs, but I'm wondering if the plexiglass windows are the same as those used in shells for other small trucks.

I once had a '75 F250, and bought an aluminum topper for it at an auction that started outside at dusk before moving inside. I learned 2 things from that experience. 1) Never buy anything in low light conditions. I knew the back window was missing. Frame was there, just no plexiglass. I discovered later that the wood paneling on the inside was shot. Not a dealbreaker, but I was disappointed I hadn't seen it in the fading light at the auction. 2) Having a plexiglass window cut was more expensive than I expected. I think I paid $35 for the topper and $50 for the back window - 40+ years ago.

 

[410Fortune]

I cut plexiglass windows all the time! Vibrating multi tool goes right through it without cracking if you are careful

I can measure the window on my are topper if you need!

 

[allmyEXes]

@410Fortune @dvdswan I think that dvdswan broke his driver's door glass on his 2002 Sport Track. Will 95 to 01 Explorer 4 dr driver's door glass fit in addition to many years of Sport Trac? Front door glasses only?

 

[410Fortune]

I believe so yes the front doors are the same

I have a gold sport trac outside she rusted out and she is headed to the big crusher in the sky eventually
I can sell parts off it but shippIng glass not gonna happen captain

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I have an ARE as well. I was thinking that if I get to the salvage yard and see a truck with an ARE topper, I'd measure the windows to see if they match. Doing research to help a fellow owner, and maybe myself in the future. Since my topper hasn't been off the truck in the 12 years I've had it, the chance of breaking a window without serious damage to the truck is slim, but you never know.

I think the front glass from a Gen 2 Explorer should fit.

 

[dvdswan]

I'm heading to the junkyard/salvage yard/auto recycler on Friday. I was thinking the 1995-2001 explorers front window would fit. Last time I was there about 6 weeks ago they did have a ST so that might still be there too. Thank you for the heads up and ideas.

I just hate cleaning up after a broken window because you never seem to get all the glass out of the door and end up with a rattle.

 

[410Fortune]

There have been lots of tracs in the junk yards lately… they are having their “window”
Plenty of them reaching the 250-300k mile range and rust is winning so off to the junk yards they go

The front doors are same as gen ii explorer heck even gen I glass will work

 

[dvdswan]

Well, that was a total fiasco replacing the driver side front window glass. 1st hour was spent vacuuming broken glass out of the door, interior, and ground. Pulled the run channel to clean out all the broken glass from it. Didn't realize the lower slide piece needed to stay so I popped it off. The new glass from the junkyard came with lower slide piece at the bottom so I had to cut the rivets off so I could pop the slide piece back on which ended up going on backwards. Popped it back off and flipped it so the glass would bolt up. Used 1/4-20 bolts and hardware to attach the glass to the slide. Vacuumed more glass up. Put the interior window sash on, door panel on, forgot about the door lock knob rod which got stuck under the top of the door panel and didn't notice it until all the hardware was put on. Pulled the door panel back off to get rod out and into the knob hole. Sadly, the whole fiasco took about 4 hours.

But the glass is in and running smooth up and down. Even lube the channels.

 

[dvdswan]

So, I had a little of "me time" and worked on the ST. I decided to start something quick and easy, so I started the tailgate handle swap. Total time approximately 30-45 minutes.

Before:

Pulled the inside cover, (6) T30 screws and (4) plastic push clips.

This gives access to the handle screws, (2) 11mm nuts, remove the nuts and the handle will be able to be maneuvered out of the tailgate.

The key lock cylinder can be removed by pulling the "c" clip, the cylinder will pop out to the rear of the handle.

The lock cylinder will basically slide right in the new handle, be sure to have cylinder end up flush with the top of the cylinder holder. This will ensure it is properly seated in the "c" clip. You can see below the handle with the "c" clip (the new handle comes with it).

On the inside of the tailgate to hold the wires, I cleaned an area with parts cleaner then with alcohol to be sure no residue was left behind and used cable tie mounts like this below.

I also ran wire for a power door lock actuator for a later install.

The ziptie tail was cut flush with flush cutters, similar to below.

This will cut the ziptie tail flush with end of the lock on the ziptie and remove any chance of slicing your hand/arm open requiring stitches. Then I twisted the ziptie so the end was away from the work area as well. This is only a pet peeve of mine for a cleaner install. But I do recommend it to save your skin...

I installed another cable tie mount closer to the side of the tailgate and coiled the rest of the video and power cable. I covered the end of the video cable so no dust/dirt with electrical tape and left a buddy tab. I really hate trying to peal of tape when it is wrapped flat and you know you're going to be removing it (another pet peeve).

I need to buy a longer 1/2" drill bit to reach the inner plate/panel and install a grommet to protect the wires.

On the bottom of the tailgate will be another 1/2" hole with a solid grommet with a slice to allow the wires to go through. You can see part of the hinge on the bottom of the tailgate (this is just for you locational awareness). I'll remove the tailgate and run a steel coat hanger up through the holes to pull the wires down. Then attach another cable tie mount to ziptie the wires too. I'll probably run them in corrugated tubing to further protect them from the elements. Which will go into a 1/2" hole below the tailgate hinge mount on the bed. (sorry no picture at this time).

New handle installed with camera.

Lower angle looking up.

More to follow....

 

[410Fortune]

Nice! I have the same camera handle to install eventually so thank you!

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Good job! My "quick and easy" projects usually turn out to be neither.

 

[dvdswan]

Got to work on the ST again today. The plan was (that's never a good start, LOL) to replace the #3 injector. While I was at it I was going to install the t-stat housing and do both tensioners. I used the link below as a guide, pretty decent step-by-step.



Everything was going well until I found the injector sleeve for #3 was broken, most likely that was the cause of the misfire.

I wasn't real happy to see that. Looked at rockauto they were between $11 and $18 but I needed them today, so I called a couple parts stores and NAPA had them but they would have them until Monday or I could drive to store. Since it was only 30 miles away I went and got them and found out they thought they were gold sleeves at $42. (sigh) Bit the bullet I wanted to finish the truck today. Got home had to watch a video to see how you install them.



Finished that, installed injector and fuel rail on pass. side. Started on t-stat housing, removed it and went to clean the surface for the gasket...

I don't remember seeing a set pin... Hey why are there only 2 bolt holes I did 3. (sigh) Well, at least there was a good 1/4" sticking out of the lower intake. Got some Vise grips and tapped on the set screws and twisted. 5 minutes later...

VICTORY!!!!

Had to run to the local Ace Hardware and find a M6x1.00x80 bolt.

Replaced the l/s tensioner and then installed the new t-stat housing.

Didn't think much about it at the time but the coolant sensors were kind of loose, didn't think about replacing the gaskets with the o-rings from the plugs. (sigh) Everything when back together really smooth after that and started to refill the coolant. 1/2 way through the 2nd gallon I start hearing water dripping. Look underneath and sure enough (sigh) coolant dripping from front of engine. Grab a flashlight and searched to see if I missed a hose. Nope both coolant sensors were seeping. (explicitives followed)

So, I tried to just loosen intake and get to the sensors but no joy. So, I have to repull the intake on the 4th.

I swear this truck likes to fight me. LOL but I will succeed.


I do have a question though.

I think the PVC valve is bad because 1 and

 

[dvdswan]

Some reason I can't edit and save. So, the last sentence should be...

I think the PVC valve is bad because 1 and 4 intake runners were oily and gooey on the inside. A sticky gooey. Would the PVC cause this?

 

[429CJ-3X2]

You don't need to loosen or remove the intake to change the t-stat housing on a Job 2 engine. I've done 2 of them. It's a pain, but a lot less work than removing the intake. There's a hard line (fuel?) that's in the way to a degree. One sensor has to be unplugged, and maybe removed, before the t-stat housing is removed. (I should remember better because it's only been a few months since I did it, but then my '04 only has 1 sensor.) You just had all the hoses off, which was the biggest problem I had when I did my '04.

 

[410Fortune]

Shake the pcv valve, does it rattle? If so chances are good it’s fine

I hate those cheapo sensors and o rings the t housing comes with

 

[dvdswan]

Ok, so everything is all back together and running smooth. No CEL anymore. That always feels good. I ordered new coolant sensors, come to find out the sensor PCM is different from the actual coolant sensor. I just swapped the o-ring from one of the new sensors to the original PCM sensor.

Question:
Is there a specific name for the PCM coolant sensor? It is obviously different because the tab for the connector slide on is moved over a bit from the coolant sensor.

So, this maintenance period I took care of...
P0303 Misfire - broken injector sleeve allowing air into the injector area creating the misfire.
Both timing chain tensioners were replaced.
Thermostat housing was replaced with aluminum one.

Found out that a couple of screws were missing or the wrong ones. So, a junkyard run is on the plans now. Which makes me think...

What do you bring to the junkyard to pull parts?

What do you bring to the Junkyard?

So, as I was cleaning up, I noticed that my trusty socket set was getting old and lots of use. It has seen many miles of trails and junkyards. Which got me thinking... What do you bring to the junkyard regularly? I bring the socket set, a pry bar, cordless impact, and hammer.

www.explorerforum.com

 

[410Fortune]

Ect engine coolant temp (pcm) usually two wires, a signal wire and ssr sensor signal return for the ground s side (grey/red)

CTs coolant temp sensor (for the dash) sometimes one wire, red/white and on some engines like your sohc there are two wires because the thermostat housing was plastic and does not provide a ground

Most parts stores have no idea which is which it is up to you to determine
Can use an ohm meter and quickly see the difference