2018 Sport mild build

[dark360]

After the warm welcome on my wheels/tires post I figured I would do a total mod post.

2018 Explorer Sport
Five Star tune
Ford Performance plugs
Airaid intake for the sound
Boomba recirc adapters for the sound
H&R springs
Bilstein B6 shocks/struts
Verde V39 Parallax 20x10 et25 and 20x11 et52 wheels (heavy, cheap wheels yes I know, but they look nice and it's not a track car)
275/40r20 front and 305/35r20 rear tires (<1% difference in circumference and the AWD nazis have already come for me)
Borla exhaust for the sound

It's a fast, agile, great handling explorer and I hope other enthusiasts get greater enjoyment from this and my other thread.

 

[mguy13sport]

Which tune do you have and did you swap out the oem map sensor for a 3 bar?

Did you reprogram the tire size in the computer? I will say those tires are probably hurting performance with the increase in rotational mass. Even the SRT jeeps just run 275s all around.

 

[peterk9]

Which tune do you have and did you swap out the oem map sensor for a 3 bar?

Did you reprogram the tire size in the computer? I will say those tires are probably hurting performance with the increase in rotational mass. Even the SRT jeeps just run 275s all around.

In reading a previous thread by jmr061 a few years ago, I believe you can only choose from a few preprogrammed tire sizes. That was before there was any mention of FORScan on here.

Peter

 

[dark360]

Which tune do you have and did you swap out the oem map sensor for a 3 bar?

Did you reprogram the tire size in the computer? I will say those tires are probably hurting performance with the increase in rotational mass. Even the SRT jeeps just run 275s all around.

Email 5 Star 93 performance tune and no to the sensor swap. I doubt I will go any further with this car in terms of mods.

RE the tires, 100% you are correct. The Verde wheels are quite heavy too. It looks nice but definitely robs performance. Digs much better of course vs the stock 255s but i've definitely lost some mpg and rolling accel vs when I had the tune but still stock wheels/tires.

 

[dark360]

Added 1" spacers to the rear wheels today and it looks much better. The et52 20x11 rears were still sunk into the wheel wells. I'll add pics once I get around to it but they poke just a tad. A 20mm would've probably been perfect but I couldn't quickly find the right hub size in a 20mm spacer to order. I did have to grind the studs since these cheap Verde wheels don't have pockets. Based on my view an 11" wide rear at et32 is pretty ideal, anywhere from et27 to 32 would look great on an eleven on the rear IMO. Plenty of room inboard, these suvs could easily accommodate a 12" wide rear if you wanted to do it, 325/335 tire width is feasible.

 

[TTIntercept0r]

Added 1" spacers to the rear wheels today and it looks much better. The et52 20x11 rears were still sunk into the wheel wells. I'll add pics once I get around to it but they poke just a tad. A 20mm would've probably been perfect but I couldn't quickly find the right hub size in a 20mm spacer to order. I did have to grind the studs since these cheap Verde wheels don't have pockets. Based on my view an 11" wide rear at et32 is pretty ideal, anywhere from et27 to 32 would look great on an eleven on the rear IMO. Plenty of room inboard, these suvs could easily accommodate a 12" wide rear if you wanted to do it, 325/335 tire width is feasible.

I am anxious to see it!

Thinking about doing 20x10.5 and 295/45 all around but man, I already get horrendous MPG on mine

 

[BrettS.]

Since we are heavily FWD bias I would think it would be better to run the wider tires up front. Reduce wheelhop, torque steer, and tire spin. Probably not popular for looks but for performance something to think about......

 

[dark360]

Since we are heavily FWD bias I would think it would be better to run the wider tires up front. Reduce wheelhop, torque steer, and tire spin. Probably not popular for looks but for performance something to think about......

I'm sure you are correct

 

[dark360]

Brake time, vented police front rotors, regular rear rotors, Hawk HPS 5.0 pads (dusty but excellent stopping)

 

[TTIntercept0r]

Brake time, vented police front rotors, regular rear rotors, Hawk HPS 5.0 pads (dusty but excellent stopping)

What brand rotors? Hawk, EBC...? Might do that myself

 

[dark360]

What brand rotors? Hawk, EBC...? Might do that myself

Don't remember if it was Power Stop or Centric the front hats have venting through to the inside in addition to the typical slots around the rotor circumference. They were billed as being the interceptor version IIRC. I was more excited I found HPS 5.0 pads than paying attention to the rotors. Think the pads were marketed as for the Ford Flex but some digging found other pads were the same part number for Flex and HD brake explorers so they fit.

 

[TTIntercept0r]

Don't remember if it was Power Stop or Centric the front hats have venting through to the inside in addition to the typical slots around the rotor circumference. They were billed as being the interceptor version IIRC. I was more excited I found HPS 5.0 pads than paying attention to the rotors. Think the pads were marketed as for the Ford Flex but some digging found other pads were the same part number for Flex and HD brake explorers so they fit.

Ah, gotcha. In my mind I read "drilled and slotted" for some reason. Anyhow, the HD kit still stops great and the extra cooling might help with warpage. Mine have a slight shutter... was thinking about going with a drilled and slotted kit and stock pads, keep the dust down to a minimum.

 

[drudis]

Ah, gotcha. In my mind I read "drilled and slotted" for some reason. Anyhow, the HD kit still stops great and the extra cooling might help with warpage. Mine have a slight shutter... was thinking about going with a drilled and slotted kit and stock pads, keep the dust down to a minimum.

I did the PowerStop ones, just cause they "look cool", and needed rotors/pads for $500, sure! FYI: Actually drilled rotors are LESS functional, as they have less thermal mass (less physical mass to absorb heat). Trust me, I spend $5,000 on brakes (rears only) for my raecar.

 

[mguy13sport]

A drilled and slotted pattern allows a hot rotor to dissipate heat faster. If you tow or haul extra weight it can be beneficial as well but main purpose is for racing applications. I have the same power stop kit with the Evolution carbon pads and the braking power is really good in snow/cold/wet conditions.

 

[TTIntercept0r]

A drilled and slotted pattern allows a hot rotor to dissipate heat faster. If you tow or haul extra weight it can be beneficial as well but main purpose is for racing applications. I have the same power stop kit with the Evolution carbon pads and the braking power is really good in snow/cold/wet conditions.

This

I did the PowerStop ones, just cause they "look cool", and needed rotors/pads for $500, sure! FYI: Actually drilled rotors are LESS functional, as they have less thermal mass (less physical mass to absorb heat). Trust me, I spend $5,000 on brakes (rears only) for my raecar. View attachment 445607
View attachment 445608

Drilled rotors will dissipate heat better, slots allow gasses and dust to "ventilate." So there is some science behind it and it isn't always just "for looks." And yes, drilled and slotted rotors are technically not as efficient due to having less surface friction, but at the end of the day the whole point is to MAKE IT BACK from a track day without slamming into the barrier due to brake fade because they overheated.