How to: - 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary | Page 54 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

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In the 5r55e shift kit do I have to replace the intermediate return spring with the new one? I bought the preinstalled kit from THP and come with the other odds and ends the pressureriser, the intermediate return spring double lip seal etc and I am paying a shop to put it in because I just don't feel like messing with it. I was going to but I think it's beyond me haha. Anyhow they quoted me at 290 to install the VB I didn't know it would include all these extra parts to install so are the absolutely nessacary to work? Keep in mind I only have like 330 in savings so just having them install them; isn't an option. My trans was slipping from 1-2 and read that a new VB gasket would fix so I figured might as well get a fancy new VB with a shift kit
 



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Good day! I apologize for the inconvenience, but asking for your help: after installation on an automatic transmission 5R55Е new clutch, steel wheels, seals, gaskets, servopistons, brake bands, and install in a valve body Superior Shift Kit with new gaskets, lost all gears, no drive, reverse, 1 and 2. I think the problem with the shift solenoids: because, due to his own stupidity, did not mark them before removing. The solenoids all diferent and have (at the coil and the nozzle) there are rooms: 3.1/1.1; 1.3/1.2; 2.7/1.2; 3.4/1.4 respectively. Please help me how to install them correctly. Thank you in advance!
 






I think first check the manual valve pin.
 






I think first check the manual valve pin.
Thank you! But manual pin install сorrectly, it worked good, when I switch the selector to the drive (1, 2) or reverse position, the engine RPM up to 1200-1300 and then drops to 650-670.
 






Shift Solenoids are all different: the location of the holes of the nozzle and its diameter also differ from each other.
 






Shift Solenoids are all different: the location of the holes of the nozzle and its diameter also differ from each other. The solenoids all diferent and have (at the coil and the nozzle) there are rooms: 3.1/1.1; 1.3/1.2; 2.7/1.2; 3.4/1.4 respectively

WP_20171030_18_18_12_Pro.jpg


WP_20171030_18_19_05_Pro.jpg
 






F24D8C63-0313-47D5-BCC5-6C515910FEF3.jpeg
Check the Ohms of each. 3 shift solenoids are the same and odd one is the coast clutch solenoid.
 






Thank you for the advice! On the weekend I'll try.
 






Can anyone tell me where and how these go on? The rings? I didn't remember seeing them when I dropped the pan.
IMG_20181109_131907.jpg
 






The servo cover goes on the shift body using bolt holes 24, 25, 26, 27 in the above picture, and the seals go on the servo piston, the bigger on on the rim and the smaller one on the stalk.
 












push up, spray the rim with WD40, work it up and down, you could grab one of the landing feet with pliers, it'll eventually slip out.
 






My car won't go into reverse :(. Don't know what I did wrong.
 






Thank you everyone that contributed to this thread. My car is shifting flawlessly now and no od lights. Should have done this as soon as I bought the car.
 






Alright guys, I get to be the first update of 2019! You can find my thread here. Thanks for all the hard work in compiling this information everybody.

Symptoms: 1998 4.0l SOHC 4x4 5r55e with 243,000 miles and new fluid/filter will not engage any drive gear unless the vehicle is up to operating temperature. Reverse engages normally as before trans service. Drives fine with normal shifts in every gear once in drive. Suspect blown valve body gasket and failing EPC based on research from the linked articles.

Parts I am replacing in case that link becomes inactive:

I ordered the Central Valve Bodies valve body kit (that comes with gaskets and separator plate) as well as:

D-oring for the low/reverse servo
Gasket for Low/reverse servo
AB servo
ZC servo cover
ZC servo
New Filter

I will update both threads with any updates!
 






Alright guys, it looks like a new valve body and low/reverse orings did the trick! Check my full thread for other details! Thanks so much!
 






I had a similar experience, replacing the valve body solved the problem.

The 2001 Sport Trac that acquired a few years ago had 250,000 miles on it. Shifted fine in all gears, but weak and slipping in reverese. I installed a Sonnax Zip Kit 23256K Reverse Servo Piston O-rings, but it did not solve the weak reverse problem. See 5R55E Valve Body Sonnax Zip Kit Install

I installed a Shift Rite valve body, it completely solved the problem. Shifts like a new transmission, I've got ~ 5,000 miles on it since the replacement.
 






This is a great thread, but I have a question. My 2001 Explorer Sport has the 5R55E transmission at 252,000 miles, as far as I know it's never been opened other than possible fluid changes, (I bought it at 245,000 so I don't know for certain). It has delayed activation of Drive and reverse, and shift flare from 1-2, 2-3. The fluid is burnt black, but I don't see any Metallic particles. I plan to open it up, and use the Superior shift kit, and tight bands. Would this fix the problem, or do I need more parts.

Thanks,
John
 






With burnt fluid and those symptoms anything short of a full rebuild would be a waste of time and money.
 



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Most of the issues will be in the VB and other parts you can work on or change, but the mileage may have worn out the clutches by now. You could do everything possible and hope the clutches are still okay, but be ready to do a full rebuild if it doesn't shift great at that time.

I'm at 178k miles with my newest 98 truck, and the shifting is too soft. I need to make time to do the VB servicing and hope I caught it in time. The clutches can last 300k and more if the shifting never becomes too smooth/soft etc. Smooth shifts are slipping shifts.
 






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