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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
the two screws holding down the TPS were in pretty bad shape by the time I got them lose , so I replaced them with socket/allen head screws. the replacement screw size I used is 5mm wide ("M5") by 30mm long. the socket head is a *LOT* easier to tighten/loosen than the phillips (+) head.
also, if you can find it, go with stainless steel!
I know you said its perfect to be at .96V. I am planning on trying this mod when I get a multimeter. Is .96 the best setting for all cars that have TPS? I would like to also do this to my dad's Chevy 1500 and my mom's Expedition(as long as they both have TPS). I just want to make sure that .96 is what those need to be on as well.
Today I made an adjustment to the TPS. Prior to any tweaking, the signal was reading 1.012 V. I just had to loosen the 2 screws to get enough adjustment to get a reading of .971 V. I havent had time to road test the X yet. I'll post back after running a tank of gas.
My 93 ex TPS was at .90 to start. I loosened the screws and and moved it arond till I got it to show .96 on the nose. All I noticed this mod did was raised my idle from 800 rpms to 1000rpms ?? Maybe, a little better throttle response! just my 2 cents.
Pro-m suggests on thier website, pro-flow.com to set beloww .999 volts, which backs your value. I believe the difference will lean you out at idle, while not changing rpm's, therfore increasing mileage and response from stop. It makes a world of difference, especially when modified with a camshaft. If set to high, you can watch catylitic converters glow red at idle ( to rich. )hope this helps.
Always use the signal ground when testin a sensor. Use the signal ground in the harness. I made a handy test point by using a double dutch snap connector wit 3" extra wire, put a butt connector on end, now you can use alligator clips
You can use something like WD-40, but it may not do much good. The screws have Lock-Tite on them from the factory, and you're right, they are a sunny beach to remove. I had to use a minature set of vise grips to loosen mine.
To remove any bolt that is locked with locktight, the industry standard is to heat the bolt with a small propane tourch or a large soldering iron, than they are easily removed