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adjust your TPS (another free hp mod)

What I did was use pins. Just push them through the wire or in the connector itself.
 



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Just as an FYI and my $0.02:

the two screws holding down the TPS were in pretty bad shape by the time I got them lose :hammer:, so I replaced them with socket/allen head screws. the replacement screw size I used is 5mm wide ("M5") by 30mm long. the socket head is a *LOT* easier to tighten/loosen than the phillips (+) head.

also, if you can find it, go with stainless steel! :rolleyes:
SHCX-CL.jpg
 












that will work just fine
 






bmxKing>> yeah that'll do...
btw you still ride? i used to ride a Haro Shredder. those were the days (outgrew bmx - now ride a Specialized Enduro).
 






I know you said its perfect to be at .96V. I am planning on trying this mod when I get a multimeter. Is .96 the best setting for all cars that have TPS? I would like to also do this to my dad's Chevy 1500 and my mom's Expedition(as long as they both have TPS). I just want to make sure that .96 is what those need to be on as well.

James T - Thanks for the helpful write-up
 






Today I made an adjustment to the TPS. Prior to any tweaking, the signal was reading 1.012 V. I just had to loosen the 2 screws to get enough adjustment to get a reading of .971 V. I havent had time to road test the X yet. I'll post back after running a tank of gas.
 






My 93 ex TPS was at .90 to start. I loosened the screws and and moved it arond till I got it to show .96 on the nose. All I noticed this mod did was raised my idle from 800 rpms to 1000rpms ?? Maybe, a little better throttle response! just my 2 cents.
 






What gives!

I ground to the battery, or body I get .99
I ground to the wire in the TPS plug & I get .96

Which is right?
 






Pro-m suggests on thier website, pro-flow.com to set beloww .999 volts, which backs your value. I believe the difference will lean you out at idle, while not changing rpm's, therfore increasing mileage and response from stop. It makes a world of difference, especially when modified with a camshaft. If set to high, you can watch catylitic converters glow red at idle ( to rich. )hope this helps.
 






Bump

See my post.
 






Jason94sport said:
What gives!

I ground to the battery, or body I get .99
I ground to the wire in the TPS plug & I get .96

Which is right?
Always use the signal ground when testin a sensor. Use the signal ground in the harness. I made a handy test point by using a double dutch snap connector wit 3" extra wire, put a butt connector on end, now you can use alligator clips
 






What is "signal ground"?
 












Would it be ok to use oil near this sensor? I need to lubricate the screws holding it down, cause they are on tighter than a bulls arse in fly time.
 






You can use something like WD-40, but it may not do much good. The screws have Lock-Tite on them from the factory, and you're right, they are a sunny beach to remove. I had to use a minature set of vise grips to loosen mine.
 






yeah didn't you get that memo?
 






Being VERY careful, try a few drops of fingernail polish remover with acetone in it. Turn screw immediately while glue is disolved. wurks lyk foniks
 






I guess I missed that memo, thanks guys!
 



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To remove any bolt that is locked with locktight, the industry standard is to heat the bolt with a small propane tourch or a large soldering iron, than they are easily removed
 






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