AWD front driveshaft

[SoNic67]

I think my front driveshaft just died. Lots of clucking and poping from under driver side, while driving, especially when I give it some gas.
I hoped is the hub since I had one already, but I change it today and was not that.

Now... I disconnected the 4 bolts and 2 straps at the axle. Is not moving.
Should I be able to "push" the driveshaft back into the CV joint at the transfer case? There are 8 small screws at the CV end (by TC) - if I take those off will it help?

Is this shaft rebuild-able?

 

[delexploder]

I always pop the front down first then the cv side, I also keep the front tires off the ground so I can turn the front yoke as it helps to get it in just the right spot to get it in and out, and yes there are rebuild kits available, look hard at how much play the pinion yoke has while you are there, I've had a few v8s now with trashed front bearings, good luck!

 

[Turdle]

There should be a slight amount of slide in the shaft, if that is what you are asking. But be careful, there may be some driveline tension on the shaft, so, chock the rear wheels and shift the transmission to neutral. Then, re check your jack stands.

 

[SoNic67]

So the back CV (at TC) comes apart too? I took the screws out already...

 

[delexploder]

Smack it with a hammer

 

[SoNic67]

First thing in the morning In what direction?

 

[Turdle]

Off

 

[SoNic67]

OK, if it doesn't go 'inside' of the CV end, it won't come off the "seat" at the axle and. Will try that.

 

[delexploder]

In your third pic it shows marks, tap it there it should pop out, someone has had it apart already

 

[Turdle]

I mean really, if it doesn't go 'inside' of the CV end, it won't come off the "seat" at the axle and.

The shaft should slide together just enough to get the front u joint out. Force from either end should drop it.

 

[SoNic67]

In your third pic it shows marks, tap it there it should pop out, someone has had it apart already

I scratched it off, in case that I need put it on in the same position.

 

[SoNic67]

Well, I put the screws back in and let my son drive it on my driveway really slow. It "pops" once every rotation and noise comes from the front side of the drive shaft. Probably it's either the universal joint/cross or the bearing inside the differential?
This is definitely more work than I was hoping... it means to drop the whole front completely.
Bummer. I am getting too old for this crap.

 

[bill06447]

Most likely the front cross joint; the oil leaking on it probably washed all the grease out. Not a big deal. As another poster said, whack the flat flange with a brass/fiber mallet and the shaft will come right off. An hour at the vise with a pair of pliers, screwdriver, and various size sockets to press the cups in to, and you're good to go!

Bill

 

[SoNic67]

That's not oil, it was my attempt to use PB Blaster. So that's on rear is a flat flange?
Then I just need a bigger hammer...

 

[SoNic67]

Yep, penetrating oil and hammering the front cross (towards back of the truck) worked.

Now... Advance Auto parts has a complete driveshaft for $200, free shipping to home - CRS driveshaft N94510. Limited Lifetime Replacement!
Does anybody know anything about it?

Heck, with coupon code ends up being $150.99 (and $8 tax)! I'll take a chance.
Alternative is a repair kit from Dorman - it cannot be better.

PS: I drive it a little on driveway without the front shaft - the front flange spins for a few seconds until it "locks up" (the fluid in VC heats up and solidifies) and only after that truck can move. It's like driving with front wheels permanently slipping on ice.
In my opinion, that's definitely NOT a long-term solution!

 

[masospaghetti]

PS: I drive it a little on driveway without the front shaft - the front flange spins for a few seconds until it "locks up" (the fluid in VC heats up and solidifies) and only after that truck can move. It's like driving with front wheels permanently slipping on ice.
In my opinion, that's definitely NOT a long-term solution!

I don't know if CRS is the same as USA Industries (which Advance also sells), but I had bad luck with USA - First shaft had holes drilled crooked, second shaft was the wrong part altogether. Hopefully CRS will be better.

When driving without my front shaft, I didn't get any slipping sensation. It felt the same as with the front shaft installed (which I finally did yesterday). Strange.

 

[SoNic67]

Well, maybe your VC is already permanently "locked" (damaged)? My "slipping" was just at start-up with a cold VC.
But driving with it like that is SIMILAR with your front wheels slipping permanently on ice - at least for what the TC/central differential "sees".

PS: I am curious too about the driveshaft. It has lifetime warranty, I have an extra car, so I guess I will keep taking it back to store until is right

 

[delexploder]

Or you may be able to get a good used one from boominxplorer , he probably has a few

 

[masospaghetti]

Well, maybe your VC is already permanently "locked" (damaged)? My "slipping" was just at start-up with a cold VC.
But driving with it like that is SIMILAR with your front wheels slipping permanently on ice - at least for what the TC/central differential "sees".

PS: I am curious too about the driveshaft. It has lifetime warranty, I have an extra car, so I guess I will keep taking it back to store until is right

With the front shaft installed the truck drives fine, so I think the VC is still functioning correctly.

For $150 that really is a steal. Used shafts go for about $100.

 

[SoNic67]

UPDATE:

The part number from CRS (N94510) matches a 2 door explorer. Advance Auto has it wrong on their site...
I found out too late the pdf catalog from CRS:
http://www.crsautomotiveparts.com/assets/uploads/catalogs/2013_PROP_SHAFT_CATALOG.pdf
Looks like the AWD V8 is different part number (N92943) from 4x4 V6 (N92936) - even for the 4 door.

I ordered the Dorman repair kit 932-201, hopefully that would match my AWD shaft. At least on Dorman site it says it does