Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread | Page 22 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread

The new turd mobile. 2000 Mountaineer v8 awd.



The bad:

Was living it's prior life on a dusty road. Must tear out interior and deep clean.
Driver window off track "or something" and will not roll down. It tries but the rear part wants to stay up.

3 out of 4 door handles have issues. I have 4 new outer handles on order.
Cracked passenger side tail light housing. ( Ebay for some cool tail lights)

Compass-Thermometer thingy lit up and went out--idunno bout that yet

Door locks seem sticky, probably has to do with the handles.
It has a funky purple color trim with red metallic ( you'll have that every now and then) :(

The good
Gas tank was full
109k miles
I am the 2nd owner!!
Is from the local area, which means no salt!
The undercarriage is fairly clean
No dents to underside panels
Good rubber
Camber shims already installed
Looks like good service records, all recalls were completed.
Clean carfax believe it or not.

The "maybe" bad

The original owner, told the dealership it had a bad "heater core" however I have run it for several cycles, over an hour each idling in the driveay and see no leaks.
However, there was evidence of a windshield leak or the like,I saw condensation on the inside of the windows this AM. The moisture smell is that of water only-no anti freeze smell. I am thinking it could also be a cowl drain which is clogged???? but she did say the passenger carpet got wet.

I tried to get heat, however it is an auto climate control. Being 90 degrees outside, I doubt it would have given me heat.The heater core hoses were hot, and the coolant bypass valve does operate. AC blows Ice cold.

Maybe she meant to say "heater door"???

Anyway--here are the pics.



My intent is to drive this and use it as a tow rig for a light weight off road toy. Mods will be minimal. Edit: This plan did not work out so on to plan "b"

Current visual status

001-8_zps25438bd5.jpg


Progress pictures
025.jpg


026.jpg


027.jpg


028.jpg


031.jpg


032.jpg


044.jpg


043.jpg


042.jpg

038.jpg


Now, let's clean it up a little


Herculine'rd rocker panels. Rock sliders installed

005-4.jpg


004-3.jpg



BW 4406 True 4x4 Manual transfer case ( AKA Mouse entry point) installed 8-27-2012
Installed newer Tcase from a 2003 11-14-15

003-7.jpg

Saw a rainbow in Colorado so yeah, time for a picture
119.jpg

And here she is, on top of the highest pass road in North America. Careful tire placement a must!!!
041-1.jpg


2-2-2013

Changed "color scheme" of the Dick Cepek DC1 wheels. New Falken Wildpeak AT 31x1050x15

005_zps519396ed.jpg


Then I decided Maroon washer on the wheels would look better

006_zps9145ce92.jpg


003_zpse4691714.jpg


Update 6-6-2013

New bumpers, winch and Pro LED light . Front Bumper from RLC, Skid plate from RCI, rear bumper from Kert307


001-8_zps25438bd5.jpg


002_zps7dd4e30f.jpg


Rear anti sway disconnects

004_zps1b757042.jpg


Update 9-2-2014
A cracked radiator at 70mph led to engine failure. Replaced with a freshened up a bit 80k mile engine starting on page 23

001_zps0a3e1791.jpg



Found another rainbow in Kansas.

008_zpsarhv1lwt.jpg
 



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Your front diff sure moves alot
 



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As a matter of fact, I am suspect of u joints. Sheri and I were discussing this very thing last evening.

I do intend to replace all 5 of em. Problem though, I do not know which sizes I need. Both shafts are "custom" and without tearing them out to measure them I am at a loss what to do about it.

I "think" I have a expedition rear drive shaft, I know the front is a double "C" --I assume the front yoke joint to be the same as Explorer. I would assume the Double cardan unit is from an explorer.
I would actually enjoy looking up the part numbers if I knew what to look for.

[MENTION=165306]Stang5lgt[/MENTION] Help? :D

All the front ones are 1310. The rear shaft I believe uses a 1350 or 1330. Ford, Dodge, GM, and Jeep all use those joints. The front just tell them 92 Ranger front shaft. Ranger uses the same 1310 joints on there rear shaft also. Everything bigger then a 1350 goes to 1400 series and that is what Super Dutys use.
 






You've reminded me.. I have been putting off replacing the u-joints on my Explorer as well. Have the parts already (assuming O'Reillys gave me the right ones) just gotta get the garage heated up and do it. If ya need help with yours just holler.
 






You've reminded me.. I have been putting off replacing the u-joints on my Explorer as well. Have the parts already (assuming O'Reillys gave me the right ones) just gotta get the garage heated up and do it. If ya need help with yours just holler.

Sounds like we could use my hydraulic press! Hope you don't mind waiting until after Christmas. Would that be alright? If so we could knock out both trucks. :thumbsup:
 






Oh yea, January would be good. We're still recovering from the wedding/honeymoon.. lol.
 






Being selectively compulsively weird, I looked at our faded black-turning a weird purplish gray winch cover and said to myself " ya know, they make dye for this kind of thing"
I added a pack of black dye to MLB's shopping list and waited. :shifty_ey:shifty_ey

Yeah, she came back home. Phew, that was a close one. ;)

I followed the instructions for a strong batch, added some vinegar and soaked the winch cover overnight, then, allowed it to drip dry outside.

Once it was dry, I rinsed out all the excess dye and ended up with a purplish gray winch cover. Neoprene will not take dye I guess. Everything else I touched did though.
 






Lmao
 






LoL maybe she bought purlish grey dye? :)

Sent from my H866C using Forum Runner
 












Pictures so we all know I tried to get that stubborn bolt-

007_zps61fd7f31.jpg


005_zps62d4e674.jpg


The new bolt. It is very upset now, because I am putting it back on the shelf-

003_zps5ed53927.jpg


And this is going in.

004_zpsc6737cd2.jpg


I'll pop the cover and change the fluid once it is in the truck


I took a chisel to the locked cross pin bolt to knock off the welded material, the bolt turned and It came out easily. I can now replace the bent axle. Well, not right now. But soon. Then this axle can go back under the Mounty.
 






Soon as in after your ribs have had a chance to heal?:eek:
 






Soon as in after your ribs have had a chance to heal?:eek:


Well, yeah. I am out of commission for a bit. :(

The bolt came out before my accident. :thumbsup: I doubt I could even pick up a hammer today.
 






No more attic acrobatics for awhile ;)
 






Ouch, that sounds worse than my leg going through my deck.

I found another rotted piece of wood on Tuesday, it was the other end of the same one piece that had broken last year. My knee got twisted/bent on one of the cross beams as I fell on my butt, with the sprayer(Roundup) in hand. No blood, but it is still very tender. I better replace the deck pieces soon.
 






I am in the process of ordering driveline parts. I think I have the u joints figured out, however I need to verify this is the proper Double cardan ball replacement kit please!

Moog 617


http://www.amazon.com/Moog-617-Ball.../ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

the ball goes into this thingy between the u joints


41DMWEFD1HL.jpg

Yeppers, that's the one. O'Reilly's carries it too.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...35&year=1995&make=Ford&categoryRedirect=04078

Same part fits 94-10 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 too. Found it on Parts Geek for a lot less, but not sure how much shipping would be.

http://www.#########.com/t2yyhrw-do...p=pp&utm_term=Dodge+Double+Cardan+CV+Ball+Kit
 






Have fun putting that together. IIRC, it's a B***H!
 






Yeppers, that's the one. O'Reilly's carries it too.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...35&year=1995&make=Ford&categoryRedirect=04078

Same part fits 94-10 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 too. Found it on Parts Geek for a lot less, but not sure how much shipping would be.

http://www.#########.com/t2yyhrw-do...p=pp&utm_term=Dodge+Double+Cardan+CV+Ball+Kit

Have fun putting that together. IIRC, it's a B***H!

You guys :D that was days ago--look here

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=406422

I think the DC i causing my vibration, so, I am going to go with an f150 drive shaft.
 












Well,,, color me purple. You had a side thread answering the questions you asked in this one :shifty_ey


Well, pay attention! :D

I wasn't getting much in here, so I cross posted. ;)
 



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Headlights were yellowish looking. I took them off a while ago to try to polish them off with mediocre results. So, I found a set on ebay from a seller in Gardner,Ks for under 42.00 shipped.

The seller is am-autoparts. I got them the very next day!

Install went a little more difficult than I had planned since my curved snap ring pliers went MIA

And no, you cannot make a curved set out of a straight set. You can however make a broken set ---:mad:

So, I got some new snap ring pliers off Amazon, still the Mountaineer headlight retaining clips fooled me. Somewhere there is a tool for this-----

also, the 2 top adjusting rods ( for vertical adjustment of beam) is very close to the rad support. Looking for 4mm wrench to adjust these-

Funny, of all things I have never adjusted a mountaineer headlight beam to this extent. They have always just been a hair off -I used pliers.
 






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