Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

[Stic-o]

Well, I was going to put some more miles on the transfer case and the old tires before I replaced them with the intention of wearing the old tires instead of the new set. Then I got to thinking about the fact that the last time I bought tires for the Explorer was almost seven years ago. The old tires are less than half way worn. These new tires have a 40,000 mile warranty, which I will never hit. There is no real practical reason to not go ahead and swap them out.

I was also going to make sure and have 500 miles on the transfer case before I flat towed behind the RV. Since no one seems to be interested in going camping, I am going to plan a solo tent camping trip in the near future. That will exceed the 100 or so miles I need to hit the 500 mile break-in recommended by AA, and give me some alone time with the Explorer (and the dog, of course). I only have a few things to do besides mounting the new tires before heading out on a mini-adventure; replace the speedo cable, fix a leaky air line and install the skid plates.

Let me know if end up a TruckHaven or something. If it's a Saturday, I'll cruise down for the day and do some trails with you. It will be in the Ranger, but it's perfectly capable now.

 

[BKennedy]

Maxxix Razr's are mounted on the wheels but not on the Explorer. Pulled the instrument cluster to remove the speedo cable and got a new supercustombitchenawesome speedo cable from "The Speedo Shop". I should have time to get the tires and speedo cable installed tomorrow.

While I was at the Speedo Shop I noticed several repaired instrument clusters in the front waiting to be picked up. The clear plastic faces looked new and didn't seem to have a scratch on them. I asked the guy how he got those older clusters to look so new. He said he uses any plastic wax or headlight restorer on them. He gets his supplies from Walmart.

 

[BKennedy]

Got the tires on the Explorer, got the new speedo cable installed and the dash all back together, fixed a leak in my air compressor line, and straightened my steering wheel. No time for a drive today.

The Razr's are much wider and taller than the KM2's. So much so that I think they will rub when stuffed. They also stick out beyond the body about an inch more than the KM2's. Funny that different manufactures have different opinions about width and diameter of tires with a stated width and diameter. No way 37's would fit without a major redo, which I am not doing.

 

[Stic-o]

It's funny you say that, even though I'm on 37's I feel the old MTR's run small. My new 33's (32.8) look huge on the Ranger.

 

[gmanpaint]

Those tires look great on the truck! I dig.

 

[BKennedy]

It's funny you say that, even though I'm on 37's I feel the old MTR's run small. My new 33's (32.8) look huge on the Ranger.

In a few weeks the Ranger tires will look smaller..

Those tires look great on the truck! I dig.

They do look good but I need to get them dirty. Need to put some more miles on the transfer case and introduce the tires to dirt. Then, I can change out the transfer case fluid and install the skid plates.

I just realized I don't have anything I want to do to the Explorer project wise. I'm sure I will think of something, but for now, DONE! Oh, wait......I did purchase a in-line filter for the power steering. I was going to install when I had the tires off, but then decided the steering is working well right now so why mess with it. I will wait until I decide to get a new steering box. Not really what I would consider a project anyways.

I think I solved the steering issue I was having with the rod ends and a dead spot. I rotated the tie rod so the saddle for the drag link is angled slightly forward. Now, it doesn't rotate when I turn the steering wheel and the dead spot disappeared.

 

[BKennedy]

I forgot that I switched the Atlas shifter knobs. The knobs included in the kit are sharp edge plastic. Didn't like how they felt. I got flat edge aluminum with etched white. Etching is on side and top. They are a little taller and don't seem to dig into my leg as much. With the flat sides, there is more room in between the knobs. They are about an inch apart.
The picture makes it look like they are not straight to each other, but they are near perfect.

 

[gmanpaint]

Ok.... question time.

Did you heat the atlas shifters to bend them, and repaint after? I could stand to move mine to the console some. The front shifter knob hits my calf, in N, and drives me crazy.

Where did you get the new knobs from, AA?

 

[BKennedy]

Knobs are from AA. I cut, shortened, welded them back together, and bent them, then painted them. They bend fairly easy with the flat part in a vice. The front knob does contact my leg in N, it's just not on a sharp edge like the old knobs.

Page 116 of this thread shows what I did to modify the shifter rods. With the 700R4 transmission, the Atlas ends up about 5.5" forward.

 

[gmanpaint]

Ok thanks. I seen pics of them hanging, but guess I missed how you modified them.

The orientation I have them, is with the rails lower bend pointing inwards. Still not enough to get them as close to the center as I want the knobs. I just need to bend that elbow more, by opening it straighter.

The atlas does have that tube and all thread rod, that I can make shorter, but then the seat will hit them if I do that.

Those flat side knobs look like the ones they use in the jeep console setup so they can get real close to each other.

Looks like I got some work to do, and some parts to buy. Might put the corbeau seats back in after this.

 

[tdavis]

You need a set of these installed:

https://www.mastercraftsafety.com/mastercraft-baja-rs.html

Much better for your butt than the stock seats.

 

[BKennedy]

I like my 7 way adjustable seats. Everything still works, even the lumbar support.

I drove the Explorer on the highway today, about 20 miles to a dressage show. Surface streets and freeway. The tires are not quiet, but not too loud, definitely not quiet as advertised. They are very smooth, but I haven't even worn the vent spews off the tread yet. Can feel the larger lugs only when nearly stopped, which is kind of fun.
Only pic I got.

 

[410Fortune]

wow look at the 4 hoof independent suspension on that equine! talk about ground clearance! @tdavis is right though that drivers seat looks a bit stiff

 

[Kirby N.]

I am like your tires. They look great. I am looking at getting two new 35” bfg at tires because my fronts are ready and for $200 more I can get 4 razors- that’s tempting. How is the quality of maxxis?

 

[BKennedy]

I have not had them off-road yet, but they are very smooth on the highway. I thought they were a little bouncy, but the tire shop put 35 pounds of air in them. I dropped it down to 30. They are big 35's. Larger in diameter than my KM2's by a .05", and the tread itself is 2" wider (11"). I remember the KM2's barely clear the inside edge of the rear fenders so I decided to do a redneck fender flare/tuck. I got out my vice grips, and a BFH and went to town. I turned the inside edge in so its almost flush with the body and knocked the fender out a little in the center. Didn't get too carried away because there is bondo on both quarters and I was afraid of cracking it. Cracked it a little anyways, but its hard to see. I didn't crack any paint off the front of the fender, so I was happy. If the tires rub now, they won't get cut up by the fenders.

Kirby, if you do decide to go with them, get them through dave@davesoffroadsupply.com. Tell him you know me, are from the Explorerforum and ask for the same deal. 4Wheel Parts has them a little cheaper priced, but by the time they add tax and shipping, its quite a bit more. With your bedsides and front flared fenders, you shouldn't have any clearance issues.

I have to add, I was a little disappointed with Discount Tire for the first time in the 30 years I have been going there. They have a new rate for mounting tires that made the purchase much more expensive. They charge based upon wheel diameter. For the 15" rim it was $6.00 to remove and $6.00 to remount, then $20.00 to balance them each. When I noticed there was 6 ounces of weight on one of the tires and the rest had less than 3, I asked the tire monkey if he had rotated the tire 180* and tried balancing them again. He looked at me like he had never heard of that before. I explained that I worked there many years ago, and if you spin the tire on the wheel 180*, sometimes they take less weight. He did, and it went down to 4 ounces. He also took a small chunk out of the sidewall of one of my old tires by crimping it between the rim and the machine and didn't tell me. I noticed it when we were putting them back in my truck. I made him put it back on the rim and see if still held air. Luckily for them it still does. If I hadn't been getting my free rotation/air/balance for the Silverado, I would have gone somewhere else.

 

[R.J.]

Got the tires on the Explorer, got the new speedo cable installed and the dash all back together, fixed a leak in my air compressor line, and straightened my steering wheel. No time for a drive today.

The Razr's are much wider and taller than the KM2's. So much so that I think they will rub when stuffed. They also stick out beyond the body about an inch more than the KM2's. Funny that different manufactures have different opinions about width and diameter of tires with a stated width and diameter. No way 37's would fit without a major redo, which I am not doing.
View attachment 175040
View attachment 175041

I've read that 35" razrs look almost like 37's.

 

[BKennedy]

The Razr's are much bigger than the KM2's I took off. I took the Explorer out yesterday for a 120 mile drive. Only dirt was a 20 or so mile graded forestry road that goes from Julian to Alpine. The tires grip very well and their highway manners are fine.

The good news is I got my break in miles and a few extra so I can change the transfer case fluid and install the skid plates. Also need to change the speedo gear again as the one I installed based upon the charts is 4-5 MPH fast. I already purchased the new gear.

The only thing I don't like about the Atlas install is the front driveshaft. I know the front output is at the same spot as when I had the NP231, but the shaft is a little shorter. The angles are all wrong at the front axle yoke for a double cardan joint, but they have been like that since the SAS. I can't rotate the housing to line them up because the HP D44 will be into my engine cross member. As far as I know, lining up the axle output with the drive shaft is for highway vibration, which I don't have to worry about with the front axle. I think it will be fine but time will tell. I know Tom Woods makes a super duper flex CV, but its crazy expensive and I am not thrilled with their products so far.

I wish I had thought of this when I started with the swap, but I am looking at North West Fab's (NWF) iBox. Not for now, but maybe in a year or two. Its only 4" long when mounted into a Atlas. The Atlas 4 is about a foot longer than the Atlas II, which would put the case into my rear seat floor foot well. The iBox clears it easily. The Atlas 4 cannot be flat towed, which is the main reason I didn't get one. I emailed back-and-forth with NWF and the "boss" asked how I flat tow. I responded with the transmission in P and the transfer case in N. He replied that the box would not be turning anyways so he did not see any issue with flat towing a iBox. It would also add 4" to the front driveshaft. I would have 1-1, 2.72-1, 3.8-1 and 10.37-1 gear ratios. I don't imagine using the lowest range very often with my 700R4 trans and its 3.06-1 first gear, but the upper three would get used all the time. Its funny that I haven't even really wheeled the Explorer with the Atlas and I am already looking at upgrading it again. Like I said, I am not (hopefully) going to impulse purchase a iBox anytime soon since with the shifter they are around $1,700.

 

[gmanpaint]

@Diff Whack Daddy is running the nwf black box, behind the atlas2 I believe, but might be running the A4ld. Maybe he has some insight with that front driveline and D44?

I went with with Pem racing's thick wall drive lines on mine. No issues.

 

[BKennedy]

The 700R4 is 5.5" shorter than the OEM trans

 

[Stic-o]

@Diff Whack Daddy is running the nwf black box, behind the atlas2 I believe, but might be running the A4ld. Maybe he has some insight with that front driveline and D44?

I went with with Pem racing's thick wall drive lines on mine. No issues.

Diff wack has the 700R4. I know because I drove it in Moab a few years ago.