Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

[BKennedy]

I changed the transfer case fluid yesterday. It was only a little bit darker than the new oil, and there was just a little debris on the magnet plug, but no chunks. Nothing alarming for a newer gear driven transfer case. No leaks from the transmission or the transfer case. The hardest part is muscling the skid plate off and on. I used my transmission jack to lift it into place for the install. Sucker is heavy. I messed around with the transmission shift cable to see if there was better routing. B&M shows it for a GM transmission making a lazy circle towards the passenger side, then under the trans to the shifter, which is located on the driver side slightly above the pan. The exhaust routing makes that impossible, so it is all on the driver side in kind of a S. It's clamped in one spot so there is no possibility of it making contact with the front drive shaft. I think all that makes it hard to shift. I messed with it a little, seeing if it shifted easier with any minor adjustments before deciding it was as good as it was going to get.

I was going to take it for a drive to go watch Sarah ride at the ranch. It wouldn't start, just click. I messed around with it for a while and thinking I had a bad starter solenoid again, took off in the Silverado. I got about 1/2 mile away and it dawned on me that maybe I didn't get the shifter all the way forward and it was the ignition lockout. It's always been picky about that. I got home about 30 minutes ago, pushed forward on the shifter and it started right up. I guess I will have to take it for a drive tomorrow.

 

[BKennedy]

I adjusted the passenger side front coil springs as they were rubbing on the shock body. It's unavoidable with the 2.0 shocks, but it can be minimized by trial and error.

The rebound or droop in the front is limited by the front drive shaft binding. I could get at least three more inches of droop if I could solve that issue. The drive shaft is just too short for its allowable angle. When I installed the Atlas, I ordered a Tom Woods shaft with what they claimed was 30* angle joints. It binds at 20*. I clearanced it as much as I felt comfortable with and now it binds at 26*. I can't point the pinyon at the Atlas output because if I do that, I will lose all of my compression due to the high pinyon axle.

The only solutions I see are:
1) Limiting the droop or rebound (current).

2) finding a drive shaft with higher angle joints (tried, no luck). I think a true 30* would work.

3) Doubler from NWF. It would push the driveline back 4", which would be right where it was prior to the Atlas install where the shaft did not bind. And, I would have a doubler. This option is very costly, over $2,000.

I think these are my only solutions. If anyone has a suggestion I haven't come up with, let me know please.

Pic of limit strap removed and tire still planted on the ground. There is quite a bit of droop left in those shocks.

I know I'm trying to get a solution to something that's not really an issue, since the tire drops below the body line with the limit straps, but I would like to get the most out of the suspension.

I think I know what the best option is for me and what I do with it. That's the doubler. Whenever I'm cruising down a trail at slower speeds, I almost always have it in low range. It's easier on the driveline and the engine doesn't have to work. With the Atlas, it's a little too low at 3.8:1. With the doubler 2.7:1 ratio, it would be near perfect mild trail cruising. It would also give me the supercrawl ratio of 10.26:1 for high altitude rock crawling. I'm going to save up for this option, maybe after I get the Arizona house built and the lift installed.

 

[Brian1]

3 options for your driveshaft problems from my experience:
1. Swap to a flange and use a Toyota u-joint yoke/end. They have more angle than a 1310/1330 typically.
2. Verify the yoke you have on the 44 isn't a shallow one. I ran into this problem when I swapped a Dana 60 into my crawler. The stock yoke was shallow and popped my u-joint on the first rockpile from droop. I found a deep yoke instead that had more room for the ears of the driveshaft to nest into at a higher angle.
3. Use a Tom Woods offset trunion u-joint called "super flex". Not great for high speeds because of vibrations from rotational geometry/phase but they work great to solve/band-aid angle issues. I run 2 of them on my crawler and have had good luck with them.

 

[BKennedy]

Clarification: It binds at the double cardin joint, not at the yoke. I'll look into the superflex joints.

I have been told by several drive shaft people that the double cardin allows more angle and it shouldn't matter that it's not lined up properly because it's on the front, so not being used at highway speeds. @Brian1 , Is that correct?

The Explorer wheels very well as is, so I'm fairly certain I'll wait until I decide the juice is worth the squeeze of the doubler. I wanted a 3 stick Atlas, but was told by a tech at Advanced Adaptors they can't be flat towed. I don't know what the issue is because the rear output is the only thing moving when it's in neutral. The NWF iBox can be flat towed when integrated into a Atlas.

 

[Brian1]

Clarification: It binds at the double cardin joint, not at the yoke.

LOL, not as easy to solve as the other. Doubler will definitely help. There are CVs out there that will go 42 degrees but they are $$$ and you would have to get a new shaft built. Maybe swap yokes on the Atlas? This might get you a few more degrees - JB Conversions, Inc.

 

[BKennedy]

LOL, not as easy to solve as the other. Doubler will definitely help. There are CVs out there that will go 42 degrees but they are $$$ and you would have to get a new shaft built. Maybe swap yokes on the Atlas? This might get you a few more degrees - JB Conversions, Inc.

That might do it. I only need a few degrees and that's where it appears to bind. Being only 5/8" shorter, my drive shaft should be fine because I have a 10" or 12" slip yoke.

I need to pull the yoke off and count splines, don't remember.

I looked it up on AA website, it looks like they are all 32 spline so that should fit. Emailed the vendor to check. That's a cheap fix if it works. Even if it doesn't completely eliminate the binding, it will still give me more droop.

 

[BKennedy]

The vendor responded that their yoke is a direct replacement. I'm ordering one today. Will install and report back.

Edit: I have to add this. When I went to the checkout on JB Conversions, I got a UPS shipping estimate of $32. I called them to see if they could throw it in a flat rate box. The owner called me back and explained they are a very small shop, he's not set up with USPS because he doesn't do enough business with them, and he would have to take it to the post office 30 minutes away. He also gets horrible rates with UPS because he's in a remote area and doesn't have a high volume business. He says he gets yelled at on a regular basis when someone purchases a small item from them. He said UPS seems to be going up daily, and maybe it's time to get an account with USPS. I told him to ask his local carrier for help. Nice, regular guy, small business owner, made it worth the shipping just to get a phone call like that.

 

[BKennedy]

Went for a 150 mile drive in the Explorer yesterday, with 50 of it in the dirt. Little rain, some wet roads, cold and windy, but still a good day. By cold I mean Southern California mountains cold, not Nebraska cold.

Went out SR78 to Julian, to Oraflame Canyon trail to Rodriguez Canyon, to S2. North on S2 back to SR78, then east to Grapevine Canyon. Offshoot to Gulp Canyon, back on same trail to finish Grapevine Canyon at S22 in Ranchita. West on S22 to SR79 to SR78, to San Dog.

It's old mining roads, soft canyons and steep climbs/descents. Never locked the front hubs, but did use 2WD low range quite a bit. Top speed in OD is about 20MPH, 3rd with the torque converter locked is 15MPH.

Being very critical, I would like the rebound valving to be a touch stiffer in the front. Occasionally it rebounds too quickly but only after a fairly hard impact. Most of the body roll on the highway is gone. One time I felt a shudder start but only for a second. It felt like it was coming from the rear.

I'm going to run it like it is for a while, with the exception of the new joint in the front driveshaft, which will hopefully allow me to put the old limit straps on that are 2" longer.

Future mods:
Maybe new front seats (like those 10 way adjustable seats 410 used in that Ranger).
Radflo rear shocks and air bumps.
Doubler.

 

[BKennedy]

Installed the new CV yoke on the Atlas today. I forgot that you had to drain the fluid to replace the yoke. I started to wiggle the old yoke off, and realized there is a seal there for a reason. I called Advanced Adaptors to make sure, and they said it's a lot easier and less messy if you drain the fluid because you have to use RTV or silicone sealant on the yoke or it will leak. Sucks that I just replaced the fluid about 150 miles ago. It came out nice and clear. I don't reuse fluids because there is just too much chance of contamination. I am out of Amsoil MTF, so I ordered twice what I need, four quarts. I guess it will give the RTV time to cure before refilling the case. Old yoke came out easy, and new one went on smooth. I forgot to get a picture of them side by side, but the new yoke is about 1/2" shorter and has a lot more clearance.

I removed the limit straps and jacked the Explorer up from the slider until the driver side tire came off the ground. Was about 2.5-3"" longer than the straps. NO BINDING of the driveshaft!!! Did the passenger side, DITTO!! No binding of the driveshaft or the steering. I could see on the old yoke where it had been contacting the double cardan joint. The driveshaft slip yoke still has plenty of contact, so it won't be an issue.

My old limit straps were 13" long. The other straps I had here were a little over 15". I know they only come in 2" even numbered lengths, so they were stretched. The longer straps were right at the end of the shock length, so a no go for me. I ordered a new set of 14" straps from WFO Concepts as they were on sale.

I have been dealing with the driveshaft binding when the suspension really droops since I installed the Atlas II. Thanks @Brian1 for directing me to JB Conversions.

 

[Kirby N.]

Will the yoke fit a 1354? I could use some more droop too and my driveshaft is binding

 

[BKennedy]

Will the yoke fit a 1354? I could use some more droop too and my driveshaft is binding

No idea. It's a 32 spline yoke. If you go to the link, it's a small shop so they actually answer emails and phone calls.

You might be able to clearance your joint with a die grinder. I did that with the double cardan and haven't had any issues with it failing. There is a lot of meat on those, and on the yoke. I tried that with the original Spicer yoke, but didn't take enough off. If this yoke was still binding, I was going to round the outside edge of the dip to give it a little more room as it has a squared-off edge.
This picture is off JB's site and shows a Spicer yoke I had and the new unit side by side. The Atlas yoke AA sells has a different part number but looks identical to the Spicer joint.

 

[Brian1]

Glad it worked for you!

Will the yoke fit a 1354? I could use some more droop too and my driveshaft is binding

No, the 1354s are something like a 26 or 27 spline yoke but there still might be something similar out there for it.

 

[BKennedy]

Took a about 100 mile drive today. It was just so pretty out in Mohave County today. Cold, but pretty. Took pavement about 25 miles to Antares Rd, which is graded dirt and skirts the foothills of the Music Mountains. I went over there because there was snow down into the dry lake, but in the 1.5 hours it took me to get around to getting there, it was mostly gone.

Came back freestyle by cutting across from Route 66 through the desert between Long Mountain and Kingman. Kept taking every dirt road pointed westerly. Ended up popping out onto Stockton Hill Rd four miles from my property. The roads were a muddy and wet. I'm not a fan of mud, but after I went through a slimy puddle that threw black nasty stuff all over the Explorer I figured it didn't matter and just drove along at a good clip, puddles or not. Washed off a lot of the black nasty, replaced it with mostly wet sand.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Took a about 100 mile drive today. It was just so pretty out in Mohave County today. Cold, but pretty. Took pavement about 25 miles to Antares Rd, which is graded dirt and skirts the foothills of the Music Mountains. I went over there because there was snow down into the dry lake, but in the 1.5 hours it took me to get around to getting there, it was mostly gone.
View attachment 439407

View attachment 439408
Came back freestyle by cutting across from Route 66 through the desert between Long Mountain and Kingman. Kept taking every dirt road pointed westerly. Ended up popping out onto Stockton Hill Rd four miles from my property. The roads were a muddy and wet. I'm not a fan of mud, but after I went through a slimy puddle that threw black nasty stuff all over the Explorer I figured it didn't matter and just drove along at a good clip, puddles or not. Washed off a lot of the black nasty, replaced it with mostly wet sand.
View attachment 439409

mud, mud, mud!!!!! love the mud, only thing bad is once it gets in the engine bay.... wont see it again... an dit gets stuck...

 

[tdavis]

Mud in the radiator just sucks.

 

[Stic-o]

Mud in the radiator just sucks.

Mud anywhere sucks!

 

[Rick]

IH8MUD

 

[BKennedy]

Make a good license plate.
On my 300Z TT I had ILK2SPD

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Make a good license plate.
On my 300Z TT I had ILK2SPD

was this during your tenure as a cop?

 

[BKennedy]

was this during your tenure as a cop?

Yes, sergeant was not amused.