Bronco II= no run now

[Stic-o]

The more I read about the TFI, it sure does sound like that is the problem! Once it gets warm it dies, and once it cools it runs again. I'm guessing the stuff I have replaced so far were fine, and it's been the TFI the whole time. Now that I think about it none of this started hapining till I ran the A/C in traffic for awile the other day. Maybe I got the engine to hot and it took out the TFI. Although the temp gauge never got over the middle.

Maybe I'm just stabbing in the dark here, I just want to figure this thing out

 

[Tbars4]

you are not going crazy...well maybe but, i had a similar thing happen on a toyota truck....when i got it it had the glove box full of fuses, new in the box...i bought the truck in the spring and when it came winter i found out what the fuses was for...there was a short connected to the heater and it would only short after the truck had been running for awhile with the heater on...i know it really don't help but our trucks want to test us first to see if we are really going to take care of them ...

 

[Tbars4]

by chance, have you seen this link...i thought you might be interested, idk...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188961

 

[410Fortune]

JT no this distributor is not vacuum advance

TFI module is working if the truck is running

For your craz idle situation I would first remove and clean the IAC valve
then check the voltage of your TPS
Idle is set at the TB on these trucks with an idle set screw, your throttle body should be clena clean clean.
then check all your vacuum connections and hoses.

If the truck has spark and runs the TFI is working

Your distributor is an electronic pickup type, the computer controlls the timing retard and advance BUT you can set the base timing, you might wanna check the base timing. You have to remove the timing pil and then set the timing, I had my 2.9L bumped up to 15 with my ignition and breathing mods, I believe the base timing should be 12 degrees before TDC.

If you have not already done so get a new cap and rotor, I prefer the ones that use brass contacts

Now I have a treat for you, yesterday I grabbed the WARN D28 hubs and I also found my old 2.9L throttle body! You can have them both.
The throttle body I have is from a 86 model year, they were slightly larger in bore. It has also been worked over by me 10 years ago with a dremmel tool, the leading edge of the TB had been knife edged It flows pretty well!

 

[410Fortune]

FYI once you get sick off all this 1988 ignition junk you can do one of two things:

convert your 2.9L to use MAS and DIS
or convert to a 4.0L with MAS and DIS

 

[Stic-o]

Jamie I read some things on line about people saying that there TFI went bad and after 10 miles of driving, the truck would die, until it's cooled off. Something about the TFI being temp sensitive, That pretty much sounds like what my truck is doing.

also the crazy idle sounds like the power level is pulsing? but runs fine when you give it gas.

I have replased the cap and rotor already.

 

[410Fortune]

as I said if you have a TFI equipped engine you should also have a known good TFI, the finger wrench to swap them out, and some white lithium grease in your glove box

Heat problems can be ignition related or fuel related
Sounds like yours are ignition, which points me to the TFI
the TFI's downfall is heat, it gets hot it fails.

So yeah you are on the right track

BUT

in my experience the TFI either works or does not, but thats just with the 3-4 engines I have dealt with with a TFI (2.9L and 5.0L)

 

[Turdle]

In the old days-a light bulb was layed on the module-turn on bulb and see if the bulb heat makes engine die--

 

[Stic-o]

Now the Jamie, The guy I got it from, I remember he said it idled weird so he just turned up the idle, and it ran fine. I think it's spose to Idle at 850 if I remember right. I think he had it set at about 950-1000. and it ran fine. When we changed everthing it seem to reset it self.

What do I owe you for shipping on the hubs and TB? I heard that the '88;s had a smaller TB.

 

[410Fortune]

NOT SURE YET pm ME YOUR ADDRESS, I WILL SHIP THEN YOU CAN PAY ME

LIKE $20 I AM GUESSING

 

[Stic-o]

Jamie.... Caps Lock my friend!

You gotta a PM.

So I guess I'll leave the TFI alone for now I'll check the other stuff first. Adjust the idle, I'll wait to check the timing till I get to my dad's, because I don't own a timing light

If I get idle smooth out and she dies on me again, then I'll change the TFI. However the Idle was fine untill I started having this electrical issue.

 

[cybergasm]

convert your 2.9L to use MAS and DIS

so it safe to assume the 88 BII are speed density system?

 

[410Fortune]

88 BII is speed density yes 86-89

in CA I believe in 89 they are MAS and 90-91 are MAS

I believe 91 was the last year of the 2.9L

 

[Stic-o]

Jamie, do you have any info on switching it over to MAS? and what all is involved?

 

[410Fortune]

Get 2.9L mas computer and MAS sensor

piggyback required MAS wires on top of your current PCM harness, splice into power distribution (red wire to all sensors)

I believe thats it
You likely need to add a crank pos sensor, but I am not 100% sure on this, that may be only to go from a distributor/coil to a DIS ignition system
later model 2.9L's will have this sensor I believe

this would be IDENTICAL to the 5.0L Speed density guys that convert to MAS, so you should research on the stang forums


Once you do this you are one step away from a 4.0L, that step being remove 2.9L and bolt in 4.0L

I could convert your truck from 2.9L to 4.0L in a weekend
there are like 16 wires that need to be spliced from 4.0L wiring to your truck, easy I have all teh wiring info you would need from when I did mine and others

 

[Stic-o]

Would the 2.8 be simmiler? and when you ship the hubs and TB, could you throw a copy of it in please


So i was reading this page about all these mods some guy did to his B2. MSD, TB, Accel Coil, exp radiator, valve covers and ect. and then I look and it says Fortune's house. LMAO!!!

 

[410Fortune]

YEAH THAT SITE IS STILL THERE!!

I spent alot of time and $$$ trying to squeeze performance from my 2.9L before I did the 4.0L conversion. Back then they were rare.
My little 2.9L screamed all the way up to 6800 rpm, but the day I put a 4.0L in there I was like "OH WOW, all that was a waste"

I had a phenolic spacer, I ported my intakes with a dremmel in my living room, ah the good ol days........wait I am still doing that junk

2.8L is carbed not similar

 

[Stic-o]

Just to be clear, I do not need to remove the Dist. to change the TFI if I chose too, just be nimble. Corrct? Everyone says you need to remove the dist.

 

[Stic-o]

Ok I think (fingers crossed) I fixed it now. I went ahead and replaced the TFI, yes it was a pain Adjusted the idle and she seams to be running fine now.

Now I amd getting a ticking sound...It sounds like the spark ticking actually, you know if you had a wire off and it was just arcing. It sounds like it's coming from by the distributor. All the wires are on fine. I'm not sure if it was like that before though, Maybe it's just the lifters chatering, but dosn't sound like that.:scratch: It sounds like a tazor...

I going to try to drive it to work again tommorow, we'll see how smart of a idea that is.

 

[410Fortune]

hehehehe ticking = check your base timing

the 2.9L has the same issues as the 4.0L when it comes to valve train noises, but as you said this one sounds like a spark tick as in arcing...check it out in the dark

TFI module fun times fun times