-Deathrow Update Log-

[410Fortune]

You should have plugged in the new motor
Shifted it to low, then installed it and used it to shift back out of low. Stopped and foot on brake

If you force the t case to shift from low to high it’s not going to exactly point at the marks on the case no… close but those are only a guide to show you what position it’s in.. they are not accurate marks

It will lock in gear and snap back if you don’t reach all the way into the gear

You should consider a control trac delete these cases are problematic with age.. the non control trac cases are far superior imo

Drain the fluid is it dark? Any bits of white nylon in there? If you have any nylon bits the t case is trashed

 

[DemonMudder]

Gotcha, wonderful, I'll go take it off and swap to low instead I guess..! Interesting that the markers aint 100% accurate, makes some sense but still interesting. Thank you for that! Not one thing I found mentioned setting it to 4low for install, so hopefully that's all it was

Oh 100%, I definitely plan to throw in a manual one at some point, but I just aint got the money or time for that currently. But very much tired of the issues this one's had and the stories I've heard from these.

 

[410Fortune]

I only said that because your case was already in 4 low

If it was in high then you would bolt the motor on in that position

You see the logic?
Instead of shifting the t case by hand which can be tricky, use the new motor!

The motor will shift when not attached to t case… this is a great way to test the system

 

[410Fortune]

It doesn’t have to be manual you can still use electric 1354 non control trac from a ranger or sport or sport trac
Would need the Motorola box to control it, basically wire in a new 4wd control module from a 02+ bypassing your control trac gem module and stock ESOF system

 

[DemonMudder]

Thats fair, but it never even should have been in 4low, I only ever used 4high that night it quit on me. I do see how that makes sense, but I couldn't get either new or old motor to spin by hand so I couldn't get it to match the transfer case, just make the case march the motor. Also, I am shifting between each and the motors not spinning.. the dash light for 4high again is the only thing that goes on and off, but the motor ain't doing a thing

 

[DemonMudder]

It doesn’t have to be manual you can still use electric 1354 non control trac from a ranger or sport or sport trac
Would need the Motorola box to control it, basically wire in a new 4wd control module from a 02+ bypassing your control trac gem module and stock ESOF system

Now thats good to know, that may happen sooner then...

 

[410Fortune]

Try a battery reset then see if new shift motor shifts

You have checked all fuses related to 4wd and gem module?

 

[DemonMudder]

Try a battery reset then see if new shift motor shifts

You have checked all fuses related to 4wd and gem module?

I left the battery fully disconnected for 30 mins before just testing the motor off the case, sadly that didn't help it. Pretty sure, least based off these diagrams. Checked interior fuse 14 and 27, figured those were the best bets, but dont see those or any others blown. Checked the engine bay #7 fuse and the larger #3 fuse and no luck either.

 

[410Fortune]

Could be bad switch
Could be bad gem

I know how to test the switch
Not sure how to test the gem on a control trac
You can check for trouble codes? Specifically in the gem module

 

[DemonMudder]

Could be bad switch
Could be bad gem

I know how to test the switch
Not sure how to test the gem on a control trac
You can check for trouble codes? Specifically in the gem module

Mom's got a pretty good scanner I'm gonna grab tonight and check at least the abs code, should be able to read pretty in depth, so maybe it can?

 

[410Fortune]

It should be able to communicate with gem module yes

What new motor did you buy? Is it for a control trac?

 

[DemonMudder]

It should be able to communicate with gem module yes

What new motor did you buy? Is it for a control trac?

We'll see, gotta figure out how haha!
Also, had a spare switch from my radio bezel swap, threw it in and still nothing.

Doesnt say, but does claim to fit at least, says 4wd and AWD, and wonder if that made a difference...

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/cardone-remanufactured-transfer-case-motor-48-204/19701112

 

[410Fortune]

Did all the wires match up?
It says that is a 6 wire motor
How many wires are on thr truck side? 6?

 

[DemonMudder]

Did all the wires match up?
It says that is a 6 wire motor
How many wires are on thr truck side? 6?

I'll double check when I get home, but it should be right. I know for a fact I re-pinned correctly at the very least. But I remember comparing the two and thinking I had the same amount of wires, should be two empty slots on the old and on the new

 

[DemonMudder]

Took the old one apart, some small bits in there, also quite gunky, not sure if thats just old grease? But its all in the gears..interesting to see inside, anything funky to yall?

Also, only code I've got is the abs one and thats just the front left wheel speed sensor, which has been funky for ages, definitely not the problem. Still trying to figure out how this scanner can access deeper stuff in the gem like you mentioned, but I'm definitely sure it can, just unsure how since I only use this thing on a rare occasion.

 

[410Fortune]

The broken bits
The little black pieces
Those are the “stop” it’s a small piece of hose that goes over the metal stud.. this is what stops the motor from traveling too far
It has deteriorated
Now the motor travels too far and it is out of range, the gem module gets confused and cannot shift it back

Very typical

I use a small piece of clear rubber tubing to replace the deteriorated stop

Clean out broken bits. Add your new stopper… Put it all back together. Reset the battery, plug it in… see what gear it shifts too. See if it matches the t case and then bolt it on. I bet it works better then the new aftermarket piece

The case is marked with hash marks. The top of the selector also has hash marks, if you did not mark the case to the selector before removal then just put it back where the screws look like they were. If it does not shift 100% then you will need to adjust it left or right just slightly

Hope this makes sense
I am pretty sure I have pictures of me rebuilding one of these around here somewhere

 

[DemonMudder]

The broken bits
The little black pieces
Those are the “stop” it’s a small piece of hose that goes over the metal stud.. this is what stops the motor from traveling too far
It has deteriorated
Now the motor travels too far and it is out of range, the gem module gets confused and cannot shift it back

Very typical

I use a small piece of clear rubber tubing to replace the stop

Fair, easy repair! Though I may just take it back for the core charge anyway since I got the new one in. Random chance though, do you know which wires on the t-case motor I could tap with a multimeter to test if its getting power? Least that should, I assume, narrow it down to the gem if it is getting power, just no signal

 

[410Fortune]

I can post a wiring diagram yes

What year is this sucker again?

 

[DemonMudder]

I can post a wiring diagram yes

What year is this sucker again?

Sorry for the late reply, its a '99. Thank you again, but may not need it anymore..

So i took the gem fully out and left the battery off for a few hours, plug everything back in after looking the gem over. And what do ya know, I heard the motor try, but then the whole case started grinding, tried to put it back and it just got worse, shut the truck off and it took a sec but it stopped too. Turned it back on and it was still slightly grinding, ao I just decided to end it there, put it in park and holy crap did that thing start grinding. Grinds in every single tranny gear, now every gear feels like neutral, parking brake has to be set cause even park is neutral. That whole case is in a bad spot now and I've already got a donor on the way. But I did also bench test my old motor and it worked, which means the new one definitely does too, think that fork inside boogered everything up. Needless to say...sooner than later (once I can afford it...) I'll be working on doing a manual t-case swap, cause this was ridiculous. This truck is determined to be a pain in my butt