Solved Differential Swap

[Josh P]

I just absolutely hate working on anything brake related

If you are changing the outer axle seals, the brakes need to come off. Just as easy to hang the disc brake setup in place of the drum

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

We attempted to do the front diff but had to admit defeat, the CV axles are working at really weird angles since it's lifted and they just kept backing off into the control arm, the inside coming out of the differential part couldn't flex enough to come all the way off. We'll try next weekend and probably have to lower the differential a little bit and then take the CV axles off.

 

[Mbrooks420]

So, quick question. How many FACTORY limited slips were in the FRONT differential?

 

[410Fortune]

Dropping the front diff is simple!! Pull one side cv axle first then you can drop it right out and slide it off the other

I have never seen a factory
Limited slip in a front diff

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

Dropping the front diff is simple!! Pull one side cv axle first then you can drop it right out and slide it off the other

I have never seen a factory
Limited slip in a front diff

It doesn't have enough movement, as soon as the inner side pulls almost out it stops, it's at such a huge downward angle I don't think it has the clearance, I'll take a picture next time I'm under it

 

[410Fortune]

No need I have dropped about 120 front diffs on these trucks it takes me less then 45 minutes total to swap one out

It is easiest if you remove both cv axles
Basically take the tires off, remove the cv axle nuts, remove the brake caliper and loosen the abs wire retaining nut.
Now remove the upper pinch bolt and drop the upper ball joint to knuckle. Now you can pull out the cv shafts both sides, no need to mess with tie rod ends, there is enough room to push the cv axles out of the wheel bearings and then pull them from the diff

Once you do that on both sides the front diff comes out with 4 small u joint bolts (torx 30) and 3ea 10mm bolts that hold it in

 

[Fix4Dirt]

So, quick question. How many FACTORY limited slips were in the FRONT differential?

0 that im aware of. never seen it as an option afaik

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

No need I have dropped about 120 front diffs on these trucks it takes me less then 45 minutes total to swap one out

It is easiest if you remove both cv axles
Basically take the tires off, remove the cv axle nuts, remove the brake caliper and loosen the abs wire retaining nut.
Now remove the upper pinch bolt and drop the upper ball joint to knuckle. Now you can pull out the cv shafts both sides, no need to mess with tie rod ends, there is enough room to push the cv axles out of the wheel bearings and then pull them from the diff

Once you do that on both sides the front diff comes out with 4 small u joint bolts (torx 30) and 3ea 10mm bolts that hold it in

Ahhh that might do it, we hadn't pulled the upper ball joint off the knuckle

 

[Mbrooks420]

I was fairly confident there was never a front limited slip. It’s a terrible idea on a factory vehicle.

 

[CDW6212R]

No need I have dropped about 120 front diffs on these trucks it takes me less then 45 minutes total to swap one out

It is easiest if you remove both cv axles
Basically take the tires off, remove the cv axle nuts, remove the brake caliper and loosen the abs wire retaining nut.
Now remove the upper pinch bolt and drop the upper ball joint to knuckle. Now you can pull out the cv shafts both sides, no need to mess with tie rod ends, there is enough room to push the cv axles out of the wheel bearings and then pull them from the diff

Once you do that on both sides the front diff comes out with 4 small u joint bolts (torx 30) and 3ea 10mm bolts that hold it in

Also remember to disconnect the rubber vent hose from the clip holding it to the left shock tower. I forgot that on the 2nd one I dropped, and it yanked on that hose pretty good. I use an old battery to set the diff onto before the ground, that's a good height to transition to, before moving yourself a bit to then lift it down all the way and out.

PS, I just received the back ordered 8.8 rebuild kit with the 3.08 R&P, plus the Spicer/Dana D35 front 3.08 gears. Now I have the bits to rebuild both diff's, I already had the front Torsen and rear True Trac.

The D35 ring gear is almost tiny, it's much smaller than the 8.8 ring gear.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

The last person that took apart my donor front diff used so much RTV that I cannot get it off, any tips? I guess if I destroy the cover I can pull the one off my dead front diff and use it, but I'd prefer not to do that.

 

[CDW6212R]

The last person that took apart my donor front diff used so much RTV that I cannot get it off, any tips? I guess if I destroy the cover I can pull the one off my dead front diff and use it, but I'd prefer not to do that.

Go slow and be patient with that front cover. They are all very hard to remove, even the first time from when Ford did it. Just keep searching around the cover for places to pry up at, and to tap a screw driver in the seam of the cover and case. It may end with some gauging of the cover or case, but it should be reusable if you don't go to hard at one spot.


@410Fortune, Jamie; have you ever considered installing a drain plug on the front cover? I want one so I can drain and refill it without waiting to drop the diff.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

Go slow and be patient with that front cover. They are all very hard to remove, even the first time from when Ford did it. Just keep searching around the cover for places to pry up at, and to tap a screw driver in the seam of the cover and case. It may end with some gauging of the cover or case, but it should be reusable if you don't go to hard at one spot.


@410Fortune, Jamie; have you ever considered installing a drain plug on the front cover? I want one so I can drain and refill it without waiting to drop the diff.

Yeah they seem to be pretty soft and prone to denting. The person that makes a Dana 35 cover with a drain plug will be a millionaire just by selling it on this forum alone.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

The person that makes a Dana 35 cover with a drain plug will be a millionaire just by selling it on this forum alone.

new buisness idea!!!!!! ^^^^^^^^^^^ never seen a drain plug yet, wonder if you can add one though, doesnt seem to hard. did one for my trans pan

 

[CDW6212R]

I haven't looked at my trucks there in ages, but I'm imagining the space at the bottom is tight. So drill a hole in the cover and weld a threaded bung into it, for a simple drain plug like some aftermarket transmission pans do have.

I don't like the cheap trans pan drain plug kits, the nylon washer doesn't seal well at all. As intended to be installed, they are prone to leak on both sides of the external washer they come with. I fixed the one I installed into an AOD pan, I used RTV on both sides of the nylon washer, which held for the years I had it before selling it. I never needed to drain it after the installation though, I think I put about 35000 miles on it after the install.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I haven't looked at my trucks there in ages, but I'm imagining the space at the bottom is tight. So drill a hole in the cover and weld a threaded bung into it, for a simple drain plug like some aftermarket transmission pans do have.

I don't like the cheap trans pan drain plug kits, the nylon washer doesn't seal well at all. As intended to be installed, they are prone to leak on both sides of the external washer they come with. I fixed the one I installed into an AOD pan, I used RTV on both sides of the nylon washer, which held for the years I had it before selling it. I never needed to drain it after the installation though, I think I put about 35000 miles on it after the install.

did it back years ago, at like 30k miles.... 300k later its still fine! maybe i just had good luck though, who knows

 

[C420sailor]

For trans pans, I like to take a castle nut, sand the zinc off, and weld it to the inside of the cover, castle to cover. Don’t weld over the openings. This way, when you pull the plug, fluid can drain out via the castle holes, allowing more fluid out. If you use a solid nut or bung, it’ll only drain to the top of the bung.

Unless you weld the bung externally—which I only like to do if the bung will be shielded from road debris.

Tips for welding thick (nut) to thin ( pan). I really like TIG here. Use a 1/16” electrode and 1/16” rod. Aim your torch more at the thick metal—Don’t let the nut/bung get too hot, or you’ll distort the threads. Do a lil at a time. You want the bulk of that arc hitting the nut, with the edge catching the pan, otherwise you’ll burn through the pan

If you do distort the threads, don’t force the plug—chase the threads.

Not sure if there’s enough room for the front diff. Gotta look.

 

[410Fortune]

That is exactly how we do drain plugs, use old castle but. I probably learned it here from c420sailor

No reason you can’t put one in the front diff
Sucking the fluid out is like near impossible

The factory is the one who used all that rtv!

To get the ubj free from the knuckle remove the pinch bolt and hit the top of the knuckle where the bj stud goes in on the sides w a hammer
Now a light tap upwards on the uca will free it

Yes I forgot about the vent line! I always forget about that sucker until I’m dropping the diff lol lol

 

[C420sailor]

@410Fortune nah I probably learned it from you, but I can’t remember **** haha

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

So now my transmission started slipping to neutral while changing gears, time for another thread I guess.