DIY Explorer 302 Headers

[Turdle]

Blue magic thermosteel. Found it on Amazon. Over 2000 degree rating.
Forget silicone tape. I'm afraid that might catch fire. But as 410fortune suggested, that metal goo, then header wrap might get you going.

 

[410Fortune]

I’ve used that tiger tape stuff before ti fix holes in mufflers, it’s Cool when it heats up and shrinks, then hardens.. but it’s a cheapo depo fix your headers are nice! You’re 80% of the way there! Keep going! Good plan

 

[97Sandbox]

Oof, merge spike aside, the TMH primaries are pretty rotted at the collector.

I've got some ideas and I'm curious what the fab guys think too.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Oof, merge spike aside, the TMH primaries are pretty rotted at the collector.
View attachment 448042

I've got some ideas and I'm curious what the fab guys think too.

what side is that?

 

[97Sandbox]

what side is that?

Passenger side. Fab guy said it'll probably be best to cut out all the rot, then rebuild with sleeves from the inside out. He's probably right. I was just going to use a square nut as a backer and burn right through the thin material into the nut, but he thought that wouldn't hold for long.

When I leak tested last night, the driver's side is blown out even worse, although it does still have the merge spike in place.

I think the root cause is likely the way the merge stars overhang the tubing. That little "shelf" creates a spot where condensation can sit and eat away at the weld.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

sorry dude. didnt know they looked that bad!

 

[97Sandbox]

sorry dude. didnt know they looked that bad!

No worries, there was no way to know without cutting collectors off and grinding into the rust. If fixing them is going to be too expensive, I'll still keep them for future reference/jig building.

I went ahead and ordered some blue magic like @Turdle suggested and plan to smooth the welds on my headers, paste the goo on, then hit each primary with the shop vac to pull the thermosteel into all the gaps. Of all the products I read about, that one seemed to have the highest temp rating and most positive reviews. Like anything, I'll want the headers very clean before I apply it. If subsequent leak test looks okay, I'll proceed with ceramic coating and wrap as I was already planning.

Hopefully at least one of these parallel paths gets me headers so I can get the Mounty back together before winter really sets in.

 

[410Fortune]

Winter is back! At least up here after all the rain now we have 6” snow. Just keep plugging away!

 

[97Sandbox]

Blue magic supposed to arrive tomorrow! Got my welds all brushed up tonight. I did end up making a second, hotter pass over all the accessible welds.

The welds are bulky and it feels like each header gained a couple pounds, but hopefully the leaks to seal are fewer now.

I also started making my close quarters header studs for the dip stick tube and front plug wire bracket. I bought hex socket studs and welded nuts on

The goal is to make them as compact as the socket head screws I'm using in all the other spots.

After cleaning up the welds, I rounded the nut hex points on the bench grinder

Smooth it out on my "sander" aka 1930s GE fridge motor

And after deburring on the wire wheel, I think they'll work nicely.

Just need a thin layer of zinc and they'll be ready!

 

[Jeff213]

It's too bad we are all spread around the country it would be fun to get involved tinkering in other people's projects, haha.

I would let you run my tig over those welds with no filler just to spread them around a bit if we were close by.

 

[97Sandbox]

Boy, that would be great. At least we still get to talk shop on here and see what one another is working on. I definitely wouldn't turn down a TIG opportunity though haha.

 

[410Fortune]

I love the studs! You will need them!!!
Imagine how the next set will come out, with all you have learned and new skill set! Plus you are a header install master, these things are not exactly easy to bolt on lol

 

[allmyEXes]

something about your post #209 grinder motor looks very familiar. In the mid 1960's when Dad was 30 and I was a little kid, this grinder sat on the right end of the workbench. I recall him and later me, using it quite a bit. It now is used in me and bro's shop and gets used regularly. The motor is so old that it has a screw in fuse made in it. That is how he turned it on. Later he added a conventional wall light switch.The type that clicks. Not the early mercury switches which had to be mounted in there conventional position to work correctly. The grinder was new in the'60's. Powr Craft. that maybe a JC Penney piece if not Montgomery Wards. All the good department stores are gone now.

The ancient motor has a Delco Motor badge on it. Forgive me for going a bit off topic.

 

[97Sandbox]

Cool! This one's a full DIY job made by my grandpa's cousin who was a great depression era handyman. The base is a plank of wood and the work surface is all galvanized metal (probably leftover air duct).

I think my dad added the toggle switch. All I've done is add oil and put Velcro backing on the disk so I can use hook/loop sanding pads instead of adhesive-backed ones. Pretty cool that these were made to be serviceable back in the day. I wouldn't doubt that this thing will outlive me.

 

[allmyEXes]

GE, good s@#t too. I see It more of sanding disc table. I several other antique motors. One has a buffing wheel to polish and buff ones own shoes. Dad would buff his work and Sunday shoes. At work, we have a newer motor that has a buff wheel for polishing Stainless Steel.

 

[Josh P]

Those tools will last another 100 years if cared for. J.C Penney hasn't sold tools or automotive stuff in probably 40 years or so. I miss the tool department at Sears.

 

[Turdle]

When I was a kid, I think JCPenney had camshafts in their catalog.

 

[Josh P]

When I was a kid, I think JCPenney had camshafts in their catalog.

I remember the automotive centers at some of the malls, just like Sears had. I miss those catalogs, radio shack had almost anything you needed for an electronic project.

 

[97Sandbox]

Got my collectors welded on today. I mocked everything up in the engine bay to make sure I tacked them in the best orientation. These nosy ladies were very interested

Tonight I plan to finish cleaning the welds and seal them using the thermosteel. I'll tape off the header flange ports and make a shop vac adapter so I can pull vacuum through the collector, hopefully that draws the magic goo into all the pinholes. The can says fully cured in 8-10 hours, so I may be able to leak test tomorrow!

 

[Turdle]

They heard the bacon sizzling