Engine gives out high-pitched squeaking/chirping

[FloridaState]

Hey guys, so here's the deal: I have a 1997 Explorer XLT with around 72k miles and it seems when I start it cold, there is a very high-pitched squeak/chirp noise that comes from the engine. When I rev it, the higher RPMs seem to make it chirp much faster until it returns down to idle. The chirping starts to go away when it warms up, then eventually it is gone. It seems like when I start it already hot, nothing happens.
My dad thought it may be the water pump, but he doesn't know for sure as I am six hours away, at college. It isn't running hot at all, the power steering seems fine, and the AC seems fine as well. I'm really not sure what it is, could it just be a bad belt? It doesn't seem to be affecting performance or anything, it's just really embarrassing and makes my X sound like a piece of junk when it's really not. Not to mention very annoying.

So any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks.

 

[BBBB51]

Sounds like the sound mine made and it was the belt adjuster pulley. I think thats the name of it. It would be a scheeching noise then go away in 5 seconds. Could that be the noise u are talking about.

 

[FloridaState]

Sounds like the sound mine made and it was the belt adjuster pulley. I think thats the name of it. It would be a scheeching noise then go away in 5 seconds. Could that be the noise u are talking about.

No, I don't think that's it. This is a very high chirping noise, and it takes a few minutes to go away. The noise like pulsates, for lack of a better word, rather quickly, then when I rev the engine it pulsates even faster. Basically what I mean is it's not one long chirp or squeak, it's a bunch of short ones.

 

[redneckex]

to test for if the belt is bad or really dirty. get some WD-40 and spray the belt top side first, then the bottom(while running), but be careful you dont get ur fingers caught. if the noise goes away right away its the belt. it may just be dirty.

 

[Turdle]

This may help

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161590&highlight=chirp

 

[FloridaState]

Ugghhhh, of course this probably won't be an easy fix. It's always gotta be something!
Mine is an OHV V6 with only 72k miles, it seems like I shouldn't be having these kinds of problems. Everyone else it seems like has over 100k miles on theirs.

I'll try the WD-40, but I'm not holding my breath.

Unlike others, it does this at idle as well as in drive. The higher RPMs, the faster the chirp. When it warms up, the chirp goes away. When I start it warm, there is no chirp. Like just now, I started it up for the first time in about two days and the chirp was there for a good five minutes, then I went out about an hour later and it purred like a kitten. I don't think the weather is a factor like some people have stated, as it is around 90 here in Florida and has been that way for a long time. I'm really hoping this is something relatively simple and inexpensive as I can't afford a whole lot right now. lol

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

FS, you have all the classic symptoms of a cam
posistion synchronizer problem. When the upper bushing
on the synchro gets dry of lube, it chirps as you describe.

Mileage is no indicator of failure, some go 200K, some go 50K.
I just replaced one on my 3.0 Ranger at 55K.

The synchro's cost is about 140 bucks for a Motorcraft.
I wouldn't recommend a rebuilt Dorman, since they have
their own set of problems.

If you don't want to spend the cash, you can lube the
existing synchro. The top intake plenum will have to be
removed for access. Then loosen the two sensor screws
and remove the sensor, then drip a few drops of lube into
the top of the synchro so it'll run down into the top bushing.
You can use a small drinking straw to apply the oil, by holding
the oil by suction and releasing it with your finger.

A 50/50 mix of motor oil and STP works good for lubing the synchro.

Examine the synchro shaft 'play' when removing the sensor. If the
shaft is still tight, then lubing is adequate. If the shaft has
noticable side to side motion, then bite the bullet and replace it.....

Good luck,
ROE

 

[FloridaState]

FS, you have all the classic symptoms of a cam
posistion synchronizer problem. When the upper bushing
on the synchro gets dry of lube, it chirps as you describe.

Mileage is no indicator of failure, some go 200K, some go 50K.
I just replaced one on my 3.0 Ranger at 55K.

The synchro's cost is about 140 bucks for a Motorcraft.
I wouldn't recommend a rebuilt Dorman, since they have
their own set of problems.

If you don't want to spend the cash, you can lube the
existing synchro. The top intake plenum will have to be
removed for access. Then loosen the two sensor screws
and remove the sensor, then drip a few drops of lube into
the top of the synchro so it'll run down into the top bushing.
You can use a small drinking straw to apply the oil, by holding
the oil by suction and releasing it with your finger.

A 50/50 mix of motor oil and STP works good for lubing the synchro.

Examine the synchro shaft 'play' when removing the sensor. If the
shaft is still tight, then lubing is adequate. If the shaft has
noticable side to side motion, then bite the bullet and replace it.....

Good luck,
ROE

Thanks for the advice. Yeah it looks like that's going to be the problem, unfortunately. I guess the price isn't too bad, my main concern now is how much of a PITA is this? Is it something that can be done in an hour or so with just basic tools, or is it something that's going take a whole day and a lot of swearing? lol
I hope it's not the latter.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Thanks for the advice. Yeah it looks like that's going to be the problem, unfortunately. I guess the price isn't too bad, my main concern now is how much of a PITA is this? Is it something that can be done in an hour or so with just basic tools, or is it something that's going take a whole day and a lot of swearing? lol
I hope it's not the latter.

Ha, I'm afraid it's closer to option #2. The job would be real easy
if not for the lack of accessability. In looking at my 4.0, the synchro
is hidden by the intake plenum and coil pack. You just might be able to
remove the coil pack and gain access to the sensor. Then it's simply
two capscrews to loosen for the sensor removal.

If you're planning on lubing it, that might be worth a try, and less work
for sure.....

 

[FloridaState]

Ha, I'm afraid it's closer to option #2. The job would be real easy
if not for the lack of accessability. In looking at my 4.0, the synchro
is hidden by the intake plenum and coil pack. You just might be able to
remove the coil pack and gain access to the sensor. Then it's simply
two capscrews to loosen for the sensor removal.

If you're planning on lubing it, that might be worth a try, and less work
for sure.....

Dang, that sucks. So is this something critical that could cause my truck to break down or something of that nature? Because I'm going home on the 30th and I think I'm going to get it fixed while I'm down there. We have a family friend who owns a repair shop and he always cuts us good deals; that way they can have the headache and swear words lol. But the drive is about six hours from here, would it be okay to take it on that long a journey?

 

[Firestorm]

Did this fix it?

I was wondering if you'd gotten this issue resolved. It's been a while since I've been around here, but I could have sworn this could also be an issue with the IAC valve. I thought someone had a video posted with the same chirping noises. I could be wrong though.

This would explain the reason that it goes away after it warms up, and isn't there when you start your vehicle and it is already warm.

Try this, it'll help regardless. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84220

 

[FloridaState]

Well I got it fixed, or so it appears. I got the synchronizer replaced by our trusted family friend who owns a repair shop down by my family's house. He said that it appeared to be the problem, and it was a bad part when they took it out. I had noticed it wasn't chirping near as much or as loud in the past week or so before it was repaired, but I don't know if that has any significance to anything. I have yet to hear it chirp (knock on wood) since it was replaced. It was replaced last Thursday for practically nothing, we only had to pay for the part which was WAY cheaper because our mechanic got it. I didn't pay for it (parents did that) so I don't know the exact amount. I may ask later lol.

Hopefully that was the full problem and it's totally gone.

We'll see.