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Engine swap 98 sohc

rydrew55

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Getting better

Good news (sort of).
Checked both diff fluid levels. Front full, rear needed about 2-3 oz. There is a small leak on the bottom of the cover.

I am having trouble accepting that 2 oz of gear oil could have an impact, but the hum has quieted down about 60%. It's still there but not all the time and much more quiet.

I'm sure that something is not exactly right. Probably the carrier bearing. But it ain't bad. I could definitely live with it. But I don't want to forget about it.
C
There was some sludge on the fill plug. Maybe there is more inside and it's preventing good flow/splash. The new oil might have loosened it up a bit.

What do you think? Drive it as is and monitor it if it gets any worse?
Change the fluid and gasket?
Spend a few hundred to get it fixed?


The only other things left are:
1. Cat pipe leak. Last guy cut out a section and clamped in a flex pipe. The pipe got deformed from clamping and he puttied it. I refilled it, and it's "pretty" good, but will need to replace it at some point. They are pricey >200 each, so it can wait.

2. Rear driver side door. Some grease made the outside handle work fine, but the inner don't work. One of these days.

3. Front driver side lock cylinder spins freely. Lock works fine with the button and remote. Again, one of these days.

4. Shocks. Not bad but a little bouncy. They look original (161k). Only about 50 bucks more to have Sears do them over buying them outright. Quoted 250 for all 4. Couple of weeks I'll do it.

All in all, we are in good shape. Still under 1800 bucks in the truck and she looks and drives great.

Thanks as always.
 



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2000StreetRod

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Rear axle fluid

Good news (sort of).
Checked both diff fluid levels. Front full, rear needed about 2-3 oz. There is a small leak on the bottom of the cover.

I am having trouble accepting that 2 oz of gear oil could have an impact, but the hum has quieted down about 60%. It's still there but not all the time and much more quiet.

I'm sure that something is not exactly right. Probably the carrier bearing. But it ain't bad. I could definitely live with it. But I don't want to forget about it.
C
There was some sludge on the fill plug. Maybe there is more inside and it's preventing good flow/splash. The new oil might have loosened it up a bit.

What do you think? Drive it as is and monitor it if it gets any worse?
Change the fluid and gasket?
Spend a few hundred to get it fixed?
. . . Thanks as always.

After I sucked out my differential fluid and replaced it with synthetic I noticed a change in the sound made by the rear axle. You could have water contamination. Since you have a leak I suggest pulling the cover, draining the fluid, changing the gasket, and adding synthetic. Do it before the weather gets cold and the fluid thickens. Besides peace of mind you'll get better fuel economy. Do you have limited slip. If so, you'll need to add 4 ounces of friction modifier.

It sounds like you're ending up with a nice vehicle for a very reasonable investment. It's always a gamble when you buy a vehicle that doesn't run and you came out a winner!
 






ranger7ltr

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A few thoughts...

On the rear diff...I too noticed a change in sound after I removed the cover, resealed it with a new gasket and Ultra Copper RTV, and added 5 pints of Mobil 1 synthetic 75w-90 fluid...I had a wheel bearing that was a bit noisy when I slow down and when I drained the rear diff it only had about 3 pints of fluid in it...

I would drain and refill the diff with synthetic gear oil and see if your noise chanes or goes away...

On the exhaust pipe issue...IF you need to replace a catalytic convertor I recommend the Thunderbolt stainless convertor from www.performance-curve.com... They are a good quality unit and I used them to replace my oem units after I installed my new engine...I could see the oem front cats were melted in spots so I had flow issues that I had suspected when I first started driving this truck...

On the door lock/handle problems, looks like you will be opening up the doors to reattach linkage arms or replace a latch especially if you found a broken spring in the latch when you opened the door...

I am running KYB shocks on my Explorer... Mine had very dead shocks on it and I found the KYB's for about $100 bucks on Ebay...This is the link where I got mine and shocks are easy to install...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

And on the transfer case problem;I don't have one or this truck and don't have enough time working with them to be of any help...I have installed them on trucks, Rangers mostly, that I converted and I just mounted up the case to the new tranny flange and tested the engine...But I am glad you found a jy unit that works well for you...Always glad to hear good things about the vehicles we all work on and try to keep on the road...
 






rydrew55

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Will a 93 rear end fit

I got prices ranging from 600 (a real rear end shop) up to 1200 to replace pinion, carrier and axle bearings. Go figure.
Before I do it, does anyone know if the rear from my original 93 Navajo fit? It's old but works.
Thanks
 






rydrew55

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Update on rear end whine

OK, I found the problem I think.

First, I noticed that the drivers emrgency brake seemed frozen and the passenger side cable was not attached to the lever. Loosened the adjuster and it spun free. Took off the rotor and everything looked OK. Went to the passenger side, took off the rotor, shoe was shot. Pieces loose and friction material mostly gone. OK, so I need shoes and some hardware.

Then I noticed the passenger side shaft had a lot of play, drivers side did not. OK, need wheel bearings.

Better to remove the axle for emergency brake repair, so I removed the differential cover to do that.

Carrier bearings are real loose and wobly. You can move the carrier in/out/up/down and I can also see the bearing all loose and sloppy. Has to be at least part of rear end whine which is what started all this mess in the first place.

I was more expecting that it was the pinion bearing, and it still may be, but now I know for sure that the carrier bearings are toast. The pinion shaft actually feels pretty tight, but I can't for sure know it is OK.

I have never done any work on a rear end so I am more than scared to set the pinion load. The carrier bearings "seem" a little less scary. So I am thinking, maybe, pull the axles and the carrier. Take them to the machine shop and have them press on some bearings and seals. Leave the pinion gear alone and say a prayer. If the whine goes away, I'm out $100 or so for the parts and labor. If the whine is still there, take it to a rear end shop for the pinion.

Finally, my question.

Am I just dreaming? Is this a good plan or a waste of time?
Is there any way to know if the pinion bearing/gear is OK?

Or should I bite the bullet, take the truck to a shop and pay the piper now?

Thanks for any advice.
 






rydrew55

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Are these axle's OK

Do I need helper bearings?

You can "just" feel the ridge with my finger nail, barely.
 

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rydrew55

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Axles

What do you guys think?
There is a little up down play. Not a lot, but you can feel it.
 






rydrew55

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wheel bearings

Can anyone suggest an answer below? How much play is "too much".
Thanks
 






mic98xlt

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I don't know the answer to the amount of play question, but I'm curious if you have considered an used rear end from a local junk yard. Depending on which gear ration you may have it's about $400 or less. You already did a great job on the engine swap, why not just swap the rear end if in doubt?
 






rydrew55

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Rear end

I don't know, just stubborn I guess. I did consider it, but the ones I found were $400 plus $120 for a pair of axles. I think I am just too tired to do more heavy lifting and cutting rusted bolts. Plus, who knows if the used rear would have a bad pinion bearing or carrier bearing. I'm nearing the completion of my rear end overhaul and will be setting it up this weekend. The carrier was loose and causing everything to move. All bearings replaced (pinion, carrier, axle) and ready to set up the gears. So far $160 bearings and install kit, $80 tools (dial indicator, used inch dial torque wrench, 9" punch) and $100 machine shop work). I also had to replace the e-brake shoes and a cable ($75) but would have had to anyway. You can follow my other thread in the transmission forum called "rear end whine" if you care to follow along.

So my options now are:

1. Use the old axles and hope. I figure that I will be opening up the rear again soon to check that everything is tight. Probably 1-2000 miles, and I could replace the axle then if it does not feel right.

2. Just replace them now to be safe. It will be about 130 bucks from the yard or 300 new.
 






rydrew55

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Another hidden problem- brake line

When I was working on the rear diff, I barely touched the brake line and it started weeping fluid. It is the piece that runs between the rear wheels up and over the pumpkin.

This one is not too hard to do, just a lot of crazy bends. What really has me concerned is the one going forward through the frame. You can't even see it except the rear fitting. Does ford just like to make stuff that is ridiculously hard to work on? I think all they care about is ease of assembly in the factory (first assembly line and all).

Any advice on that one running in the frame? I'm OK with the back one.

Thanks
 






rydrew55

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All is good

"On The Road Again"
It's running great. That new motor is strong.
Someone asked before about mpg. It got 17+ on the first tank (combined highway/city).

Went back and got a std american 3/16 brake line. Crazy, it's the only American thread on the truck.

Rear end back together....quiet as a church mouse. I tried twice to hit a targeted pinion bearing preload, but it jumped past the target on the last 1/12th turn on the pinion nut. It is smooth and quiet, but gets pretty hot after a freeway run. I will need to keep an eye on this and will probably open her up in 500 miles or so to check it out. You can see my other thread in Transmissions/Differentials if you want to see my experience rebuilding the rear.

It was a long journey, but all in all a succesful one and very satisfying. Final cost is up closer to $2 grand, but that's not too bad.

Thanks,
 






BigPip

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mustang vs explorer breather

I doubt that the Mustang has the crankcase breather shown below.
View attachment 60443
I believe there's a plug in the Mustang where the breather attaches.

Is it possible to utilize the mustang valve cover with the breather on the valve cover instead of using the EX breather?
 






rydrew55

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breather on mustang motor

It's a real easy fix if you just use the explorer valve covers.
There is a plug in the mustang block where the breather goes. Just punch a small hole and pry it out. the breather box fits right in. If I recall (but my memory is getting weak with age), there are other fit problems if you try to use the mustang valve covers. I think the coil support for 1 thing. I would use the ex covers and breather box. Best fit. That's what I did.

1 year in and still going strong with the pony motor.

Good luck
 






BigPip

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. If I recall (but my memory is getting weak with age), there are other fit problems if you try to use the mustang valve covers.
Good luck

This is what I was looking for, I wasn't to concerned with taking the freeze plug out, i was thinking about keeping the stangs covers, no biggie- scrap pile:D

I hope to have my motor here in a week so in a couple of weeks I will be rollin pony style.

Great write-up! Thanks for the support.
 






Dono

347 V8 Limited turbo
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So, reading this, why would anyone bother pulling their older Overhead Cam motor to do the tensioners when you can just drop in a frech motor?

Here I was all smug about having the ohv, and not tho sohc for reliability's sake. Now I'm just plain jealous of you guys. I'd love to drop a almost new motor in to my exploder.
 






tomj1102

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engine swop

Hi I am planning on swopping my engine out of my 2000 Northface ltd ed explorer. The engine I have found to go in is from a 1998 explorer and looks exactly the same except for one small difference. That is on the plastic intake behind the idel control valve there is a vacum opperated valve or flap on the 1998 and this is not on the 2000 motor. My question is will this cuase any ecu conflict or will the motors be the same electronicaly. They are both sohc explorer motors.
Cheers Tom
 






2000StreetRod

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Variable intake system

The 1998 SOHC V6 incorporated a variable intake system. The intake runner length changes around 3,000 rpm. The lever is vacuum motor actuated and changes the intake runner length. VIS is not supported on the 2000. The control signal for the solenoid that enables the vacuum to the vacuum motor on the 1998 is used for monitoring the fuel cap on the 2000 PCM. If you leave the solenoid disconnected on the 1998 engine the performance should be about the same as the stock 2000 engine.
 






tomj1102

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Thanks for the reply. Just to confirm the 2000 ecu will be ok to use with the 1998 motor just leave the vacum valve control unpluged?
Cheers
 



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2000StreetRod

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correct

Thanks for the reply. Just to confirm the 2000 ecu will be ok to use with the 1998 motor just leave the vacum valve control unpluged?
Cheers

That's correct. Or you could replace the 1998 upper intake manifold with the 2000 upper intake manifold. However, I doubt that it's worth the trouble unless the gaskets are leaking.
 






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