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Solved Everything you wanted to know about PATS.

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
You don't want to leave a key in the ignition for any length of time. I think some newer alarm systems are able to bypass the key requirement. The one I have took a separate bypass module that cost about $16, and I put a spare key inside it.
 



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PATS info

Hi folks,

I'll add my info to this thread. I live in Europe, but I was repairing some Ford Explorers here... Information I am posting here applies to European Ford models, but to my knowledge US models are not very different, furthermore I have some experience with cars imported from the US.

There are 3 types of PATS:

- timed PATS (you have to wait approx. 10 minutes before coding starts)
- coded PATS (requires INCODE/OUTCODE, code changes every time, can be obtained either from www.etis.ford.com or www.patscode.com )
- US 2010 coded PATS (uses different INCODE/OUTCODE - I have no experience with this).

You always need 2 or 3 keys to be coded in order to get PATS system working and vehicle starting.

I don't know if newer vehicles support new key coding without diagnosis, to be honest I almost always failed, so I am using always diagnostic software and don't even try other ways. Coding always happens in PCM, not in HEC/IPC!!!

Software capable of PATS coding is for example Ford IDS http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/wds/diagnosticsites/IDS/MCS/default.asp or FoCOM (http://www.obdtester.com/focom) or many locksmith tools (MVP, AD100,etc).

The same applies also to newer Mazda models. Hope this helps someone...
 






PATS Module

Is there a way to replace PATS module and transponder ring without dealing with the dealer? 1998 ford Explorer
 






Is there a way to replace PATS module and transponder ring without dealing with the dealer? 1998 ford Explorer

There is no standalone pats module, it's only "active antenna". It can be replaced anytime without coding. PATS is AFAIK implemented in PCM, which needs some diagnostics.

Re software for this, see my previous post:

Software capable of PATS coding is for example Ford IDS http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...CS/default.asp or FoCOM (http://www.obdtester.com/focom) or many locksmith tools (MVP, AD100,etc).



J.
 






Is there a way to replace PATS module and transponder ring without dealing with the dealer? 1998 ford Explorer

The critical matching components are the PCM module, the PATS module, and the keys which codes are programmed into the PCM/PATS modules. You could swap those as a set and they would work as they did as a set.
 






So basically I'm screwed! The dealer say i have a bad PATS and transponder! I guess no way around getting them to fix it? I thought about sawping enging into a 98 ford explorer..What do you think..will it work?
 






The transponder is not a matched part of the system, you can get that yourself from any other similar PATS Ford vehicle and replace it. That is not a common part to go bad, but it is fragile and may very well be your issue. I'd find out where it is in the column and replace it with a used one.

The PATS module and PCM are also basically components which never go bad. If what you posted is true, I'd suspect that the dealer is lying about something. Those are very expensive to buy new, don't do that ever unless you are rich. Those you get used if they did go bad, and you reprogram them((keys)dealer etc).

Find you a good local salvage yard and see if you can get the transmitter from them. You should be able to do that yourself cheaply.

Start with the testing questions from this thread at the beginning. Does the "THEFT" light come on with the key, does it flash, and do you ever hear the fuel pump?
 












More Info on PATS

Thought I would add in some recent info. I found on the PATS system.
A couple things are referring to a ford programmer but the rest of the info. is useful.

Bob
 






Thanks for the info on this one...

I bought a 1998 Explorer from the Dutch government. Was impounded and did not come with any keys. Soooooo...

I found a salvage yard that has a set of keys/locks for about $300, but then I would still need the programming bit done if I read correctly. Or would I need to ask the salvage yard for the PCM as well? If I have all 3 off the same vehicle, keys, locks and PCM, would I still need the dealer to reprogram?

This would be the make-or-break deal as I also need to replace all brake elements (Pads, Discs) and a full set of tyres...
 






Thanks for the info on this one...

I bought a 1998 Explorer from the Dutch government. Was impounded and did not come with any keys. Soooooo...

I found a salvage yard that has a set of keys/locks for about $300, but then I would still need the programming bit done if I read correctly. Or would I need to ask the salvage yard for the PCM as well? If I have all 3 off the same vehicle, keys, locks and PCM, would I still need the dealer to reprogram?

This would be the make-or-break deal as I also need to replace all brake elements (Pads, Discs) and a full set of tyres...

If you could find a place which has the special programming diagnostic tool, I'd have keys made and programmed.

To change all the lock cylinders(4) and the PCM, plus the PATS module, that's a lot of work.
 






Thanks for the info on this one...

I bought a 1998 Explorer from the Dutch government. Was impounded and did not come with any keys. Soooooo...

I found a salvage yard that has a set of keys/locks for about $300, but then I would still need the programming bit done if I read correctly. Or would I need to ask the salvage yard for the PCM as well? If I have all 3 off the same vehicle, keys, locks and PCM, would I still need the dealer to reprogram?

This would be the make-or-break deal as I also need to replace all brake elements (Pads, Discs) and a full set of tyres...


In this situation you must take it to your local Ford dealer.

(most cost effective)

Most likely you wasted 300 on parts you just cant use.
Your local Ford Dealer can cut new keys from the vin number and program it.

Or, you could contact http://strattec.carp/ they are the people that provide keys for all Ford and Lincoln Mercury vehicles subject to repossession. (Replace carp with com... I did that to stop hot search terms)

Those people at Strattec wont help you one bit. (your not a lock smith)
I called a locksmith in Arizona when I got stuck, and they mailed me a key.
I do have that key they made for me. :)

Somewhere in the PATS computer it allows this key to be used twice.
This is just a back door function built into the system. Without the Sarattec Key, not much chance of getting it running.

On the GM keys all you need to do is wait, and the system will learn it, not so much with Ford.

I also have a friend that said he was sent a key from AAA, I can not verify this.

Best of luck;
Bobby
 






alright guys i have a problem. i just bought a replacement fob for my 02 explorer. i went to go program it (the 8 key turn process) the doors locked and unlocked verifying it was in programing mode like it should. but when i went to program my fobs nothing worked. i did this many times with no luck. basically smashing the buttons on the remotes hoping for that lock unlock sound. but no dice. i replaced the batterys in both remotes and still nothing. two weeks ago i had to reprogram a fob in my ex and it worked fine, no problems. but now everything is going wrong. am i forgetting something? is my car just not understanding? please give me some information
 






PCM reprogramming for PATS removal

I am installing an Explorer, actually a Mountaineer, 302 from a 2000 model year in an old Volvo and need to disable the PATS. I have the PCM that originally came with the engine/transmission and understand that except for PATS it should plug-and-play. One solution would be to swap the '00 PCM for a '96-'97 pre-PATS unit for probably just a few bucks. I really do not think I need a total tune but would like to keep the latest updates if possible.

Anyone interested in doing just a PATS removal . . . or . . . convince me to do the full boat, big bucks tune.
 






If you never planned any changes to the engine, the cheapest way would be to use the 96/97 PCM and fuel injectors/rail/regulator. You can't swap just the PCM, the fuel system changed in 1999, including the fuel injectors/rail/regulator.

But a new PCM tune would still be desirable. I would keep the 2000 parts together, except for the camshaft. Use what ever exhaust manifolds you have to to install the 302(add EGR bung as needed), look at other 302 headers. I'd find the well known 302 Volvo owner on Corral for those swap part ideas.

Install a stock 302 HO cam(1986-1993), they are all identical, that's a much better cam than the Explorer truck cam. Have a tune made to disable the PATS, rear O2 sensors, and to tune it for the better cam and headers.
 






Thanks for the response.

I was aware of the fuel system changes but had planned on addressing them by using the '00 fuel system with an external pressure regulator, the Volvo's fuel return line and a relay controlled 65psi fuel pump. If the pressure sensor is seeing the expected pressure and the pulsed fuel pump electrical leads go nowhere would not the PCM happily operate otherwise?

I used the Ford Racing headers with an added EGR bung on the GP40P heads. Guess I should go explore the cam situation before deciding on a tune.

Looked around Corral which doesn't seem to have a search function. Further pointing would be appreciated.
 






I'll be watching this thread. ThanksTP!
Interested about the need for injector change with older PCM.
Ross Converse also mentioned running a Mustang cam, I think the idea was to kill some low end torque. Are they that different?
 






The pre 99 injectors could handle the higher pressure, but the electrical connectors also changed. So you need to match the injectors for that, or buy adapters which are several $ each. The simplest thing to do is to buy a set of fuel rails/injectors from the 96-98, and that has the proper regulator on it. The contraption on the 99+ fuel rail is not a regulator.

The stock cam is the identical truck roller cam from any truck 302 or 351 roller engine. The 302 HO cam is a very good cam, unless you make big changes to the engine, nothing else is going to do better except a custom cam. Thus, do not buy any other cam besides the 302 HO cam, it's the best except for a custom cam.

These GT40 engines have very good power ranges compared to any past 302's, more power at all rpm's. The HO cam will not hurt the bottom end. Only a bad PCM tune can mess up the bottom end, which is partly true of some other EFI 302 Fords.

I'll get over to the Corral later, his name is Michael Yount, from NC/SC, and he posts a lot in the "Southeast" thread I believe it is. Lot's of pictures also.
 






I'll get over to the Corral later, his name is Michael Yount, from NC/SC, and he posts a lot in the "Southeast" thread I believe it is. Lot's of pictures also.

Thanks for the info! TestPoint,myself and Michael Yount are regular V8 Volvo swap BS'ers.
 



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Just to clarify;

I have '00 injectors and rail, an external adjustable pressure regulator and pump that can be set for the specified 65 psi and the '00 PCM. Seems like all that should be able to work unless the PCM is programmed to fine tune the pressure with the pulsed pump signal as a means of regulating the rich/lean mixture. I have not heard any comment to that effect. A custom tune could remove the PATS and leave the PCM free to operate.

If I change to the '96-'97 PCM to avoid the tune, I would need to change the injectors and rail because not only the injector connectors are different but the early PCM would be trying to manage mixture with 45 psi software and 65 psi injectors.

If all that is correct maybe the tune is the best solution. Then, if I am going to pay for a tune then I need to consider the replacement cam recommendation.

Did I get all that about right?
 






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