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Solved Ford Explorer 5 speed conversion - Going Full Manual

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
i don't know the break down for manual trannys on the BII. Depending on the year and engine they came with either the 4-speed Mazda TK4, 5-speed Mazda TK5, 5-speed Mazda M5OD-R1, 5-speed Mitsubishi FM145, or the 5-speed Mitsubishi FM146.

Whereas the on '93+ Rangers only came with the M5OD-R1 and '89-92 Rangers had either the FM132, FM146 or the M5OD-R1.

Another thing to note is 2wd BIIs came equiped with a dummy t-case.
 



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Wow! I am guilty of not doing enough research obviously :(

My chances of this 88 B2 having the proper Trans is 1 in 5. :(

The person who owns it, cant tell me what's in it :(

It is a 4x4 though :)

It does have the linkage, and pedals, I could get super cheap as well. :)

I am heading in that direction to help a friend do some things anyways, so the trip wont be for naught.

If it is indeed a M5OD-R1 I will grab it. But to ease the identification of it, I need to find some pics of that trans to use for a reference...Searching I go!
 






Check out this thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=250083

Also, it looks like you maybe safe as '88-90 BIIs should have the M5.

If you're looking at ~'92+ vehicles look on the door sticker for the following trans ID codes:
D ('92-96) M5OD-R1
J ('97-99?) M5OD-R1
M ('92-96) M5OD-R1
M ('97-99) M5OD-R1HD

If you can find a 5sp from SOHC it has the more robust M5OD-R1HD.
 






Thanks again! Good stuff! Real good news on the Trans!

Thanks for the link, I read that awhile back, but forgot about it.

I was going to hold out a bit longer to do this, but the price for the Trans and anything I needed from this B2 is so cheap, I couldn't resist. It will be a bit longer for the actual install, as I will need to slowly accrue all the new parts for this swap. Plugging away a little at a time till I have all that I need.
 






...Let me know if you need pictures of any of the hook ups when the time comes...;)
 






ok,I am going out to look at the b2 trans in question for Gmanpaint, so, in a nutshell what do I need to be looking for in this B2 trans? Give me a visual clue so I can know if it is good at a glance? can I have a pan shot of a mr5od please? Someone throw me a bone here--:D
 






...This is all I got off hand but will look...
M50D-R1_image.gif

M5OD-R1_4wd.gif
 
























I did not pull it, but the b2 trans looks just like the above. I have pics or you can take my word. :D it is a one piece housing, the transfer case is there also
 






Oh Hey Wow. Thanks for looking at it..I didn't know you were going out there today. So when you get your parts in for me to work on, I can go out and pull it. 2 birds with one wrench, sweet.

T-case is a ? Where you able to identify it as well? 1350 or 1354?
 






...Let me know if you need pictures of any of the hook ups when the time comes...;)

Its time! LOL! Installed the 1354m as I got it first.

Removing the 4405.

Dropping the 4405 is a pretty simple job.

1) Skidplate...4-10mm bolts. Make sure to remove the rectangle nuts on the inside of frame or thread the bolts back into them so they do not get lost.
2) Drive shafts....Remove shafts from both front & rear of the t-case, leave on the dif yolks. place to the side and hang with wire to the frame. Front..12 point 8mm, rear..12 point 12mm.
3) Unplug the harness that comes down from the floorboard. Remove the connector to the VSS. Cut the brown wire, or remove the pin from the connector. Remove the vent tube from the case.
4) Remove 5-13mm bolts attaching the case to the trans tail housing. The top bolts are the hardest to get to and one has the trans harness attached to it. The lower center bolt will not come out all the way as it hits the trans mount. Just slide it back as far as you can, and leave it stay.
5) Place floor jack/trans jack under t-case. Pull the t-case to the rear a few inches to get it off the trans spline. Fluids will flow out of the tail housing some. Be ready for that. It will slow once the tail housing empty's. There is a small metal tube in the housing and a small rubber vac cap placed over it will stop the flow for the time being.
6) Lower the case. Watch the VSS clearance on the fuel tank, if you have trouble, remove the nut with a 11mm socket, pull it straight out.

This is the time to either, cut a hole in the floor or remove the floor plate under the carpet, and replace with a manual plate. Mine was cut to the side of the tunnel/floor for the full size console. The shifter comes up on the left side of it.

Installing the 1354 manual T-case.

1) Remove the rubber vac cap inside tail housing(if you did this). Lift up and slide on the trans spline making sure a good gasket is in place on the trans. Turn the outputs a little to get the spline mated.
2) Stab and thread the 5 bolts. Don't forget to attach the trans harness on the upper bolt.
3) Connect the VSS & vent tube at this time.
4) Install the shift linkage to the trans, and connect to the t-case. Have a person inside and go thru all ranges watching the linkage to insure your getting to every gear on t-case. Adjust the floor hole where needed, then bolt the shifter bracket to the floor.
5) Install both drive shafts.
6) Add 2.5 qts ATF.
7) Install skid plate.


Removing the stock 4R trans Saturday.
I am picking up the M5R1 Sunday.
Attempting install after work during the week & needing it done by Thursday night....yikes! Smorr wheeling meet is that Friday! :rolleyes:

Parts accrued so far:

95 Manual 4x4 ECM
Shifter rebuild kit
Redlinegoods shifter boot for full console mod

Parts picking up this weekend:
M5R1 out of a 1st gen
Manual starter
Pedal assembly

Trans has a newer slave with 3k on it, a non-slipping clutch, and still needs the aftermarket plugs installed.

New questions, I can look back here for reference while I am doing this.

Clutch kit? Whats in it, and do I need it?
Drive shafts? Do I need different shafts from what year/rig?
Cooler lines. Do they hook up the same? Do I need to change anything? Length/direction?
No shifter plate for the tunnel. Is that really a necessity?
Plate between the housing and engine. Same?
Wiring harnesses. Same connectors?
I am sure I will have a couple more soon enough :D

Thanks in advance for any help here guys.
 






Clutch kit? Whats in it, and do I need it?
Yes need it - usually comes with a plastic alignment tool. And if the "kit" doesnt come with a slave cylinder, then you might as well get a new one too because dropping the drivetrain just to change a leaking clutch slave is not worth it.
Drive shafts? Do I need different shafts from what year/rig?
No change in driveshaft

Cooler lines. Do they hook up the same? Do I need to change anything? Length/direction?
Manual trans doesnt need cooler - lines can be removed from the radiator core.

Plate between the housing and engine. Same?
Not the same and I think this is going to be the hardest part to find if the M5 doesnt already come with one. I got mine from the dealer and it had to be ordered from the plant where they are made (Michigan) and there werent that many left either. So this might be the part that sets the timeline back a bit since this is not a regularly stocked item and its one of the first item for reassembly.
 






I was thinking that the cooler lines might not be needed, but I wasn't sure.

Great news on the drive shafts! Woot!

The trans has a newer slave with 3k on it, and was told it would be fine. But the kit for it has the tool and was wondering if it is needed someway or another for the swap. Slave is installed already.

The plate I have not asked about from the person I am getting it from. So just in case it didn't have it, I was curious if mine would work or not. Now I know it wont.

Thanks Iz! :)
 






...I'm really sorry to say this...I just went thru all my pics and I can't find them now...:(

...I had taken a bunch just for your swap...
 












Anyone know what size bolts are for the Torque converter?

I am heading out to H-F-Tools to pick up a trans jack adapter and some other items this morning. I was thinking a ratcheting box wrench for these would make life a little easier if it would fit inside to remove the TC bolts.

Another thing, what type of fluids do you guys suggest? Synthetics or conventional ATF? I heard the years make a difference, but not sure which years are what type. This is a pre-95 manual going in.

Edit: found the size...15mm
 






Talked to the owner of the Manual trans this morning. Was told that since I have the OHV engine I do not need the flexplate at all. The '95 OHV is basically the same as the 1st gen OHV and the Flywheel takes place of the plate.

I guess the plate is only needed for the starter on the SOHC.

Anyone think I should replace the rear main seal while I am at it? I don't believe it leaks, but it could 100 miles after putting this all back together! ...LOL!
 



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Don't forget the flywheel and starter.

The torque converter nuts are 14mm. A short extension and semi deep well socket through the starter hole to get them.
 






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