Fuel Fuller Line Release Woes

[fixt]

I'm in the process of trying to drop the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump. Its a 1996 XLT with a 5.0 L.
I'm stuck at the fuel filler release. It will NOT release. I've washed out the accumulated crud to the point where the release tab will rotate and the fill line will rotate within its confines. I can't push in on the filler line at all and I can't get the tabs to release at all. Simple is not the same as easy. I really hate the ford connectors and I wish it had a simple hose clamp, but no, it had to be one of those weird Ford connectors.

Just to verify, the tabs are supposed to release away from the tank, right?
Any good tips or tricks to get this off?
I fought it for 2 hours today and will try it again tomorrow.
Thanks for the help, I really need it. I've got to get this thing going.

Background: I megged the fuel pump at the relay and it showed 6 Mohm to open bouncing back and forth. I have 12volts at the relay base.
The pump did not come on when the key is turned to on. I'm pretty satisfied it is the pump, which dies quietly in its sleep.

 

[crunchie_frog]

I'm in the process of trying to drop the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump. Its a 1996 XLT with a 5.0 L.
I'm stuck at the fuel filler release. It will NOT release. I've washed out the accumulated crud to the point where the release tab will rotate and the fill line will rotate within its confines. I can't push in on the filler line at all and I can't get the tabs to release at all. Simple is not the same as easy. I really hate the ford connectors and I wish it had a simple hose clamp, but no, it had to be one of those weird Ford connectors.

Just to verify, the tabs are supposed to release away from the tank, right?
Any good tips or tricks to get this off?
I fought it for 2 hours today and will try it again tomorrow.
Thanks for the help, I really need it. I've got to get this thing going.

Background: I megged the fuel pump at the relay and it showed 6 Mohm to open bouncing back and forth. I have 12volts at the relay base.
The pump did not come on when the key is turned to on. I'm pretty satisfied it is the pump, which dies quietly in its sleep.

Hi friend. If you are talking about the fuel line connection from the pump you do not have to remove this. The fuel pump can be removed with this line still connected if you are just replacing the fuel pump and not the level sender and associated hardware. Even if you already have purchased the whole unit to replace it, it may be worth just doing the pump (and sock filter of course) so you do not have to mess further with this pesky connection.

Yes, many of us have spent hours on these and if you are lucky, you will eventually get it. I have managed to always get them disconnected on multiple vehicles like this and the ones where their has been a lot of crud and exposure to salted roads were the worst. I used lots of penetrant, twisting back and forth and force pushing the tool in and pulling the fitting apart. Using a metal type tool that pushes open the tangs is what I have had the most luck with.

 

[Mike65]

When I had to remove the fuel tank in my wife's 99 Sport a couple years ago to replace the fuel pump I lowered the tank to low & due to the line being badly rusted (due to winters & road salt) the metal line that ran to the hose that attached to the top of the tank broke. I ended up cutting the metal line just before the rusted out area & ran a section of EFI fuel line hose from the metal line to the pump. I used one EFI fuel line clamp at the pump & one on the metal line.

 

[fixt]

Hi friend. If you are talking about the fuel line connection from the pump you do not have to remove this. The fuel pump can be removed with this line still connected if you are just replacing the fuel pump and not the level sender and associated hardware. Even if you already have purchased the whole unit to replace it, it may be worth just doing the pump (and sock filter of course) so you do not have to mess further with this pesky connection.

Yes, many of us have spent hours on these and if you are lucky, you will eventually get it. I have managed to always get them disconnected on multiple vehicles like this and the ones where their has been a lot of crud and exposure to salted roads were the worst. I used lots of penetrant, twisting back and forth and force pushing the tool in and pulling the fitting apart. Using a metal type tool that pushes open the tangs is what I have had the most luck with.

Yes it is the fuel fill line. I had hoped for something other than getting lucky
I need to get it off to pump the tank down; its almost full (of course it would be).
Thanks for the reply

 

[fixt]

OK, I did finally find info on how this thing works.
Compress the tabs toward each other and slide the plastic clip thingy toward the tank. You may use a hose clamp for compression.
A little lube spray may help a lot.
Grab the hose base with channel locks and twist it back and forth to release.
This was a u tube video.



Hope this helps someone else. Those damn things are a real pain in the gas tank.

 

[EB4X]

OK, I did finally find info on how this thing works.
Compress the tabs toward each other and slide the plastic clip thingy toward the tank. You may use a hose clamp for compression.
A little lube spray may help a lot.
Grab the hose base with channel locks and twist it back and forth to release.
This was a u tube video.



Hope this helps someone else. Those damn things are a real pain in the gas tank.

TO ADD... ALWAYS use the METAL line release tools....NOT the plastic ones.... makes a big difference....the plastic flex just a hair that's basically undetectable to the eye but makes all the difference hitting the sweet spot / release spot.

 

[fixt]

TO ADD... ALWAYS use the METAL line release tools....NOT the plastic ones.... makes a big difference....the plastic flex just a hair that's basically undetectable to the eye but makes all the difference hitting the sweet spot / release spot.

I have never seen a release tool of that fuel filler line size. Not that its not made, I just never seen one or one big enough for the overflow line.
I have a metal fuel line release tool. I tried the plastic before and they are pretty lousy.

The tank is loose sitting on a floor jack.
I did get the fuel filler line loose today using the hose clamp method. I'm still fighting the overflow tube, again using the hose clamp method.
Its a little hard to get in there to work. The hose rotates pretty freely, it just won't release (yet)
Maybe it will come loose tomorrow after hosing it down with lubricant. I did try to wash the grunge out of it first with brake cleaner.
Have I mentioned how much I hate those connectors. I hates 'em I do. There's probably a reason Ford only used them one year on the 96s.

 

[RickOTR]

I have those connectors for the fuel filter and pump. To get them off, you have to slip the tool as show in the video, then with some good muscle, pull them apart. It took a good amount of strength to pull the lines apart on my truck. Years of dirt will do that to ya!

 

[96eb96]

When I had to remove the fuel tank in my wife's 99 Sport a couple years ago to replace the fuel pump I lowered the tank to low & due to the line being badly rusted (due to winters & road salt) the metal line that ran to the hose that attached to the top of the tank broke. I ended up cutting the metal line just before the rusted out area & ran a section of EFI fuel line hose from the metal line to the pump. I used one EFI fuel line clamp at the pump & one on the metal line.

I had to replace the whole hard evap line. Used 7/16" rubber fuel line with those wire protection shells, the whole thing was about $20 with discounts. Mostly for the strong smell of gas. It also wastes gas because the fumes are used to run the engine. Could be .5mpg. Every little bit counts!

 

[fixt]

OK, I did finally find info on how this thing works.
Compress the tabs toward each other and slide the plastic clip thingy toward the tank. You may use a hose clamp for compression.
A little lube spray may help a lot.
Grab the hose base with channel locks and twist it back and forth to release.
This was a u tube video.



Hope this helps someone else. Those damn things are a real pain in the gas tank.

OK I am admitting defeat. The overflow line refuses to budge after I worked at it for 3 hours today. I sprayed, wiggled, waggled, pried, tapped and frammed and it does not move. When I get it all back together it will probably leak
So I cut the hole in the floorboard.
Admittedly it is a much easier method and when these things will not come lose, its pretty much your last choice.
I still think its pretty a pretty ghetto way to do it, but here we are anyway
Fuel lines disconnected, Fuel pump hangar bolts removed, electrical disconnected. Ready for a new pump early tomorrow and then begin reassembly of all the stuff I took off.

A pox on Ford for those connectors.

 

[Pete Deering]

OK I am admitting defeat. The overflow line refuses to budge after I worked at it for 3 hours today. I sprayed, wiggled, waggled, pried, tapped and frammed and it does not move. When I get it all back together it will probably leak
So I cut the hole in the floorboard.
Admittedly it is a much easier method and when these things will not come lose, its pretty much your last choice.
I still think its pretty a pretty ghetto way to do it, but here we are anyway
Fuel lines disconnected, Fuel pump hangar bolts removed, electrical disconnected. Ready for a new pump early tomorrow and then begin reassembly of all the stuff I took off.

A pox on Ford for those connector
I had the same problems. The lines are rusted in place. I spray the connectors with on blaster. Grap the fitting with a pipe wrench and twisted the fitting back and fore. Once it free pull it towards the rear bumper, then you can release the connector. I also replaced the hard evap line, with 1/2 stainless steel line front to back.

 

[96eb96]

OK, I did finally find info on how this thing works.
Compress the tabs toward each other and slide the plastic clip thingy toward the tank. You may use a hose clamp for compression.
A little lube spray may help a lot.
Grab the hose base with channel locks and twist it back and forth to release.
This was a u tube video.



Hope this helps someone else. Those damn things are a real pain in the gas tank.

Oh man, I had to replace my gas tank a few months ago, because of rust. I spent 1/2 a day because I didn't want to ruin the fitting. I used a clamp and zip ties, and a can of penetrant/fluid film. Fittings were so swollen with rust. I ended up using a locking plier and hammer to pull the fitting. I think I deformed it a bit but it sealed.

I was almost ready to convert to the 97 style.

Yours looks pristine next to what I was dealing with. The gas tank looked like it came off the Titanic :lol:.