Fuel pump or pcm

[Turdle]

Picture of readable cap label?


Need uf value and v value

 

[93BlueDemon]

 

[93BlueDemon]

 

[Metalface]

I have an (extensive) background in electronics and computer repair, often board level. This would not be very hard to attempt on your own if you have any soldering experience at all, and it's ok if you don't.
The key is to use a lot of flux... And high quality solder.
My wisdom I offer, however, is that if some of the board is taking a ****, you have no way to tell (((unless you give it a serious check-over that most professionals would only be able to do in a way that you can now bet your reliability of said PCM on)), what that component may have taken out along with it. You will come to find that frequently, when one part goes, it takes others with it, depending on what circuits are fused and what are not. And how much current that part of the board is sucking up vs other parts. You never know unless you truly do 100% know, and I don't think it's safe to say you could guarantee it will be reliable if you only replace these components and check for the obvious. anything that would really be worth spending the time, versus just pissing time away that you'll never get back cuz it may not solve the problem when you're done, anyway. And time is valuable, right?

That being said, what I would do:
-Attempt to solder it myself with new components, because it's a nice big trace with easy to solder pads/contacts.
-Check common voltages + resistances with a multimeter to ensure it isn't totally ****ed beyond repair after I soldered it because I was impatient
-Plug it in and see if it works, and if so, for how long. May last the next 10+ years in this condition. may last 5 mins. may not even work. who knows, right?
-Be 100% prepared to buy a new one or take this one to a professional and know damn well my repair is a fix and less of a comprehensive repair, even though we gave it our best shot.
-Hang up a set of fuzzy dice because now we're gambling our reliability

What someone more responsible than me would do:
-Go get it professionally repaired because a professional would go in depth with a thermal imaging camera and have more tools at their disposal than I ever would on a DIY level, and be able to have them mostly if not fully guarantee the work, so I can trust that it doesn't have to be opened up and ****ed around with again.. to save myself massive headache. They will likely also catch anything you would probably not have noticed, that may have been ready to take the rest of the board out for all you know.
-Receive my PCM
-Plug in my PCM
-Forget about it for the rest of ever and just drive the damn truck without worrying lol

I am not responsible though, despite being experienced enough to do things the right way the first time. And I like instant gratification because I, too, am human.. So do whichever, really. You have been warned! Lol. And best of luck.

 

[Turdle]

5 Pcs 25V Low ESR High Frequency Electrolytic Capacitors | You Pick | US Ship | eBay

Low ESR capacitors have less power losses and internal heating problems as compared to high ESR capacitors. Apart from lowering performance, high ESR values reduce the life of an aluminum electrolytic capacitor.

www.ebay.com

25v will be less likely to fail, if they will physically fit.

 

[93BlueDemon]

I know nearly nothing about electric or soldering but I think I’ll attempt to fix it myself if it works it works if it doesn’t ehh I tried right. The real kicker is the fuel tank is sitting on the ground. Pulled the pump out put it to power and it was shooting fuel out of it. The fuel lines coming out of the sender are completely rotted out though

 

[Turdle]

That's awesome! I think it's worth a shot.

A desoldering tool will help you. I prefer a plunger type. Not expensive. You heat the existing solder, the plunger tool will suck it up. Now you should have a clean hole. If the first attempt doesn't clean well, add more solder, and try again.

Just be sure to add more solder for each attempt. This helps avoid sick ng up the trace on the board.

 

[93BlueDemon]

This might be a stupid question but do the capacitors have a positive and negative side to them

 

[Turdle]

Good question actually. Yes, they are polar, - and + side. Marking usually indicates - lead, usually longest lead on new caps.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Usually a line or stripe

 

[Turdle]

View attachment 444003

In this picture,from your earlier post, 2 white dots preceded the number to the right of the connector. Go straight up from the 2 dots, 2 gold surface mount capacitors one above the other. Straight up from that you'll see a bad or weakened solder joint.

 

[donalds]

This can be easily fixed You should listen to the people on in this thread
They are smart
my favorite kind of thread why didn't I find it earlier

 

[Metalface]

I know nearly nothing about electric or soldering but I think I’ll attempt to fix it myself if it works it works if it doesn’t ehh I tried right. The real kicker is the fuel tank is sitting on the ground. Pulled the pump out put it to power and it was shooting fuel out of it. The fuel lines coming out of the sender are completely rotted out though

Trust me go for it. I would go for it too. But I have free time and not a lot to lose.. If this is your daily, ehhhhhhh... But if you're comfortable with it, go for it!! Good thing to learn on. Flux helps when using a solder sucker. Not needed but helpful.

 

[Turdle]

Some desolder braid might be useful also, just keep it heated while lifting. Oh boy.

 

[410Fortune]

Okay going back a little bit here sounds like we have a combo of issues

First up the computer has no idea what fuel pressure is, it simply primes the fuel system each time you turn the key to on
It runs the pump for 1-2 seconds

The pcm energizes the fuel pump relay
The fuel pump relays clicks on and off
The pump should run for 1-2 seconds each time you turn key
If it runs longer then the relay is bad or pcm

Your fuel pump ahould
Build rail pressure to 32-36 psi easily
Your pump only reached 20 psi and slowly, this indicates a weak pump
Fuel pump, fuel pump strainer and fuel filter should all be replaced

With the pump running continually you may also want to replace the fuel pump relay as well as repair your old 93 pcm

 

[93BlueDemon]

Looks like this yellow bit needs replaced as well. anyone know what this is called or what the numbers on it mean. I’m not tech savvy at all or good with computers. Thank you everyone for your input.

 

[93BlueDemon]

Okay going back a little bit here sounds like we have a combo of issues

First up the computer has no idea what fuel pressure is, it simply primes the fuel system each time you turn the key to on
It runs the pump for 1-2 seconds

The pcm energizes the fuel pump relay
The fuel pump relays clicks on and off
The pump should run for 1-2 seconds each time you turn key
If it runs longer then the relay is bad or pcm

Your fuel pump ahould
Build rail pressure to 32-36 psi easily
Your pump only reached 20 psi and slowly, this indicates a weak pump
Fuel pump, fuel pump strainer and fuel filter should all be replaced

With the pump running continually you may also want to replace the fuel pump relay as well as repair your old 93 pcm

Bosch fuel pump and strainer is on order. Estimated delivery was 2 weeks

 

[Turdle]

Not sure what the yellow component is, but that circuit board in that area is sketchy.


Edit. Maybe it's debris

 

[donalds]

476m +10k tantalum capacitor

 

[93BlueDemon]

thanks everyone I’m going to get this stuff ordered and then try my hand at soldering. Fuel pump should be here in 2 weeks. I’ll post back to let everyone know how it turns out