Good vacuum diagram??? pics???

[Turdle]

OK
I'm posting this in the modified forum, as this deals with my modified engine. However, I need a GOOD vacuum diagram ( under hood, haynes, chilton's no good) for a stock setup
It seems, there is a vacuum reservoir bottle, On my 98 v-8 awd, And I now have it bypassed ( i relocated it for tire clearance). This is causing an egr surge from highway speed to city speed slowdown. Kind of a hunt for idle, until vehicle stops and egr solenoid no longer is actuated. It also causes a a wierd vacuum to the HVAC control, in that the control has to be switched all the way to ac position to get air switched from floor to vents. Blend door is fine( just replaced evaporator core-checked it then-rock solid)
I need some good pics, or chart, of routing the lines to the purge valve, the egr solenoid, heater bypass valve, vacuum reservoir. The egr has a split line which is causing my confusion.
Thanks for looking

BTW when I relocated the reservoir bottle( black globe thingy in passenger front wheelwell) It had about a cup of water in it.

 

[410Fortune]

hahahaha your vac resevoir has a cup of water in it? How in the world?

the vacuum routing is quite simple on the 5.0L really, I have it memorized now! But sorry no chart.....

Your vacuum canister is required for the HVAC system, if you have a busted EGR hose, fix that sucker! I personally hate the factory plastic lines with rubber ends and when they go bad I replace them with good old plastic or rubber vacuum line from the parts store (or my box of hoes, I am sick of hoes, oops I mean hose)

 

[Turdle]

Jamie
On the egr solenoid, which is constant and which is switched ( holding hat up, top or bottom nipple) and if vacuum is applied, shouldn't one give a resistance to vacuum. On my solenoid both flow when sucked on( hillbilly vacuum)
Why is it 3way connection there, and why did I take mine all apart?That 3 way connection is tied to the HVAC somehow. Goes to the bypass valve also?

Remember please, I no longer have a stock intake, and had to make all connections myself
I know a vacuum system isnt complicated, I just don't think mine is right
btw I get no CEL, just a surging when slowing from 60 to 30 mph, which stops once vehicle has stopped. Maybe the solenoid is sticking or leaking?

I have great vacuum,(16 in at 950-1000 rpm idle, with an x cam that is good) I am sure my lines are all good. They respond well to the hillbilly vacuum test.

 

[410Fortune]

in english please

Is your EGR still mounted on the factory elbow?
Do you have any pictures of your 347 with intakes attached? hehehe

if you have no codes then what are you worried about and what makes you assume EGR?

 

[Turdle]

in english please

Is your EGR still mounted on the factory elbow?
Do you have any pictures of your 347 with intakes attached? hehehe

if you have no codes then what are you worried about and what makes you assume EGR?

Ill get some pics

I am using an elbow, but not stock
It did accept the stock egr valve though
I am assuming the egr, because the engine revs( surges) and the air has to be coming from somewhere to do this. It isn't coming from IAC, I unplugged it to verify, and it can't be coming in thru throttle body, so egr valve is only other air path. The surging is 1000rpm to 1600 rpm's. Must have something to do with VSS also, as if I'm coasting in neutral, rpms are 1500 until vehicle stops, then goes down to idle speed.
Try coasting in neutral in yours for me, see if rpms stay high until you stop???

It seems while vehicle is moving, the engine wants to spin 1500 rpms, so when I'm slowing down it revs, idle rev idle rev idle-surging--

Now about the solenoid
it has 2 vacuum nipples, offset from each other. One should be constant vacuum supply, the other is switched, or in other words the solenoid open a valve to allow vacuum to the egr valve. There is a 3 way multi colored ( white, green, and black, maybe red) short hard line, one leg hooks to egr valve, one to the egr solenoid ( double plug) and from double plug also to heater bypass valve? This is the area I need clarity on.
Also, the 2 reservoir lines, on globe itself, which is vacuum( from engine) and which goes to HVAC?
Sorry, I had mine all out, and after moving everything around Im lost

 

[410Fortune]

the vacuum line for the canister (globe) comes from the front of the stock intake (because the intake has that brass colored tube that troutes vacuum up to the front)
one plastic line heads to the drivers fender skirt (fuel HVAC solenoid) and the other goes across the engine, behind the alternator and to the pass fender skirt and vacuum canister.

I will have to look on my BII to tell you the order for the EGR solenoid, I understand what youa re saying, one line comes from manifold vaccuum the pther goes to the EGR diaphram, you need to know which is which
I can check after work when I am trying to fix my friggin vacuum

 

[410Fortune]

also check out this logic:

Was this a problem before the TM headers? I assume no?
So you took the EGR apart when you did the headers and now you are having an EGR issue.
You had a 50/50 shot of getting the vacuum lines correct.
Since you are having EGR issue have you tried switching them?

I believe the RPM's will stay up around 1200-1500 if I am slowing down and in D, until you get to a stop then they drop to idle. I believe all my automatics have done this but I will test for you to be sure.

 

[Turdle]

A pic of the tight spot

 

[410Fortune]

have you checked:
fordfuelinjection.com

?

 

[Turdle]

also check out this logic:

Was this a problem before the TM headers? I assume no?
So you took the EGR apart when you did the headers and now you are having an EGR issue.
You had a 50/50 shot of getting the vacuum lines correct.
Since you are having EGR issue have you tried switching them?

I believe the RPM's will stay up around 1200-1500 if I am slowing down and in D, until you get to a stop then they drop to idle. I believe all my automatics have done this but I will test for you to be sure.

it has plagued me since forever,since engine change. I assumed it was a header leak( stock manifolds) but no.


I hope it isn't a camshaft vacuum pulse issue

 

[410Fortune]

AHHHHHHHHHHHH I see
Honestly if your EGR was not working 100% I would expect a code, I know my friggin computer will throw a EGR code quick if its not working

Have you tried plugging the EGR line or disconnecting the system to see if it goes away?

 

[Turdle]

I can check after work when I am trying to fix my friggin vacuum

If you do that I'll let you meet one of my 4 daughters

 

[410Fortune]

ages and resume's please.
I have to be careful, Single, 33, never married, no kids, own home, IRA, career, you see?
(hahaha yeah right!)

 

[Turdle]

Kudos to Jamie (410fortune)
I now owe you 4 of my fastest racing camels

I am such a moron, was playing with that 3 way vacuum line trying to figure where the 3rd connection went. I was trying to tie the hvac in there and connect it to the heater bypass valve. I totally forgot, I replaced my fuel pressure regulator with an aeromotive unit, and mounted it up front on the coilpack mount. It has it's own dedicated vacuum line---DUH!
Since it was all figured out, I spent all morning routing the lines. and making a mounting bracket for my egr solenoid and DPFE sensor. They are now against the firewall and most vacuum lines-wires are hidden
I was also trying to split the vacuum in to the reservoir, couldnt figure it out, Jamie's 1 picture last night solved all the mystery, and now my HVAC controls switch as they should. Since I have an open element type air filter, it allowed room to relocate the reservoir underneath it, ABOVE the wheelwell, which helps for tire clearance. Lowered with 275-60-17 tires, it had a notch worn on it from the tire. I suspect, with all the large tires out there, mine isn't the only one been hit.
Also, about the surging,
I was having trouble getting my TPS to read below 1 volt at idle. I even drilled a 1/8" hole in the TB Butterfly plate, helped a bit, but in the end I had to do the TPS mod, bore the holes larger and relieve for the bolt heads, I now have .95v at idle.Before it was 1.2 v. I am assuming the vacuum issue, and the TPS voltage had something to do with the surge problem. I'm going to drive it in a while, let you know
I addressed the throttle bracket issue also, cable was pulling from too high an angle, I now get WOT with the pedal, but still no room for cruise control cable Oh well

 

[410Fortune]

I have used cruise control like 3 times in 12 years, and then when I do put it on the guy in front of me ALWAYS slows down....

the only thing not working on my 96 right now is the friggin OD on /off button and the wiring looks good so far..............I am going to jumper the wires and see what happens, if it works its the button itself in the lever...

isnt this stuff fun?
Glad you got your vacuum figured out, I ahve $5 says the surging is still there.

Also I had no idea your daughters were racing camels?
I could take them to Dubai and make some $$$!!