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Heads and Intake 5.0...

Nate_V8

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City, State
Montreal, Quebec
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 XLT 5L AWD
Anybody here running some trickflow heads on their 5.0? or ones that combaribly flow 260cfm at 500? and also a intake that matches it or greater? want to know if they did a track run or dyno or what difference they noticed.
 



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At what lift do you want your 260cfm? Why do you feel you need a head that flows 260cfm? Will the cam you select have enough lift to even worry about your flow #'s.

Keep in mind this is not a 2400 lb Fox...
This is a 4500+ lb SUV.

Super High Lift cams, with heads that flow 250+ are great for 9-10 second Mustangs.....but the same motor in your Explorer will not launch as well, and maybe good for a 11-12 sec time slip with a crappy 60 ft....

Ryan
 






lol I'm looking only for bottom 14s - high 13s and I would be happy with just bottom 14s. I'm only going to upgrade the rockers, springs and rods. I'm keeping the stump puller cam.
 






lol I'm looking only for bottom 14s - high 13s and I would be happy with just bottom 14s. I'm only going to upgrade the rockers, springs and rods. I'm keeping the stump puller cam.

if your keeping the cam then don't even bother with heads or an intake. Without a good cam you'll never make real power. Find a good custom cam designer, tell him what you want to do. He will then design a cam for you, and tell you what heads and intake you should run with it.
 






if your keeping the cam then don't even bother with heads or an intake. Without a good cam you'll never make real power. Find a good custom cam designer, tell him what you want to do. He will then design a cam for you, and tell you what heads and intake you should run with it.

I know a great cam designer. But I'm not justifying myself buying a cam for a DD. I'm just going with :E-fan, rockers, springs, rods, heads, intake, 70mm TB, TM headers and tune. That will make a fun DD and not worsen, if not get better, MPG. I've seen heads for 800 bucks and intake for around 300. for 2g this thing will move, if I want more, then I'll do it later.
 






I know a great cam designer. But I'm not justifying myself buying a cam for a DD. I'm just going with :E-fan, rockers, springs, rods, heads, intake, 70mm TB, TM headers and tune. That will make a fun DD and not worsen, if not get better, MPG. I've seen heads for 800 bucks and intake for around 300. for 2g this thing will move, if I want more, then I'll do it later.

Umm your going to spend $1500+ on a new set of twisted wedge heads, $600 plus for a decent intake, there's your 2k right there. plus $700 for headers, $100 for a TB, $400 for a tune. There's $3500-$4000 right there, easily.

If your wanting to spend $2000 then get headers $700, an intake spacer $60, tuner $400, cat back exhaust ~$300, a cold air intake ~$150-$200. Any an EE sway bar to tighten up the handling a bit.
 






I already have a custom duel exhaust. Heads and intake I have seen those prices a couple times used. Don't really need an intake spacer but don't matter, cai......seriously now I thought we are talking real mods that do something and I don't need my steering tightened up.

I just wanted to know if anyone is running a setup like this and how does it perform?
 












Nate- Even with the mods you mentioned, you still won't see 13's. Mid to high 14's at best. If you were 2wd, then I'd see it being possible.

But tech's right, if you are going to get heads, intake, etc, you need to get a custom cam or even a good OTS cam to maximize your setup. Judging from your sig, you seem to have an idea on how to make a car go fast.

If you want to see 13's or even low 14's, you will need a cam and a stall converter with above mods and possibly a small shot of giggle gas.

Techieman33 is someone to listen to because he is doing what it takes to make his ride faster and has spent a lot of time and money to get where he is. He knows the in's and out's of the 5.0 and shouldn't be taken lightly. Turdle would be another good person to talk with because he has a 347 stroked 5.0 with H/C/I and stalled.

I want to see you run 13's because it will be bad a**:D
 






Limited02: Thanks for your reply, I have been following turdles threads and they are interesting to say the least. 13's would be cool for sure but I'll be happy with anything in the 14s. I will never use giggle gas, bottles are for babies lol. Yes, having AWD does have it's disadvantages, but seeing as why just had a foot of snow dumped yesterday, I'll take my loss lol.

Techmieman33: adding heads and intake will give me more oomph but it just won't be peaked like it would with a cam to match it. I don't feel like pulling the motor to put in a cam to give me the extra time/power/mpg loss. This is my DD that I'm going to have fun with, I have seen 260cfm heads complete for 800 and intakes for 300 and they were not damaged. One day I might swap the cam but for now stock is fine.
 






You do not have to pull the engine to remove the cam. Just the radiator,A/C condesor, fan, water pump and timing chain cover. Far less stuff to remove than intake & head wise.
 






I was told the front frame was in the way so you have to tilt the motor up
 






I was told the front frame was in the way so you have to tilt the motor up

You are correct. The radiator core support will be just in the way for a cam swap. However, dropping the rear of the transmission might tilt the engine enough to make room. Hmmmm,
 






someone's not making very much sense....
 






I am making sense. How many 5.0s have you owned and worked on? But thanks for high jaking my thread.

Oh and thanks for clearing it up that my explorer doesn't weigh 2400lbs......fox's don't weigh 2400lbs either, but thanks for the tip.
 






I currently have 1 5.0L. Check my build threads before talking ****.

I have built 5 or 6 Windsors. I have also built a few GM motors, including a 400+hp Oldsmobile 350...I have been around hi performance vehicles all my life. I know what it takes to get a car from the 15's to the 12's. And I can take that same car and get it into the 11's. I have yet to pilot a car down the 1/4 in the 10's....someday.

I have seen a few Fox's shed 500 to 800 lbs to get down to 2400 lbs.....so don't think it can't happen.

Easiest way to do it, is build the car around a 2.3T....

Go back and read my FIRST post..

Why do you feel you need a head that flows 250? Will you be running a cam that will even allow the heads to flow 250?

You answered the questions already. And your reply made NO SENSE. You want to keep the stock Explorer cam. Which is something like .435" lift w/ a 1.6 rocker....and if you look at the headflow chart of the heads your talking about.....The cost involved will NOT be worth the 50cfm or so gain @ .400". It doesn't matter that the same head CAN flow 260 @ .500

Your cam is still only going to lift the valve .435"....

And having a head that flows that much without a cam to support it, can actually hamper performance. You will lose a bit of torque down low which is NEEDED to get a 4500lb SUV off the line.

Ryan
 

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If your only spending $300 on an intake then save your money and keep the stock one, it'll probably flow better. The only way your going to get a pair of new twisted wedge heads for $800 is if they're stolen. And again as everyone is telling you without the proper cam all of those parts are a waste of money. Yeah you might get a little extra power, but not nearly what you would with the right cam.
 






Your chart clearly shows that at .400 and above, that the TFS heads provide a significant CFM advantage. I will be bringing it even closer to the .500 with the addition of 1.7 rockers, and .500 is where the TW heads die anyways.
 






Your chart clearly shows that at .400 and above, that the TFS heads provide a significant CFM advantage. I will be bringing it even closer to the .500 with the addition of 1.7 rockers, and .500 is where the TW heads die anyways.

Do what you want, but when it sucks ass don't come here complaining about it.

I did give misinformation on the cam removal but hell it's been 22+ years the last time I did a cam swap on a Windsor and it was in a 1965 Mustang.
 



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Do what you want, but when it sucks ass don't come here complaining about it.

I did give misinformation on the cam removal but hell it's been 22+ years the last time I did a cam swap on a Windsor and it was in a 1965 Mustang.

I didn't have any problem with what you said. There's no "but if it sucks ass". You can't deny facts. You can plot it out on that graph right up to .462 .
 






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