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Keeper's Explorer. Take two.

Welcome to my new registry. This is my 2000 Explorer XLT. Bought it from the original owner for $3,400. Came with the owners manual, and the paper work to prove it's been dealer maintained. When I purchased the Ex, it had 111,000 on the odometer, a small tear in the leather of the drivers seat, some sand in the back( take it the guy was a surfer, found a few surf board fins in the jack storage area). Gonna do a alignment when I get the chance, and start transferring all my mods from my Sport into this.

As she stands when I brought her home.



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How she currently stands.
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04/07/11

Current Mods:

Interior:

Exterior:

Lighting:
  • Sylvania Silverstars for the headlights.
  • x2 Hella 500 driving lights.
  • Fog light/ High beam mod.
  • LED Puddle lights, license plate lights.

Engine:4.0L SOHC

Suspension and Brakes

Drive Train

Projects for the future:
  • Quick disconnects for front and rear sway bar.
  • Possibly LS up front.
 


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Keeper0311

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Well I think my parking brake took a dump. Off to check out what's up with it.

Edit: After doing a bit off looking, there is quite a bit of slack in the brake cable. This is above my experience, anybody have ideas?
 


Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month "try out" option.

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Keeper0311

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Was attempting to replace my wheel hub on the drivers side, had an issue with the caliber, the two devices that put pressure on the brake pads, one was pushed farther out the the other. Along the way, realized I didn't have the correct size sockets to get any further then pulling off the caliber and the CV nut. As I try to put the caliber back on I have to put a considerable amount of pressure to get it back on.

I get the wheel back on a take it for a quick test drive, and my brakes are spongy as all hell, no braking effect until the pedal is nearly to the floor. I need some suggestion as to what it could possibly be.
 




Joe Dirt

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Did you need to push the pad back at all to get it back on? Never had to move them on any hub replacements unless I did rotors at the same time. If I had to push them back, I removed the reservoir cap and just pushed the pad back. Might just need to bleed the brakes, sounds like you have air in the system.
 




Keeper0311

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Did you need to push the pad back at all to get it back on? Never had to move them on any hub replacements unless I did rotors at the same time. If I had to push them back, I removed the reservoir cap and just pushed the pad back. Might just need to bleed the brakes, sounds like you have air in the system.

Thanks for the reply. How'd I go about doing this? I'm sure around here somewhere, but would much rather get a straight forward answer, and fix the issue.
 




gmanpaint

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If one of the pistons is sticking on it, I wouldn't trust it, and replace it. Thats just me tho.

Bleeding is a royal PITA and the conventional way takes 2 people. jlsparky has a video on how to do it in his video how to thread in the 2nd gen forum.

HF sells a one man bleeding pump called "Mightyvac", and is around $35 or so.

When you install your 70mm TB, are you going to have a "Tune" for it as well?
 




Keeper0311

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If one of the pistons is sticking on it, I wouldn't trust it, and replace it. Thats just me tho.

Bleeding is a royal PITA and the conventional way takes 2 people. jlsparky has a video on how to do it in his video how to thread in the 2nd gen forum.

HF sells a one man bleeding pump called "Mightyvac", and is around $35 or so.

I'll look for the video, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Eventually I want to replace everything up front. I've got new Hubs and LBJ's that I plan on doing tomorrow when I've got access to my Dad's tool chest and some extra set of hands.

When you install your 70mm TB, are you going to have a "Tune" for it as well?

A tune is a long way off for me. The new TB only really increased acceleration( a tad bit) and throttle response. But it was nice.
 




Joe Dirt

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I'm slow... :D

watch


The Mightyvac pump is the same one I used in my PS pump fiasco thread...
 




Keeper0311

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So based on the video by Jlsparky's video I should be able to do this with just a ratchet and the help of a jack stand? Also do I need to bleed all four corners?
 




Keeper0311

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Bled the brakes out a bit with the fiancee. Still a bit spongy, but better then before. A question, how many times do you need to bleed out the lines before they're good to go? Do you generally have to put fresh DOT 3 in the whole system as you go?
 




Joe Dirt

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From the words of Ford...

IMG_1154.jpg


IMG_1155.jpg
 








Joe Dirt

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Yep... :)
 




gmanpaint

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Sometimes the master cylinder goes bad and you just cant get them bled, keep that in mind if after a few times of bleeding and still no firm pedal.

Also....Make sure there is NO leaks anywhere, and the bleeders are tight.
Check your rubber brake lines going to the calipers. When they get old, they swell, and this will give you the spongy pedal feel.

Always keep adding fresh fluids, never use fluids already introduced to the system, and don't let the reservoir run out while you are performing the bleeding.
 




Keeper0311

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Sometimes the master cylinder goes bad and you just cant get them bled, keep that in mind if after a few times of bleeding and still no firm pedal.

Also....Make sure there is NO leaks anywhere, and the bleeders are tight.
Check your rubber brake lines going to the calipers. When they get old, they swell, and this will give you the spongy pedal feel.

Always keep adding fresh fluids, never use fluids already introduced to the system, and don't let the reservoir run out while you are performing the bleeding.

None of the lines look worn out or broken, and before I started working on the LBJ and such, there were no issues with the Master Cylinder, so I don't think that took a dump. I've got two fresh bottles of brake fluid, so I'll fresh stuff all the way through hopefully. Along with new wheel hubs, shocks, and LBJ's by the end of the day.
 




gmanpaint

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When the master goes out, it will leak fluids internally, and you wont know it. Easy test is to preform an emergency brake stop somewhere. Mash the pedal hard at 40mph and see if the pedal works as it should.

Old lines swell/expand, when the pedal is depressed, and return to normal when released. Takes 2 people to see this. 1 pressing the pedal, the other watching the rubber lines at the caliper.

I'm not saying either of these is the problem, just something to look out for. The fact you have a faulty caliper, leads me to believe that's your problem.
 




Keeper0311

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Finished getting the brakes bled with the help of my Dad (gotta love Engineers). Brakes are better then they were before. Got the new wheel hubs on, swapped front shocks. I'll be posting pictures when I get home.

Thanks for all the help gentlemen!
 




BigRondo

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Finished getting the brakes bled with the help of my Dad (gotta love Engineers). Brakes are better then they were before. Got the new wheel hubs on, swapped front shocks. I'll be posting pictures when I get home.

Thanks for all the help gentlemen!

Standing by for the pics......:salute:...............:popcorn:
 








Keeper0311

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Gonna go out and collect a two five gallon jugs from the surplus store, one for fuel one for water. Also need to pick up a tow strap and finish getting gear ready for Truckhaven.
 


Join the Elite Explorers for $20 per year. Gets rid of the ads! New $5 per month "try out" option.

Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




BigRondo

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Nice! Enjoy Truckhaven.
 




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