Keeper's Explorer. Take two.

Welcome to my new registry. This is my 2000 Explorer XLT. Bought it from the original owner for $3,400. Came with the owners manual, and the paper work to prove it's been dealer maintained. When I purchased the Ex, it had 111,000 on the odometer, a small tear in the leather of the drivers seat, some sand in the back( take it the guy was a surfer, found a few surf board fins in the jack storage area). Gonna do a alignment when I get the chance, and start transferring all my mods from my Sport into this.

As she stands when I brought her home.

How she currently stands.

04/07/11

Current Mods:

Interior:

• Tan Leather, power seats, windows, locks.
• LED Front dome light.
• Alpine HU with Kenwoods all around.
• Garmin Nuvi 1390
• Cobra 19 mounted in the center console with magnet mounted antenna along with a reworked cubby area.
• Autovation racing pedals
• Fire Extinguisher mounted in the rear.
• Reupholstered center console.
• Extra anchor points.
• Hi-lift mounted in the rear cargo area.

Exterior:

• Bullit Mustang Fuel door
• Hankook AT M's (P255/70R16)
• Side steps removed.
• Assortment of super sweet decals and stickers.
• RCI front skid plate.

Lighting:

• Sylvania Silverstars for the headlights.
• x2 Hella 500 driving lights.
• Fog light/ High beam mod.
• LED Puddle lights, license plate lights.

Engine:4.0L SOHC

• Throttle Cable mod.
• Drop in K&N air filter.
• Silencer removed, air box mod.
• Synthetic Oil.
• Ford Racing 70mm TB
• Optima Red-top with Ballistic Fab tray.

Suspension and Brakes

• BTF Uni-ball upper control arms.
• Bilstein 4600's
• Torsion Twist and Warrior-153/AAL.
• Power Slot Rotors w/ Hawk Ceramic pads on all four corners.

Drive Train

• 5 Speed Auto
• 4wd
• 4.10's front and rear, Limited Slip Diff in the rear, with Solid Axle diff cover, and Royal Purple full synthetic gear oil.
• Replaced front hubs.

Projects for the future:

• Quick disconnects for front and rear sway bar.
• Possibly LS up front.

 

[Keeper0311]

Thanks for the reassurance guys.

With shipping and the hated CA sales tax, just got it for $84.

 

[Keeper0311]

Got myself a set of Hella 500's wired up and working. I've got to get them aimed properly, but the mounts they are on are slightly angled, may have to do a little bit of work on the body of the lights. Right now I've got the switch taped to the side of the CB in the dash. Right not I'm thinking that I may get a piece of sheet metal and cut the appropriate holes for my CB and switches.

Also went to Home Depot and picked up a set of four 300lb anchor points and some sheet metal screws for around $7. Gonna pick up another set and set them up on the flap that folds down over the space after the seats fold down.

I've also found out that my school's automotive classes will do repairs on vehicles. Decided that I'm gonna put my ride up to get the UCAs and LBJ's along with an alignment for $80 for the labor. I may look into getting the beefier UCA's that Gman has put on his Explorer.

Ideas, tips, and criticisms always welcome.

 

[Keeper0311]

Been looking through Gman's Blackhole thread in order to get a look at what parts would be a better then OEM replacement.

I've narrowed looked into Raybestos's "service" UCA's. Which can be found here.

And I also noticed that Raybestos's has what they call a "Professional" UCA which can be seenhere.

Now my question to you ol' salts of the EF what is really the difference with these parts? Are these quality parts, worth investing in? Would I be better off looking into another manufacture?

 

[gmanpaint]

Have a look in this thread. It will show the diff in the service grade & the professional parts.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297369&highlight=ifs+upgrades

 

[Keeper0311]

Just got my Solid Diff cover in the mail. The cover looks great, and came with a tube of RTV. However it did not come with the fill plug. Now I've been informed that fill plugs are pretty much universal. Now my question, I've heard of magnetic fill plugs, should I consider getting one, or is a run of the mill plug more then adequate?

I'm planning on doing the fluid swap and all on Wednesday so hope fully some of you experience wheelers will chime in.

Once again thanks far all the help in advance.

 

[Sbyrne97]

Magnetic drain plugs are good
Basic drain plugs are fine too, The diff doesn't have as many moving parts as a engine or transmission does, plus the oil is a lot thicker. Not many little shavings are present. Just wait until you change your diff oil, it moves like syrup and smells horrid.

Changing Diff Oil
Step 1. Buy synthetic diff oil, it lasts a lot longer than conventional make sure you buy the right weight too, mine was a 3.73 LSD and the oil was 75W-140 I Think I also required 4oz friction modifier for the LS
Step 2. Loosen up all the bolts around the diff cover, take all but top ones out, leaves the top ones loose
Step 3. Carefully, pry on the bottom of the cover. This allows the oil to drain out the bottom slowly, have a pan ready to catch the oil
Step 4. Spray cleaner into diff and wipe down everything you can see, this is a good time to inspect your pinion gears, moderate wear is expected
Step 5. Remove old gasket, using a razor blade or scraper, you should get all the old gasket off, then take a wire brush or small sand paper and lightly brush until you see shiny metal on the diff housing. This will allow the silicone something to grab onto as well.
Step 6. Since you have a new cover spray it down with cleaner, even though its nice and new cleaner always helps
Step 7. Clean up all the old bolts, by either wire brush or just wipe them down your choice
Step 8. Make sure all components are around you and ready for reassembly, ie Bolts, Cover, SIlicone
Step 9. Take cover and align it to the housing, this will show you the right orientation
Step 10. Make sure the surfaces are dry and ready for silicone
Step 11. Get your silicone ready to use, start your bead at one end of the cover it should be at least 1/4" width, make sure you go UNDERNEATH each bolt as in a U shape. Try to make it around the cover with out stopping the bead, this makes sure you don't get any gaps. If you do stop, don't start at the end of the bead go over a portion where you stopped.
-Don't wait to long to apply the silicone because it starts to cure as it hits the air, but don't rush either, take your time and do it right
-the reason you go underneath the bolt whole is because the if you go above then the oil might seep around the bolt and will leak through the holes, going underneath allows it to seal the oil within the cover entirely
Step 12. Having a few bolts in one hand, place your cover back on to the housing make sure its faced the right way, then screw a few bolts into the housing to hold the cover on.
Step 13. Finger tighten all the bolts around the diff, then using your ratchet tighten the bolts in a criss cross pattern, this allows for equal pressure around the cover rather than just one end.
Step 14. Once all bolts are tight wait until the silicone is dry, DO NOT ADD OIL right after you put your cover on, this may weaken the silicone. Odds are some silicone should have oozed out the sides, wait until that is dry, then wait 5 more mins.
Step 15. Add oil. If your new cover comes with a fill hole add it there until it pours out, If not pour the diff fluid from behind the differential, you will see the drain plug from the back of the diff. If you have a LS then you need to add 4 oz of friction modifier as well or you will toast your shims.
Step 16. Replace fill plug
Step 17. Take it for a drive. Park and check for leaks
Step 18. Get a beer your done!

Sorry for all the detail, but better to know how to do it right then be sorry in the wrong run

 

[Keeper0311]

Thanks for the tips. Any little bit helps.

Thanks man!

 

[Stic-o]

It's really super simple. But like they said above gear oil smells horrible. And smell doesn't go away, so be careful of what you ware

 

[Keeper0311]

It's really super simple. But like they said above gear oil smells horrible. And smell doesn't go away, so be careful of what you ware

So change diff in the buff. Check.

Thanks for the tips guys.

 

[BigRondo]

So change diff in the buff. Check.

Thanks for the tips guys.

If you're gonna do that then be careful not to get it on your hootus! :

 

[Keeper0311]

If you're gonna do that then be careful not to get it on your hootus! :

Marines always tell inappropriate jokes Carry on.


Getting the stuff together for the rear sway bar disconnects. Having a hell of a time pulling the bolts out of the damn thing. And I picked up clivis pins that are a bit to big. I may just widen them a bit, and go from there.

Also got a billet grille in there, and the beginning planning of my center console/switch area cover.

 

[Keeper0311]

Did a little work on the console. Helps clean it up a bit, looks good with just the one switch and CB.

What I started with.

The console actually comes apart with a couple 8mm screws.

You will then get something like this.

Unfortunately my camera died at this point, and I could no longer get the pictures in. Basically I cut the sheet metal to fit under the frame of the cubby thing, and cut the back side out little cubbies and mounted it all back together.

End result is something like this. As of now I think I'll be leaving it as is.

I also picked up a grill insert from Ebay a while back.

In other news I ordered a complete set of Hawk ceramic brake pads. Should be here next week.

 

[Stic-o]

I like the insert inside with the CB, but I think you should paint it.

 

[lynchy wa]

CB look's great mate

 

[Glen4X4]

Cool that's the cb I had in my 95, Except I went the cheap route and unbolted the cubby hole and cut the back side out and had the cb snug inside the lower part. Your setup looks nice though, now a section for toggle switches

 

[Keeper0311]

Thanks gents. I may be making another one as I learn quite a bit from the initial insert. So there may be a better idea of how things were done.

Cool that's the cb I had in my 95, Except I went the cheap route and unbolted the cubby hole and cut the back side out and had the cb snug inside the lower part. Your setup looks nice though, now a section for toggle switches

If you look a few pages back I had a similar set up.

 

[Glen4X4]

Cool, I don't always have the time to check my subscriptions :thumbdwn:

 

[Keeper0311]

Well I've got the front brakes done. I've got Powerslot rotors and Hawk ceramic pads up front.

I'm not going to cover the Hawk pads as we've all seen those.

Here's when I got the Powerslots in the mail.

The pads are marked with their respective side.

Here you can see the venting on the OEM rotor.

Now compare that to the Powerslots.

Before and after pictures:

Left side:

Right side:

The stopping is dramtically improved with just the front brakes up graded, once I get some extra cash I'll be getting the rotors for the rear, and put on the Hawks.

 

[gmanpaint]

Bling!

 

[lynchy wa]

Bling bling