Completed Project Kirby's 1991 Ranger Build Up

[Kirby N.]

The longer front driveshaft could be really helpful though- it is about at its limit at full droop currently. Rear shaft is super long with no carrier bearing too.

 

[Kirby N.]

Haven’t gotten to work on the doubler yet. Still wondering about the electrical issues I had earlier this year.

So I worked on a toolbox.

I have been running a rubbermaid or craftsman tub behind my seat for years. Need something to hold the tire chains, yankum rope, shackles, snatch block winch remote jumper cables, etc. the floor behind the seat in a super cab isn’t flat. So I have had a craftsman tool kit in front of the bump and the tool bin on top. Well it slides around, it breaks because of the weight and it isn’t really efficient with the space. And if I need a tool out of the kit, I have to unload the 200 lbs bin.

So I decided to fix that. This is a project I have been thinking about for at least 5 years.

I have been running no jump seat on the drivers side for years. It just seems I will never need it.

I Started by building a platform with legs from 3/4 square tube 1/8 wall. This will allow me to access the craftsman tool set without unloading the bin above it.

It attaches to the seat belt bolts in the front for the middle front seat and the drivers seat. In the rear I recessed it and used one of the bolts for the jump seat. 3 good attachment points should be enough.

Next I built front and middle sides. I have to make sure they follow the trim closely so I don’t have problems with them sealing to the cab walls.

They are all clamped in place. Next I tacked the whole thing together. The I made sure the seat fit nicely- it does. Takes away my recline, but I haven’t used it in years with the tub behind. If I am on a trip and need to sleep I move to the passenger seat.

I got the top cut but I am trying to figure out doors and latches and hinges so I didn’t tack the top on.

 

[Paul]

That is an awesome project - - been thinking of a similar plan for my Ranger, but carpeted wood instead of steel (can't weld...).

Any concerns with you, tools, and fuel all on the driver side? Guessing no as you've been running this set-up for a while.

Great work.

Paul

 

[Turdle]

That's nice.
Make a lid, throw a subwoofer in the lid. Stick small sockets and bits to the magnet ring.

 

[Kirby N.]

That is an awesome project - - been thinking of a similar plan for my Ranger, but carpeted wood instead of steel (can't weld...).

Any concerns with you, tools, and fuel all on the driver side? Guessing no as you've been running this set-up for a while.

Great work.

Paul

You calling me fat?

Yeah, my dad said the same. It’s pretty heavy with all my stuff and now a toolbox out of 1/8”.

Probably should have done the other side but I like the fold and tumble on the passenger side and I am trying to preserve one jump seat to use if I need it.

I built a wooden box for my exploder and it really takes up so much more space. The material is so thick with plywood. So I think this will be more durable and a better use of the limited space.

 

[Paul]

You calling me fat?

Nope . . .

Same thing with my Sport - - me, fuel tank and bumper-mounted spare tire all on the driver side of the vehicle - - so always try to load the heavier gear on the passenger side, especially in the cargo area. . .

Again, great work.

P.S. Cool grab handle, didn't know the older Rangers had this.

Paul

 

[Josh P]

You calling me fat?

There's a conversation starter.

 

[Kirby N.]

P.S. Cool grab handle, didn't know the older Rangers had this.
View attachment 456936

Paul

That is actually the handle for a cargo cover thing behind the seats. My sport had something similar for the cargo area in The back. It unrolls a vinyl material and conceals the area behind the front seats.

 

[Kirby N.]

I made some more progress on the toolbox today. Started cutting doors in it.

It’s going to have a couple partitioned out compartments that will hold smaller stuff like my winch controller, air line and various recovering things- d rings and chain links, maybe even a tree strap and snatch block.. I also got some hinges and latches from McMaster-Carr.

 

[Kirby N.]

Well, I am pretty frustrated with the ranger and I am not really sure what to do next- so I thought maybe some of you would have an idea.

It has started starting really hard recently and progressively gotten worse. Its not consistent, but often it will crank for like 30 seconds and only start when I add some throttle input. Initially I thought maybe it had something to do with the ambient temp or starting with the AC but that doesn't seem to change anything and it has gotten colder here and the problem persists and seems to be getting progressively.

I got an obd1 scanner but i can't get it to read key on engine running. I got no codes key off engine off. I have no check engine light.

I read a thread about an evap purge valve affecting idle so i got a motorcraft one and replaced it. I reset the computer. It did nothing.

I got a smoke machine. I found a little leak on one of the hose clamps on the intake. Tightened it and nothing seemed to change. no other intake leaks. I reset the computer.

I borrowed a Ignition Control Module from a friend and swapped to that and reset the computer. I thought it changed initially, but after a few cycles it didn't seem to do anything.

The idle is still pretty erratic. I tried the process that @donalds recommends in post #775 again. Trying to set the idle to about 750 RPM- unplugging the iac. After I got done, I plugged back in the IAC and after a few minutes the idle climbed up to 1200 or so rpm and would not go back down. So I swapped out the recently new Motorcraft IAC with a junk yard IAC. The idle calmed back down. It seems to be idling ok. It seems to be idling better when I cycle the ac. So I will run it for a while.

It still starts hard sometimes.

I didn't reset the computer after the new Iac, So I am doing that currently.

So I am kind of out of ideas. I replaced every sensor I could think to replace with expensive quality OEM parts in the last year or so. Some of those I have tested against junk yard units to see if they we new and broke.

When it is running it seems to run fine. The idle has been erratic for a long time- so it is hard to tell if it is running normal or if it is still erratic. It idling better than it was.

Here are the ideas I have left:

1. Swap the ECU to a junkyard unit and see if it fixes it. Maybe buy a rebuild if it does. I read some threads of guys doing this and it fixing it.
2. The wiring on the fuel pump- that has caused me a lot of problems. There is a new one on eBay. I am considering buying it and replacing it for peace of mind. I tried wiggling it to see if that affects the starting and it doesn't seem to. But remembering the last time I had the no start issue, it seems the wiring had an effect.
3. Fuel pump. All the fuel pumps. I have been through a lot of those on this thing. It doesn't seem to change a thing when I cycle the key. but it does seem to start terrible mostly when it has sat for a while. That would indicate that maybe pressure is bleeding off. Perhaps I'll borrow a fuel pressure tester. The last one I borrow was well used and didn't work well. i still have a spare I think.

Any ideas? if it starts much harder I am going to smoke the starter I have or have to get another battery at least to keep driving it.

 

[410Fortune]

You need to know what the fuel Pressure is

Long crank usually weak fuel pressure behind the injectors
Does cycling the key a couple of time before you crank help?

I have seen a few pcm failures as these
Computers get older more and more of them need replaced. What is your calibration code? I may have a pcm

Do you have a cam synchro on the ranger?

When it occurs you can do a couple
Of things. First check for spark.. is there spark during the long crank? (This helps determine if it is a pcm/ cam or crank sensor issue)
The 50/50 test does it fire right off with some ether? (If yes then it’s likely fuel issue)

Fuel pressure gauge! Must have a good one in the toolbox if you own pushrod fords

 

[Kirby N.]

Thanks Jaime. I will check the fuel pressure.

It does not have a cam sync. At one point after the engine install the crank sensor was loose. I replaced it with a motorcraft one and it is not loose now.

I can try the spark and ether test.

It does not help to cycle the key. No different. It usually won’t start for a very long time if I don’t open the throttle. That seems to be the only thing that causes it to start- if I open the throttle to about 75% then She starts. Also when I first crank it, it sounds like it wants to start right off, then it goes into this super long crank and not starting.

How do I tell the code on the ecu? Is it the sticker on it? I might hit up some of the Denver pick and pulls today and see if I can find one (your old stomping grounds
Haha).

 

[410Fortune]

There is a 4 digit code on the sticker like COW1 or just post a pic of the sticker

I’ve had compatibility issues before something about a 92 pcm running a 94 engine where I had to drill a small hole in the throttle body butterfly to get it to idle. The mustang dudes have a little plate you
Bolt between intake and iac that allows you to introduce some air to fine tune your idle

With the butterfly closed the only way the engine gets air is through the iac valve so if it is having issues you will get strange problems
But again long crank is almost always fuel related

 

[Kirby N.]

Fuel pressure numbers-

Key on engine off (cycle a few times because I bled off pressure getting it going)
- 38psi

Key on engine running - 31psi

After sitting for 10 minutes- just below 38.

After sitting for an hour- 30 psi
2 hours- 23psi

When I key on again to start it, it jumps back to 38 psi. While cranking then to 32 when it starts. With the fpr vacuum unplugged it goes to 39, plug back in to 31.

Here is a picture of my computer sticker thing:

 

[410Fortune]

Good job! Good fuel pressure numbers. 31 is a little low, I like to see 34-36 but your issue is at startup not power while running

Next time you have long crank see if you can do a simple spark test at a plug wire…

I will lookup that calibration code A1S

 

[Kirby N.]

I was thinking everything was in spec for pressure too. I wasn’t too surprised either because it didn’t change the hard start when I cycled the key.

I also have wiggled the wiring and it doesn’t seem to help- and it would be indicated with this test because that would change the pressure, and it is starting hard even with this pressure.

I kind of think it’s the ecu- but I don’t want to get my hopes because it may not be.

 

[410Fortune]

Check this out

“Startup Failures: Engine startup problems often indicate a faulty 1991 Ford Ranger ECM“

1991 Ford Ranger PCM | ECM | ECU | 2.3L | VIN Programmed & Updated

Engine Computer fitting all 1991 Ford Ranger 2.3L models. Compatibility will vary for these units, please review the list below.

www.fs1inc.com

I found it interesting they specifically called out sporadic starting issues

I will look through my pcms and see if I have one that is compatible … I have a 92 sport 5 speed outside for parts , that pcm should at least be good for testing your rig

 

[donalds]

I'd crack open the ecm and look for bad Components or anything a miss

 

[Kirby N.]

Thank you- no stress. I am going to see if I can find one this weekend at some local yards.

 

[Kirby N.]

I found one today, but it was a 1994 and I confirmed that it did have a camshaft position sensor- so I didn’t grab it because I decided it wasn’t compatible