Line out converter problems with stock HU | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Line out converter problems with stock HU

AZRat

New Member
Joined
July 16, 2012
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City, State
Phoenix AZ
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Ford Explorer EB
Hey all,
I'm a broke high schooler with my mom's old Explorer, and this car hasn't done me wrong (I actually love it), except for blowing sub and frying the amp.

I've been trying to wire these godforsaken aftermarket amp and sub up to the factory head unit in my '01 Eddie Bauer for (legitimately) a year now, and I've got everything in, I have power to my amp, I've got the sub in, but the signal for the sub, well...
I've got a PAC SNI-35 line out converter, and I'm using the speaker leads already in place for the stock amplifier (premium sound), but since it's a 2 channel, I only wired in 1 channel (right), and the left channel is not hooked up. I was so ready to hook the battery back up and turn the key and have some bass, but I got nothing, save for a soft static buzz from the sub, all the other speakers work dandy.

Advice would be enormously appreciated, and then some. I won't be able to check back here for a bit, but I will respond ASAP if you have questions for me.

Cheers guys
 



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You'll need to hookup the line output directly to the speaker out. Easiest to tap in at a door speaker.
If your ex came with the factory sub, you can actually tap into the factory sub wires and use that signal for the aftermarket sub.
You shouldn't need 2 channels.
 






I tapped for signal just after the OEM amp located behind the passenger side cargo area panel.

I originally tapped before the OEM amp, but there was not enough signal.

I would hook up both sides of the PAC converter, regardless. I know there are some songs where there is not bass present in both channels. I keep thinking of maybe a song(s) by the Police, and Moving in Stereo by The Cars. Not sure if those are good examples. I used to have a single channel hookup for a sub in a past setup, but it's been a long time, so I can't think of much offhand where you can tell the bass should be pounding, but it's not...
 






My Recommendation would be to tap into the rear door or rear speaker wiring and then wire that back to the PAC , I have installed many and the easiest way and less things to remove is always better in the long run , replacing that head unit down the road will be a wise investment , they send a very choppy/Dirty signal to the original speakers and tend to blow them from distortion and sending a clipped signal to the speakers and sub , its not that the stock radio is putting out too much power , its just dirty power .
 






I've tried just putting both channels into the OEM amp wires before the amp and it didn't work, so hopefully when I get some more time I'll try and just tap the door speakers. The amp was fried btw, so I can't tap into the after-amp signal.
 






I've tried just putting both channels into the OEM amp wires before the amp and it didn't work, so hopefully when I get some more time I'll try and just tap the door speakers. The amp was fried btw, so I can't tap into the after-amp signal.

Ouch , well sounds like the only way it will work is with the rear door/speaker wiring , That PAC is a Good Product , they make Good Remote Level Controllers that plug into the RCA wires That allows you to adjust your pre out voltage from head unit to amp , kind of like a bass knob or remote level contorller on a amp , but its more acurate and Cuts off All Signal not just certain Frequency's or bass boost .
 






I would suggest a better aftermarket head unit that has rca outs for your amp. a much cleaner signal
 






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