Loose gear shifter... and what is this bolt? | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Loose gear shifter... and what is this bolt?

That sounds like an issue with just the shift linkage or the column shifting mechanism. Given the park position isn't achieving park fully(the switch inside would allow starting if it was accurately in park), the shift lever at the trans is not quite perfectly located.

That can be from the linkage itself, the cable and the ends, or the column shift parts. The column stuff is more likely though because of the constant mechanical movement, and you just worked with those parts.

I suggest inspecting everything you can of all of those parts. If it all seems okay, then readjust the shift lever by way of the DTRS, the device there on the case. There is a nut there that holds it all in place, don't loosen that until you know the adjustment procedure and are ready to do that. Any 4R70W or AODE manual should have that procedure in it and be easy to find online etc. It's simply identifying the two markings, one on the DTRS and one on the case, loosening the nut, moving the shift lever to the required position, and tightening the nut, done. That will correct the issue of not starting when set to park. But the linkage like the column parts may still be off or loose(wear), something not yet found.
That helps! I have the 4.0 SOHC, does that mean the 4R70W tranny goes with that? There is a U Joint in the steering column that looks misaligned. A little sideways. Can't do a pic as it's raining here (unbelievably wet summer so far!)
 



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Yes all of that would be the same, your 5R55E transmission will have the same item on the side which the shift lever connects to etc. The steering column is hard to work on or get a good look at. I need to get into mine to replace a broken plastic part that engages the ignition switch, I've been putting that off.

What you should be looking at are the shift cable ends(the connections) to make sure they are secure and nothing is loose there. The components inside the column which the shift cable connects to are the ones that are more likely to wear out. Hopefully those are what you just finished replacing, and you got them all.
 






Yes all of that would be the same, your 5R55E transmission will have the same item on the side which the shift lever connects to etc. The steering column is hard to work on or get a good look at. I need to get into mine to replace a broken plastic part that engages the ignition switch, I've been putting that off.

What you should be looking at are the shift cable ends(the connections) to make sure they are secure and nothing is loose there. The components inside the column which the shift cable connects to are the ones that are more likely to wear out. Hopefully those are what you just finished replacing, and you got them all.
Appreciated the reply and advice! I'm guessing the plastic part that engages the ignition switch isn't my problem.
Yes all of that would be the same, your 5R55E transmission will have the same item on the side which the shift lever connects to etc. The steering column is hard to work on or get a good look at. I need to get into mine to replace a broken plastic part that engages the ignition switch, I've been putting that off.

What you should be looking at are the shift cable ends(the connections) to make sure they are secure and nothing is loose there. The components inside the column which the shift cable connects to are the ones that are more likely to wear out. Hopefully those are what you just finished replacing, and you got them all.
I only replaced the shift tube bushings. Meanwhile in my frustration, came across this, no rust? What do you think of the price?
 






The column shifter, how much play does it have as you move it around? Those bushings are important and usually when they wear some they will work their way out from the hold down brackets.

The shift tube, the two parts, are hard to predict, some people who are really easy at shifting the column lever, they don't wear them out. If you think it's all intact, in place as it should be, then drive it and reevaluate how much play there is. If the park issue is still there making starting hard, then do adjust the linkage at the trans. With a look at an example of how it's done, say with YouTube, anyone can fairly easily handle the short process. If it still feels too loose, then it may have to have the two new shift tube parts.
 






I can understand you and your frustration with the parts and so on. Hunting for parts which were discontinued is normal for an old car. The matter is if you are willing to do that to keep your Explorer on the road.
This shiny one for $9,495
could be same, warn out parts etc., you did not kwow if timing chains and transmission is ok.
Price is too high for my assessment, if i may say so.
 






The column shifter, how much play does it have as you move it around? Those bushings are important and usually when they wear some they will work their way out from the hold down brackets.

The shift tube, the two parts, are hard to predict, some people who are really easy at shifting the column lever, they don't wear them out. If you think it's all intact, in place as it should be, then drive it and reevaluate how much play there is. If the park issue is still there making starting hard, then do adjust the linkage at the trans. With a look at an example of how it's done, say with YouTube, anyone can fairly easily handle the short process. If it still feels too loose, then it may have to have the two new shift tube parts.
Everything is super tight and binding up.
 






Everything is super tight and binding up.

I'd want a closer look at the shifting parts, beginning with the adjustment. If you'll find the how to for that, and then loosen the bolt knowing it will be reset properly, I wonder how they feel when apart. I'd bet the transmission internal manual valve is fine, and will engage the positions properly when the adjustment is correct. I think the binding will be in the column, the shifting parts, the shift tube and internal shaft to that.

I have three 2nd gen's that will need those two parts(and the bushings) in the future. These are all high mileage and I delivered mail with them, so the linkage is notably loose. I think I have two sets of the shift tube etc, one I'm sure where they are(with bags and part numbers). I have posted those part numbers several times, in this thread too I'm sure. Anyone with a high mileage 2nd gen should check their shifting for looseness, and replace those parts when they feel very loose.
 






I'd want a closer look at the shifting parts, beginning with the adjustment. If you'll find the how to for that, and then loosen the bolt knowing it will be reset properly, I wonder how they feel when apart. I'd bet the transmission internal manual valve is fine, and will engage the positions properly when the adjustment is correct. I think the binding will be in the column, the shifting parts, the shift tube and internal shaft to that.

I have three 2nd gen's that will need those two parts(and the bushings) in the future. These are all high mileage and I delivered mail with them, so the linkage is notably loose. I think I have two sets of the shift tube etc, one I'm sure where they are(with bags and part numbers). I have posted those part numbers several times, in this thread too I'm sure. Anyone with a high mileage 2nd gen should check their shifting for looseness, and replace those parts when they feel very loose.
Since I do have a new shift tube might as well put it in also. Haven't found the adjustment you're referencing yet. Thanks for all the help!
 






Appreciated the reply and advice! I'm guessing the plastic part that engages the ignition switch isn't my problem.

I only replaced the shift tube bushings. Meanwhile in my frustration, came across this, no rust? What do you think of the price?

nice truck, but to much price. low mileage is nice, but oftentimes that means its sat, etc, and that comes with its own host of problems. id keep your current one imo.
 






nice truck, but to much price. low mileage is nice, but oftentimes that means its sat, etc, and that comes with its own host of problems. id keep your current one imo.
THanks for the input. No idea how the engine and trans are in that one either. Just getting frustrated, which happens if I haven't done a repair before and it's a tricky one. Love this forum!
 






Since I do have a new shift tube might as well put it in also. Haven't found the adjustment you're referencing yet. Thanks for all the help!
I did find the adjuster on the steering column however.
 






THanks for the input. No idea how the engine and trans are in that one either. Just getting frustrated, which happens if I haven't done a repair before and it's a tricky one. Love this forum!
Haha yep. I probably have this one coming up, since the bushing is original at 330k
 






I'd want a closer look at the shifting parts, beginning with the adjustment. If you'll find the how to for that, and then loosen the bolt knowing it will be reset properly, I wonder how they feel when apart. I'd bet the transmission internal manual valve is fine, and will engage the positions properly when the adjustment is correct. I think the binding will be in the column, the shifting parts, the shift tube and internal shaft to that.

I have three 2nd gen's that will need those two parts(and the bushings) in the future. These are all high mileage and I delivered mail with them, so the linkage is notably loose. I think I have two sets of the shift tube etc, one I'm sure where they are(with bags and part numbers). I have posted those part numbers several times, in this thread too I'm sure. Anyone with a high mileage 2nd gen should check their shifting for looseness, and replace those parts when they feel very loose.
And I just found this to locate the switch on the transmission! Already aligned the little pointer. While it will actually go into Park, a tremendous amount of force is needed to shift it there from Drive. Hope to put the new shift tube in tomorrow sometime. Thanks again! One odd thing, may be unrelated, but when I shift into different gears, the OD Off light always comes on. I push it off. Never comes back on while driving, only when I use the shift lever. Is this anything?
 






I'd want a closer look at the shifting parts, beginning with the adjustment. If you'll find the how to for that, and then loosen the bolt knowing it will be reset properly, I wonder how they feel when apart. I'd bet the transmission internal manual valve is fine, and will engage the positions properly when the adjustment is correct. I think the binding will be in the column, the shifting parts, the shift tube and internal shaft to that.

I have three 2nd gen's that will need those two parts(and the bushings) in the future. These are all high mileage and I delivered mail with them, so the linkage is notably loose. I think I have two sets of the shift tube etc, one I'm sure where they are(with bags and part numbers). I have posted those part numbers several times, in this thread too I'm sure. Anyone with a high mileage 2nd gen should check their shifting for looseness, and replace those parts when they feel very loose.
Update: My Ex shifts fine now. A handyman who is also a mechanic was recommended to me as I was getting a cab ride. He looked under the truck where the shift cable ends up. Which was fine. BUT it turns out, the Neutral Safety Switch, which has a plastic bushing in a plastic housing, was completely bound up and needed replacing. That bushing kept stuff from turning that needed to turn! Got one from O'Reilly's for $46 he put it in, and even put the interior parts back together. This fellow is a GEM and he even changed my oil, which I'd bought already but put off changing while my Ex had such trouble shifting! So the real problem I wouldn't have guessed in a year of Sundays, he went right to. When he rode up in a F350 I figured he'd dealt with the shifter problem (a few times!) and he checked out what I had done and he said it was OK. A real blessing!
 












Awesome!!

Your new best friend
Yeah, I told him that! Very very reasonable price too. Said I could recommend him to my sister who has 2 vehicles needing work!
 






Excellent, I'm happy to hear that.
 






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