Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures)

[gavin]

I have a 2000. How do you get the passenger side UCA back on the spindle? I've beat the crap out of the top of the UCA trying to get in into the spindle.

I've even tried putting the floor jack under the LCA and jacking it up and well as greasing the UCA ball joint. I can get it to work. Any help or advice?

Thanks.

I usually had a floor jack under the LCA, and used a rubber mallet to smack the UCA down while pressing on the bolt 'til it slid through.

Thanks alot for the right up MountaineerGreen! My dad just came down with the ex from Montana for a visit. The inside of the tires have been wearing so we took it in for an alignment and the guy showed us the drivers side bj was shot. I picked up the bj from autozone for $40 and the press. Someone had screwed with the press though and the threading so we had to go back and get a different one halfway through the job. I had $20 on my rewards card so all said and done did it for $20. We only had trouble getting the knuckle off the UCA, i pried down while my dad used a mini sledge and it finally broke free. Also when I put the tie rod back on the castle nut just spun with the tie rod threading, not sure why but I just had to hold the threading while my dad tightened the castle nut with an open end wrench? Now that I know what im doing im sure I can do the passenger side in less than an hour. Thanks again man, saved us a lot of time and money.

you shouldn't need to remove the TRE for this job. I never had to.
Good luck removing the castlenut if/when the TRE needs replaced. If the thread of the TRE is spinning, then it sounds like the TRE is almost shot.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I use an impact, twist the tie rod to bind the end, then back the nut off. You don't need to take the TRE off, but it makes it easier for me

 

[xFatcatx]

you shouldn't need to remove the TRE for this job. I never had to.
Good luck removing the castlenut if/when the TRE needs replaced. If the thread of the TRE is spinning, then it sounds like the TRE is almost shot.

hmm...how do you remove the knuckle without taking the tie rod off and tieing it up out of the way? it wasnt really a big deal, just seemed odd. i dont think its going to be a big deal to get the castle nut off when i go to replace the tie rod.....everything needs replacing down there, 90k on it and the drivers side lbj is the only thing i have done now. my dad will be heading out again soon and next time we have more time and money we will do everything down there on both sides.

 

[gavin]

hmm...how do you remove the knuckle without taking the tie rod off and tieing it up out of the way? it wasnt really a big deal, just seemed odd. i dont think its going to be a big deal to get the castle nut off when i go to replace the tie rod.....everything needs replacing down there, 90k on it and the drivers side lbj is the only thing i have done now. my dad will be heading out again soon and next time we have more time and money we will do everything down there on both sides.

I never completely removed the knuckle.
after removing it from the LCA, I would reconnect the UCA to hold it up out of the way. Never messed with the TRE's until I replaced 'em last summer.

 

[markogman]

you are the man,took 2hrs for the first 1 1/2 for the other.thanks!

 

[Rusty]

Evan... great advice here..

Explorer failed inspection last week and i had to do both lbj's .. got the parts. (no press) and had both done and back on the road in 3 hours! I just used my 3lb sledge to pound them out

Now i have a question.. are you guys all replacing your ball joints like almost each year? I decided to get the lifetime warranty ones this year because i have had to replace either a upper or lower ball joint EVERY year for inspection!

 

[gavin]

Evan... great advice here..

Explorer failed inspection last week and i had to do both lbj's .. got the parts. (no press) and had both done and back on the road in 3 hours! I just used my 3lb sledge to pound them out

Now i have a question.. are you guys all replacing your ball joints like almost each year? I decided to get the lifetime warranty ones this year because i have had to replace either a upper or lower ball joint EVERY year for inspection!

be careful when using a sledge.
before long you may need to replace the lower control arms. If the balljoint gets crooked just enough when you're pounding it in or out, it can stretch out the hole enough the next balljoint may fit too loosely.

 

[Rusty]

hmmm.. good advice! thanks.. i did take out some aggression on that thing!
ill keep it in check next time!

 

[gavin]

I made the same mistake.

ended up globbing jb weld on the top of it, after getting the circlip on.

it held up fine for a year or so! luckily...

although I ended up replacing both LCA's last summer.

 

[alohamonte]

It's not an every year thing. Original owner replaced LBJ at 40k.

I bought the truck at 128k and immediately knew the LBJ were shot (torn boots).

Replaced Upper/Lowers with no-name part. It's been just a year (about 10k) since the replacement and they're starting to make noise. Boots are intact, so I know the grease is in there, but I suspect I'll need to change them again sometime in the next 10k.

 

[storlied]

Is it at all possible to do this job without having to remove the axle nut and all of that? After the top control arm is popped out... couldn't the whole spindle just be pushed aside (after the lower is broken loose) to service that area?..

 

[gavin]

Is it at all possible to do this job without having to remove the axle nut and all of that? After the top control arm is popped out... couldn't the whole spindle just be pushed aside (after the lower is broken loose) to service that area?..

not on a 4WD.
the CV housing on the halfshaft will prevent you from pulling the knuckle down far enough to get it off the balljoint stud.

trust me... the first time I did the job, I spent HOURS attempting to remove the knuckle without removing the half shaft. And I still lost that fight. Had to remove the halfshaft.

 

[JonnyRock]

MountaineerGreen -

Just wanted to say thanks! This walkthrough was great, and just last month I swapped out all 4 ball joints for new Moog pieces.

It didn't kill my vibration/shuddering that occurs when turning the steering wheel. I believe I've eliminated the steering pump. Rotated the tires, had the alignment done, but still no luck!

Anyway, thanks for the great write-up!

 

[Nick26]

It didn't kill my vibration/shuddering that occurs when turning the steering wheel. I believe I've eliminated the steering pump. Rotated the tires, had the alignment done, but still no luck!

it's a good chance the bearings in your hub are shot.

 

[JonnyRock]

it's a good chance the bearings in your hub are shot.

Can I buy a new replacement bearing like I see on RockAuto for under $50? Or do I have to get a full hub replacement like I see on Summit for $200?

 

[techieman33]

Can I buy a new replacement bearing like I see on RockAuto for under $50? Or do I have to get a full hub replacement like I see on Summit for $200?

The $50 bearing is probably for 2wd, if your 4wd, or awd you'll need the entire hub assembly.

 

[CDW6212R]

If someone discovers a place that rebuilds the hubs, please let us know. I need some built with longer studs to start with.

 

[Nick26]

If someone discovers a place that rebuilds the hubs, please let us know. I need some built with longer studs to start with.

just buy longer new studs and hammer and rachet them in, it's not to hard

 

[Nick26]

Can I buy a new replacement bearing like I see on RockAuto for under $50? Or do I have to get a full hub replacement like I see on Summit for $200?

if your truck has 4wd or AWD you definitely need the full hub. Advance Auto Parts by me has them for $106 a piece.

 

[JonnyRock]

it's a good chance the bearings in your hub are shot.

Can I have a shop check them?