Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures)

[storlied]

I may be an idiot but uh... you didn't mention the size socket needed for the lower ball joint nut thing?.... lol...

 

[carlover]

Hmmmmm i just re-read this whole thread to see if im doing something wrong. I keep having issues with the ball joint eventually sliding up and down in the bore. Even with brand new control arms this happened on 3 different occasion with 3 different sets of arms. Each time the ball joint has had to be welded into place.

 

[mounty71]

Hmmmmm i just re-read this whole thread to see if im doing something wrong. I keep having issues with the ball joint eventually sliding up and down in the bore. Even with brand new control arms this happened on 3 different occasion with 3 different sets of arms. Each time the ball joint has had to be welded into place.

Uh oh.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I may be an idiot but uh... you didn't mention the size socket needed for the lower ball joint nut thing?.... lol...

The socket size varies by manufacturer, but the ones I have dealt with were 21mm.

Hmmmmm i just re-read this whole thread to see if im doing something wrong. I keep having issues with the ball joint eventually sliding up and down in the bore. Even with brand new control arms this happened on 3 different occasion with 3 different sets of arms. Each time the ball joint has had to be welded into place.

I've never had that issue- maybe you are beating on your LCA's and ball joints too much

 

[carlover]

The socket size varies by manufacturer, but the ones I have dealt with were 21mm.



I've never had that issue- maybe you are beating on your LCA's and ball joints too much

yeah ive been doing alot of desert stuff lately. ive beaten this poor thing 100X more than ford ever designed it for LOL. the lower ball joint/control arm wasnt designed for this obviously. ill just keep welding them in for safety.

 

[sport'96]

should i do both sides, or do i only have to do the side that needs it?

 

[storlied]

Most cost effective, just the one side that needs it.. but if you have the money to throw around.. it wouldn't hurt to do all of them if they're all the originals.

 

[sport'96]

ok, thanks i will look into it some more.

 

[gmanpaint]

I just wanted to say thanks for the tips! The jack stand for support and knocking it out with a hammer works very well. The hydro jack method of getting it in worked beautiful! The C-clamp method was cumbersome and painstaking! Once we got it going, it was no problem at all! Saved me $300 by doing it at home! ( actually a friends house)

 

[gavin]

He put a crowbar under the tire and lifted the tire about a 1/2".

He did not wiggle from top or bottom of the tire, is what he showed me correct? Should I trust that he just did that up/down visual to make it a selling point for a replacement? Is a 1/2" a lot of play?

yes, that is a very easy way to tell if a balljoint is good or not. There should be NO up/down play in the balljoint itself. This means the balljoint shaft is moving within the mount, basically, which is bad (it's worn).

That mechanic's method is, honestly, my preferred method for checking balljoints.

 

[mgreen6712]

I have a bad squeak comming from the front end of my 2000 ford explorer. It is comming from both sides. I think my ball joints are bad. I seen where I can either replace the ball joints themselves or the control arms. Which would be easier? I have been told you cannot replace the ball joints in the upper control arm. For some reason I do not have any grease zerks in mine. Another genius idea from Ford. The upper control arm doesn't look to hard. I seen some pics and an outline of how to do it. The lower control arm is different. I have been told I can replace the lower ball joints in the lower control arm, but is it easier and better (in the long run) to just replace the entire control arm for both upper and lower? If I can rebuild them with new parts would it be easier? The control arms don't look to bad. I'm looking for the beast way but the easiest way also. Any help I would appreciate it. Thankx.

 

[storlied]

yes, that is a very easy way to tell if a balljoint is good or not. There should be NO up/down play in the balljoint itself. This means the balljoint shaft is moving within the mount, basically, which is bad (it's worn).

That mechanic's method is, honestly, my preferred method for checking balljoints.

What about the top ball joints?

And thanks for that info. I've been wondering.

I guess both of mine need to be replace.

 

[mgreen6712]

Upper Ball Joints.

I have been told that the upper ball joints cannot be replaced. Why I do not know. I do know that my upper and lower ball joints are "permantly" sealed, therefore they have no grease fittings. Maybe thats why. I am looking at just replacing the upper control arm on both sides of my explorer and go from there. It looks alot easier.

 

[96eb96]

yes, that is a very easy way to tell if a balljoint is good or not. There should be NO up/down play in the balljoint itself. This means the balljoint shaft is moving within the mount, basically, which is bad (it's worn).

That mechanic's method is, honestly, my preferred method for checking balljoints.

The ford service manual says to support the lower control arm and shake the wheel at the 12 and 3 oclcok position. If you see even a 1/32 inch movement on either joint, then the joint is bad. The up/down test is not for explorers, I asked a few dealers about that.

 

[gavin]

The ford service manual says to support the lower control arm and shake the wheel at the 12 and 3 oclcok position. If you see even a 1/32 inch movement on either joint, then the joint is bad. The up/down test is not for explorers, I asked a few dealers about that.

the up/down method works great for me. If there's up/down movement, it's bad. Plain and simple. Regardless what a dealer says. The method does work.

At one point my lower balljoints had up/down movement, which I found using that method.


as for upper balljoints... generally the same thing. Shouldn't be any up/down movement in the upper balljoint shaft. Never tried too hard too determine the best method used.


and yes, the OEM upper control arms do not have replaceable balljoints. The control arm and balljoint is a single unit.
Get the Moog replacement upper control arms, which do have replaceable balljoints.

As for replacing lower control arm or balljoint; well, balljoint is definately cheaper. While you're at it, check for any play in the control arm bushings. If the bushings are bad, might as well replace the whole control arm.

And replacing the whole lower control arm is not difficult at all. I think I replaced mine in about 30-45 min.

 

[mgreen6712]

Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Thanks Gavin for the reply. It looks like i might just replace the control arms for both upper and lower on both sides. My Explorer has a lot of miles and it's probably not a bad idea to just replace them. I seen a pic on how to change the upper, do you know of any that show how to change the lower? It definantly makes it easier. Thanx

 

[gavin]

no I don't. But it is simple.

Just make sure to mark the placement of the torsion bar to the control arm, and then match the mark on the LCA with the new LCA.

I did not have to remove my torsion bars to replace my LCAs.

 

[mgreen6712]

MountaineerGreen Excelent write up. Thanks for all the info with pics you have posted. If I replace the left side lower ball joints is the process the same as the left side. I assume it is. Also I'm looking to replace gthe upper control arm on the right side. I heard there are two different styles. One is a single peice and the other is a two peice. I don' go off roading much and most of my driving is highway miles. I'm thinking the one peice would be easier to install and good fit for me. What would you suggest? Thanks.

 

[gavin]

yes, the process for LBJs is the same on both sides.

as for UCA... I've heard some people have had issues getting a proper alignment with the one-piece. I personally used the 2-piece (my replacement was only the outer piece).

as for which would be easier... well, the 2-piece is quite simple.

 

[96eb96]

no I don't. But it is simple.

Just make sure to mark the placement of the torsion bar to the control arm, and then match the mark on the LCA with the new LCA.

I did not have to remove my torsion bars to replace my LCAs.

did you have any issues with rust holding the torsion bar to the LCA? I hear they don't salt in Alaska, they use sand. A mechanic up in our tundra told me the bars sometimes corrosion weld to the LCA and its sometimes easier to get a bar from the J/Y.