Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures)

[CDW6212R]

No, the 4WD hubs are permanently sealed. I have had studs replaced, and tried to have them take a hub apart to see if it could be serviced.

 

[storlied]

Can I just do the ujoint treatment to change these balljoints?
What I mean is, take a large socket that'll fit through the hole and pound the joint out... and almost the same for getting the new one in?

 

[CDW6212R]

The ball joint press is a great tool, and free after renting it and returning it. It isn't required, but it is very very helpful.

 

[JonnyRock]

Can I just do the ujoint treatment to change these balljoints?
What I mean is, take a large socket that'll fit through the hole and pound the joint out... and almost the same for getting the new one in?

I'd recommend renting the tool if possible. You can just hammer away at the joint, but the press is very helpful.

 

[storlied]

Unless I understood Evan's guide, the press is only useful for getting the old joint out.. it appears he had to do something with a jack to get the new one in? I would have thought a socket would be just as good. I was just asking because I wanna get this done ASAP, and I don't get paid for 2 weeks... and even then.. insurrance n a couple other bills just kill me.. I've got most of my parts though. (I'm doing an overhaul on a couple things)

 

[Rusty]

I'd say socket and a 3lb hammer (carefully! try not to hit the arms very much) to get it out...then the socket on top of a jack to get it in..if you read EVAN's write up he said he didn't use the tool to get it back in because it wouldn't fit very well.

Just be careful not to overly and excessively hit the arm and you will be fine!

 

[storlied]

I learned my lesson with being too hard on parts up there when I smashed up my knuckle.. that had to be replace anyways.. but the further damage I caused it wasn't nessisary.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

The problem with ball joint press is the rings are too short and the bolt bottoms out before it press the ball joint in. You can buy longer rings but you can't rent them that I've ever seen.

That's one thing I hate about loaner tools. They do not work on every car.

When I rebuilt my front suspension two years ago I also ot the inner tie rod tool. it was to small to fit over the tie rod so I took my die grinder to it to make it work

 

[CDW6212R]

I bought a press tool set, and it worked great to press the ball joint off, and the new one in. Only about three or four pieces of the kit was needed to do the job. Getting the old one out was much harder than putting the new one in. I had to tap the joint and LCA to force some pressure to make something happen when removing the joints. It took a bunch of pressure, and you don't want to break the tools or have anything fly out possibly hitting you. I torqued the tool until it had a bunch of pressure on the joint, and then lightly tapped the joint and/or arm from the side and underneath. The joint then moved slightly out, about 1/8" or so. Doing that again, torquing the tool very tight with a wrench, the next time the ball joint moved smoother and with less effort. After that it came right out.

So be very careful to start with using the press tools. Take your time getting it started.

 

[JonnyRock]

The problem with ball joint press is the rings are too short and the bolt bottoms out before it press the ball joint in. You can buy longer rings but you can't rent them that I've ever seen.

That's one thing I hate about loaner tools. They do not work on every car.

The kit that I borrowed from Schucks (also O'reilly and Kragen) had more than a dozen cups, rings, and plates to mix and match. It made setting everything up a cinch.

 

[storlied]

Seems there's all kind of kits to do this, with different parts.. I got motorcraft balljoints (and they came with zerks, is that odd?) Is there a certain part number for the kit that fit these perfectly?.. I'm gonna avoid beating these out. I have Shucks and Sears here.

 

[JonnyRock]

Seems there's all kind of kits to do this, with different parts.. I got motorcraft balljoints (and they came with zerks, is that odd?) Is there a certain part number for the kit that fit these perfectly?.. I'm gonna avoid beating these out. I have Shucks and Sears here.

Just go to Schucks. They have two kits. You want the big one. I don't recall the number, but the case is twice as big as the smaller one.

I'm not surprised that the Motorcraft have Zerks. Since you're buying them separately, Ford doesn't have to eat the extra cost like it would if it installed Zerk equipped ones from the factory. You'd be surprised at how much difference a couple of pennies can make on the production side of things when you're producing millions of vehicle.

 

[L2rocku2]

Reuse wheel hub nut & washer??

I'm getting ready to replace both lower ball joints today. Looking at the chilton manual, it states that the wheel hub nut and washer cannot be reused?? Is this correct?? Thanks for any replies!

 

[CDW6212R]

It can, but you shouldn't. Try to buy a new nut, but be careful because some axles have different threads on them. I have had Autozone axles which had different threads than the stock axles.

 

[L2rocku2]

Thanks CDW. I wouldn't even want to chance it!! I'm looking up autozone now to see if they have one. I just picked up the ball joints from checker. They carry MOOG. He looked it up and said they cannot get the nut!! I really hope I don't have to go to the dealership Thanks again!!

 

[L2rocku2]

Autozone does not carry the axel nut!! I guess it's to the dealership:frustrate

 

[L2rocku2]

Axle Nut

First I would like to say thanks to MountaineerGreen for the excellent write up & pics!!
Secondly, I read in my Chilton manual, the axle nut(s) must be replaced when removed. They are a 1 time use item.
However, I have 10 ford dealerships in my area and not 1 of them carry or stock axle nuts for my 2000 eb, awd!! They are a special order part @ just under $19 ea & a week to ship. 2 dealerships have told me I can reuse the originals I had no choice but to reuse them for now. I'm looking for replacements online just to be safe.

 

[storlied]

Many have re-used them without anything bad happening. The reason Ford suggests you replace is because they're of an oval shape instead of perfectly round.. obviously to get on that axle really tight.. and installing and removing will obviously re-shape the nut over time.. I guess it's either a safety precaution they took, or they just want more of our money.. who knows.. All I'm saying is many have done it with no problems, but there's no problem with you buying new ones.. I just hate seeing anyone pay upward to $20 for a bolt or nut... trust me.. I've had to... I'm just like "you've gotta be kidding me..." Hey, food for thought... maybe you can find this nut at a hardware store, or even a general auto parts store? When it comes down to it, there's nothing really special about this nut.

It can, but you shouldn't. Try to buy a new nut, but be careful because some axles have different threads on them. I have had Autozone axles which had different threads than the stock axles.

You would Think they would come with a nut? Much like balljoints... That's lame..

 

[gavin]

yes, it is an egg-shaped lock-nut.
the reason for one-time-use, is after it's installed the first time, it's not as much egg-shaped, therefore it could come off easier next time.

But, being torqued down to 200lbs/ft, I don't see it coming loose too easily.

if you want to be safe, just use a dab of locktite and call it good.

I've re-used my axle nuts about 3-4 times now without any issues.


edit: the Chilton manual also says to "replace lower control arm" if your lower ball joints are bad

 

[L2rocku2]

I hear ya storlied!! I checked with all the local parts chains. Napa, Autozone, Checker, etc. None of them can even order them!!! It's crazy I do feel a little better knowing that when I put them back on, I had to use the socket (32mm) and ratchet before the axle shaft was through the nut & all the way to the end!! Book said torque to 231 ft lbs, I went to 240