Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap! | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap!

My vote is to go with the high volume pump while you have it apart. That way you won't second guess or wish you would've gone that route later on.

What would his benefit be from the HV pump?




Keep it comin, seth! :D :cool:
 



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The machinist should consult with you about the clearances and what bearings to use. The oil and oil pump is often part of that conversation.

A high volume pump takes away horsepower, it's more stressful on the distributor gear, shaft etc. Those are really only for racing, when you plan for much higher rpm, a larger pan with more oil, and often looser clearances.
 






ok I'll ask him.

From what I was reading the racing guys acually prefer standard volume. For the horses.

Those engines turn so fast that they don't need the high volume.

The pressure with the high volume pump will still be the same. Cause the relief spring
keeps it that way. But it gets to that pressure faster than the standard. And has a higher pressure at idle. Which is of interest to me.

But il ask the machinist and get his input too.

And it seems recomsnded to go HV when planning a filter relocator. Which is necisary for me.
 






I have a standard oil pump from Melling, and the OEM oil cooler adapter with the normal filter there. I will have a remote bypass filter, and a prelube oil pump. I may end up needing close to seven quarts of oil, the bypass filter is close to 1.5 quarts large. Go with what your machinist recommends.
 






man these front dress brackets are a pain to clean.
 












thanks for the offer jt. But I've already cleaned one and tested the engine enamle color on it.

And Ive got to save all the money I can.


However that PB&J sounds tempting. What would over nite shipping on THAT be??!?
 






I think I may be able to cash in my built up vacation time for some engine cash.
 






Ok. does ANYBODY know the name of some one or an article covering the ACTUAL swap of a sbf v8 into a first generation explorer?

All I can find is bronco/ranger stuff. I know they are close but the broncos came with a different engine and radiatior and most of the rangers did too.
 






asp84 did it.
 






his profile says he has a 98.

At least he did last time he was on the site. Which was in 2006.
 






Joe deitz has a HO Stang 5.0L in his 93 hes not on here much though

My 88 Bronco II is pretty much identical to your Explorer, except your explorer has a bit more room for the radiator, other then that they are 99% the same

What are you looking for?
Also the oil pump in the GT-40P is already a high volume Ford version, as is the water pump, they are more then adequate...these engines are tough
 






his profile says he has a 98.

At least he did last time he was on the site. Which was in 2006.

Okay. Do a search with his username and hit the 'threads started by' box. Just because he isn't around anymore doesn't mean his useful info is gone too.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36262

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43325

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45135

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58364

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61054

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43728

Plus, I'm sure he's itching to come back to the site. :)
 






jaime: I'm looking at radiator possibilities at the moment. When you put the 4.0 in did you use a 4.0 radiator? And I didnot know that these motors came with a high volume. The junkyard broke mine so I'll have to get a melling replacment.

Section: thank you for the links. After I saw only the 98 on his profile I stopped looking. My mistake.

And I don't know how anyone could leave this site. Or this hobby. It's too much fun!
 






The stock oil pump will be a stock volume, stock pressure, no high volume or high pressure. The oil pump is not expensive, the Melling pump I have was under $30. The Ford unit will be higher most likely.
 






I want to know if I can fit the four oh radiator in with the v8.

You might say just try when you get to that point.

But the problem is my current radiator is leaking, so IF I can use a four oh rad I will be using a new one. But I don't want to buy a new one then find out it won't work and have to pay 400$ to Freakin advance adapters.
 






advance adapter radiator is smallish and expensive, although they did finally re-design it to a 2 core aluminum unit (I have one waiting to go in)

Be Cool radiator would be cheaper, check Summit and jegs once you have your dimensions

4.0L radiator will only fit if you cut apart your radiator support, with the engine driven fan there is no room for a radiator that does not fit uinder the radiator support. Even with 1 or two e fans its going to be TIGHT
Unless you move your engine back more :)

If I could do it over again I would simply remove the radiator support on my BII and the inner fenders as well, make the hood/grill/fenders/lights, etc all mount on a tube cage.....

that is where my BII is going eventually, so knowing this it would have been easy for me to cut up the stock radiator support and use the 4.0L radiator for the first gen truck..(similar to Rookieshooter) I avoided cutting my truck when I did it, I couldnt see that far in the future, so as you know I went with a $550 Ron Davis radiator that started leaking in 3 months... that radiator is still in my truck, still leaking.... but I will be runnig the advance adapters unit I picked up for a steal soon when I install my new winch....
I have 2 or 3 first gen 4.0L two row /auto trans radiators like new sitting around, I would love to use one of those when I do cut my truck up for ease of replacement.

So the answer is yes you can use the 4.0L radiator if you cut up your core support so it can move far forward.

Also the Gt-40P has a high volume water pump and oil pump according to Ford MS catalog, I guess this is compared to the other pushrod 5.0L's that came in the stangs...when they fit it under the hood of the ex it required all the cooling help they could get = water/filter oil cooler, high volume water pump, etc just my guess
 






thanks for the info jaime. I wasn't sure the 4.0 would be adequet cooling but I thought j had read of someone using it with good results.

I understand if you donr want to but, Would you mind giving me the demensuons in the AA rad you have? I might be able to hAve one made. If I'm lucky I might get it for cheap.

Thanks.
 






sure! I can measure it when I get home from work

its TINY

To me it looks like a skid steer loader radiator, I actually saved $$$ by going with teh Ron Davis unit over the conversion radiators I was looking at... LOL yeah right! saved $$ up front maybe. The Ron Davis unit I picked is a unit he already makes for Nascar applications using a Ford SB engine (hose pattern) so all they had to do was weld on some mounts for me and ship = $450 + shipping

on the cheap = use the 91-94 4.0L radiator, new they are under $130 in town (cut radiator support like rookie did)


if you look at Summit and jegs they offer many good aluminum radiators for el cheapo

The 5.0L runs COOLer then my 4.0L ever did
The 96-01 trucks had the same size radiator V6 or V8 I believe
the OHV 4.0L two row radiator will cool the V8 just fine

I researched my radiator choice for like 2 weeks, lots of phone calls, Ron Davis was cheapest by far, recommended by the dezert crowd, I just wish they would have stood behind their work.....
 



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So you gave em a call after it started to leak and they wouldn't back it?

sweet. I think I'll end up using the 4.0 rad for convenience and cost. But still get tgose measurements if you can! And I have few qualms(sp?) about hacking the support. There cheap to replace. I wonder why?

Just to keep you guys updated, I'm masking the heads and block to get ready for paint. Will post some pics when I lay on a coat.

Question: bad idea to paint exhaust port sealing surfaces? I don't really wantto paint the flange surface but all header flanges are different and I don't want to leave any bare spots to show or rust.
 






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